Why can't you use a 24 volt to 12 volt DC to DC converter? Cheap, and it would respect the battery loading.
Why can't you use a 24 volt to 12 volt DC to DC converter? Cheap, and it would respect the battery loading.
Success of the center tap will depend on how much you want to draw. Couple LED lights, maybe a modern radio? You will be fine and dandy. Big honkin subs and an amp? Probably not a good idea.
Good news is most of the modern stuff is actually pretty flexible.
What else would you want to run on 12V that would necessitate a 12V conversion?
In reply to NOHOME :
I believe I can. More research is required on the best way to implement this. I found several discussion threads from 24V diesel guys talking about how their converter created problems. I don't know enough to know if the issues are endemic or have to do with implementation. The most common seems to be draw issues. š¤· I'm trying to learn more by reading and asking; we will see where it goes.
In reply to 93gsxturbo :
Just a modern EFI engine...starter motor, injectors, fuel pump, ECU, ignition system, and maybe a couple interior accessories. If there's a good option for a reasonably-powerful, reasonably-torquey, reasonably-affordable, reasonably-clean powerplant that runs fairly smoothly and weighs less than 700-900 pounds, will drop in there, connect to the transmission, and run on 24V, I'd love to hear about it.
The Cummins R2.8 crate motor seems about as close as you are going to get. Modern turbo diesel, complete package, shipment weight is 752lbs including the crate, 161 hp and 310tq.
The 15BFT is the best swap in that chassis. It's mechanical, usually is 24V alternator, bolts to current engine mounts & Bellhousing.
The reason the current engine is overheating the cooling system is indirect injection, which puts lots of heat into the cylinder head, and even more so when turboed.
Upgrading to more cubic inches is free torque, direct injection is more torque & less heat rejection, 4 valve head stretches the torque out past 2500rpm.
Do eeet!
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