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tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/25/10 10:00 a.m.

I am planning a new exhaust for the turbobrick - going with 3" I think, seems big, but it's what the turbobrickers generally use - and of course I am trying to do this on peanuts, but not the kind that make me weld the whole thing from scratch, either. The over-the-axle part is what is prompting this post. I could have a muffler shop mimic the original with 3", but an aftermarket piece, or buy the stock one, at 2 1/4" inches. My idea is to buy two stockers (cheap, they are) and y pipe them together aft of the 3" muffler outlet. Either that of the fancy schmancy dual output mufflers, but that's unlikely to have the correct sizing at nearly the same pricing.

Is this stupid?

93celicaGT2
93celicaGT2 SuperDork
3/25/10 10:22 a.m.

Are you worried at all about this being legal?

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/25/10 10:48 a.m.

I would go with the 3".. simpler is always better.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/25/10 12:01 p.m.
93celicaGT2 wrote: Are you worried at all about this being legal?

I live in South Carolina. I could rip all of the exhaust out short of the downpipe, make it an up-pipe and run it through the hood, and nobody would care.

Simpler does have its benefits. Cheaper does too, though, I guess I'll have to price out someone who can bend this stuff for me.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog HalfDork
3/25/10 12:19 p.m.

You can get just the bends from "thelostartof" on turbobricks and source the muffler and straight piping locally iirc. he also sells whole systems. I'm toying with the idea of a 3" downpipe, muffler, and side exit before the axle myself.

93celicaGT2
93celicaGT2 SuperDork
3/25/10 12:21 p.m.

Do what i did. Run it right out the side of the car. Don't have to worry about the bends over the axle or whatever.

If you don't want it exiting in front of you, then go ahead and run your downpipe, and dump it out the side BEFORE the rear axle. Simple. Maybe 2 bends at most, free flowing, and it won't be THAT loud.

I pretty much have your extreme situation exhaust that you just described, though.

I don't have a downpipe. It comes off the turbo, and makes a straight shot bee-line out the bumper. No bends. Just a 3 foot length of 3" piping boom-hole goodness.

It's surprisingly quiet inside the car. Probably the quietest car i own. While cruising that is. It's pretty brutally loud when you're really railing on it, though i think that's more a product of the wastegate dump than the actual exhuast.

93celicaGT2
93celicaGT2 SuperDork
3/25/10 12:21 p.m.
Junkyard_Dog wrote: You can get just the bends from "thelostartof" on turbobricks and source the muffler and straight piping locally iirc. he also sells whole systems. I'm toying with the idea of a 3" downpipe, muffler, and side exit before the axle myself.

Great minds think alike.

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/25/10 12:23 p.m.

you don't mention what turbobrick you own.. is it possible to do like BMW and run the exhaust UNDER the diff in the back rather than up and over?

turboswede
turboswede GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/25/10 12:34 p.m.

You could also look at take offs from a turbo-diesel pickup.

Irish1
Irish1 New Reader
3/25/10 1:20 p.m.

Muffler-wise, I ran a Flowmaster 3 inch inlet/exit on my 85 VERY-modded 745iT. Fit great, and all the track guys thought I'd installed a small-block Chevy based on car speed and sound. I had the exhaust shop cut and paste the proper over the axle bent pipe. The Flowmaster was fun, sounded great, worked great. TurboBricks is a good resource. Craig Hansen at HansenRacing in Chico, CA is a great shop for maximizing the potential in these 2.3 liter Swedish motors and the 7 Series suspension.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/25/10 2:17 p.m.

Keep in mind it's a wagon (solid axle) so if I have kids in the third row, I don't want the exhaust exiting forwards of them. The solid axle says I can't go under it (not realistically, anyway), and I was trying to avoid paying up for thelostartof stuff, but I have already asked him for a quote (no response yet, but I don't expect cheap) in case that worked out nicely enough.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog HalfDork
3/25/10 2:24 p.m.
tuna55 wrote: Keep in mind it's a wagon (solid axle) so if I have kids in the third row, I don't want the exhaust exiting forwards of them. The solid axle says I can't go under it (not realistically, anyway), and I was trying to avoid paying up for thelostartof stuff, but I have already asked him for a quote (no response yet, but I don't expect cheap) in case that worked out nicely enough.

DP is $90 and axle pipe $110 iirc. No matter what way you go you're looking at $500 for a full exhaust (with a cat). Just depends on how much you want to spend all at once.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/25/10 5:30 p.m.
Junkyard_Dog wrote:
tuna55 wrote: Keep in mind it's a wagon (solid axle) so if I have kids in the third row, I don't want the exhaust exiting forwards of them. The solid axle says I can't go under it (not realistically, anyway), and I was trying to avoid paying up for thelostartof stuff, but I have already asked him for a quote (no response yet, but I don't expect cheap) in case that worked out nicely enough.
DP is $90 and axle pipe $110 iirc. No matter what way you go you're looking at $500 for a full exhaust (with a cat). Just depends on how much you want to spend all at once.

