Ford 8.8 LSD Clutch Pack; Standard or Carbon Plates?

So for those of you with Ford 8.8s have any of you tried the carbon clutch plates?

Are they more durable than the standard plates?

I'm no help in the carbon plate comparison, but this is GRM... You could always try getting a second set of similarly worn down discs, and jam in a couple extra. LOL

Actually, there are those who claim grinding all the friction material off and running an all-metal stack (with enough additional discs) works great and wears like iron... err... Steel.

Carbon all day, run half of the recommended friction modifier and look into alternat stacking.  Those LSD's are for straight line grip with mostly equal traction and need all the help if you want to force one to corner.  Your options with a LSD in a Mustang seem to be try to keep it locked and drive it that way or upgrade it to one that can grip with different wheel speeds.  If you want the car to turn replace it with a Torsen or the like.  

Carbon clutches became standard in 05, previously only in Cobras?

Not necessarily more durable.  It's just like race clutches or performance brake pads it depends on the application.

My previous tow pig had a 460 and an 8.8LSD.  I purchased the 8.8 used from something with 150k and the clutches looked great.  I put another 150k on it and they still worked great.  If durability is your main concern, I don't think you really need to improve upon factory clutches.

In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :

True but tow pigs don't do much autox.  My Lemons 89 Mustang can eat a set of standard clutches in a couple of races, 7.5 carbon clutches are harder to find but have held up better.  Carbon clutches are Factory clutches in many applications, I believe there is a reason that they changed to them, they cost less than organic.

In reply to Tom1200 :

If you do end up going the Torsen or other, a stock LSD would suit me future needs for my 8.8 in the Merc. 
Keep me in mind, if it or any other VERY inexpensive ones come along! Thanks. 

I guess we're implying that Tom is using this for racing?  I mean, that's the obvious reason, but I just raised a flag that it depends on the application.

I wish I had a nickel for every time someone asked me to put "red" clutches in their TH400, and I tried to tell them that unless they're willing to do the hundreds of dollars of other upgrades to make line pressures to match, they'll be back in here with a fried 1-2 clutch pack in a week.

But, you're right... if he's racing

I mean, it also kind of depends on your chassis setup, I think.

I ass-u-me that the carbon clutches are a kind of softer engagement, that need a bit of heat (slippage) in them before they bite?  That would pair well with things like a torque arm and Panhard bar, that helps keep both tires loaded more evenly, so you can have a limited slip that doesn't hurt turn in as much.

If you are keeping the suspension old school "a suspension that can't move can't do anything wrong" then you may want the regular friction packs because that setup really leans on the clutches to work.

OTOH, if you still have drum brakes, it is really really easy to swap the clutches and stuff.  You just remove the wheels, drums, and diff cover, then remove the differential pin/C clips/S spring, slide the axles out to get room to get the side gears out.  Clutches are all behind the side gears.  Probably take a half hour to swap stuff around with practice.