Betcha I can do it for nearly half that - that's the goal. No cat, though. I hate cute puppies and all that.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/26/10 1:46 p.m.

He wants $175 for the downpipe and $75 for the over the axle. Eeuroparts has the stock over the axle for $15 and they have a 10% off sale now.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog HalfDork
3/26/10 2:07 p.m.
tuna55 wrote: Betcha I can do it for nearly half that - that's the goal. No cat, though. I hate cute puppies and all that.

Don't overlook the hidden costs: clamps, hangers, ER visits, etc. that goes with fabbing it yourself. Keep in mind if you upgrade to a conical flange turbo later you'll need a custom DP too.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/26/10 2:18 p.m.
Junkyard_Dog wrote:
tuna55 wrote: Betcha I can do it for nearly half that - that's the goal. No cat, though. I hate cute puppies and all that.
Don't overlook the hidden costs: clamps, hangers, ER visits, etc. that goes with fabbing it yourself. Keep in mind if you upgrade to a conical flange turbo later you'll need a custom DP too.

I hear ya

I am a bit confused, however, because I don't really understand the different types of turbo flanges that exist. I have no idea, honestly. I won't be putting in this system until I am ready to swap to a 15G turbo, anyway. I am OK with cheapie clamps, I can weld, and I have good health insurance. I dunno, I just can't stand the thought of $550.

m4ff3w
m4ff3w GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/26/10 4:28 p.m.

You currently have a conical flange. You can use your current hot side with a 15g cold side, so you wouldn't need a new down pipe.

Though the angled and flat flanges flow better.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/26/10 8:37 p.m.

So what flange does a 15G pulloff (from an 850) have normally?

I'd be wanting to replace the downpipe because of diameter, not because of flange compatibility.

Can anyone offer a pic or description of the (apparently) three types?

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog HalfDork
3/26/10 9:08 p.m.
tuna55 wrote: So what flange does a 15G pulloff (from an 850) have normally? I'd be wanting to replace the downpipe because of diameter, not because of flange compatibility. Can anyone offer a pic or description of the (apparently) three types?

I'll chack my box o' turbos tomorrow since we shopuld have the same stuff. To much beer to risk the stairs tonight. Rogue 2006 Imperial stout FTW!

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/26/10 10:42 p.m.

Back to the exhaust, even if I purchase the DP in 3", and run a straight 3" pipe from there back, with the muffler in there somewhere (amazon has a magnaflow sale). I can T off at the end into dual 2 1/4" pipes and run parallel stock over the axle jobs ($30 for the pair) with the muffler sections replaced with straight pipes (cheapo part store stuff). This would be able to reuse all stock mounts, and I still should be under $300. If I fabricate the DP with bends and time, I could get even cheaper. The cross sectional are is similar, and even slightly bigger for the dual 2 1/4"ers. Why not?

m4ff3w
m4ff3w GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/27/10 12:26 a.m.

Angled/Flat/Conical

The change from conical to flat was some time in '96 and the change to angled was sometime in '99.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/28/10 1:31 p.m.

I am still not sure that I understand the difference between flat and angled in that picture. From what I can see, there is a little donut on the outlet on the conical one. What are the stock flanges on the 850 15G? What do the corresponding downpipe attachments look like?

Thanks

-Brian

m4ff3w
m4ff3w GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/28/10 2:40 p.m.

It depends on the year for the 850, it could be either conical (early) or flat (changed sometime in 96).

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo Reader
3/28/10 9:19 p.m.

3" Diameter flows a lot more than dual 1.5" diameter. And its also much easier to fab up.

I second the idea of finding a used take-off stock diesel exhaust. They are all around 3" diameter on modern diesel trucks, and usually made from low-grade stainless steel so they dont rust too fast.

tuna55
tuna55 HalfDork
3/29/10 7:48 p.m.
93gsxturbo wrote: 3" Diameter flows a lot more than dual 1.5" diameter. And its also much easier to fab up. I second the idea of finding a used take-off stock diesel exhaust. They are all around 3" diameter on modern diesel trucks, and usually made from low-grade stainless steel so they dont rust too fast.

I appreciate the diesel idea.

The stock Volvo diameter is 2.25" - two of those flows slightly more than one 3". I can't imagine it being easier if I can use all of the old Volvo hangers and just weld a strap to hold the one set of pipes to the other...

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