The thing is with all this, while these are all good maintenance items to replace, you have an unproven junkyard engine. Keep in mind that you may put this thing in and it might be no good. So be careful what you spend your money on. Things like an intake gasket set will just be gone if thats the case.
That is a good point to keep in mind. I may hold off on the intake gaskets until after I've done the coolant flush and see how it runs. Oil pan gasket is getting done regardless since I want to take a look at the crank & rods (ideally I'll be able to do this before pulling the replacement engine...).
When you do the oil pan, assuming you have the requisite torque wrench, pop off a few bearing caps and have a look. This will tell you a lot about whether or not you got a good one.
On oil pressure senders, you might want to replumb that with an easy access test port, as GM oil pressure gauges are wildly inaccurate and often read low(but not always).
Replace the distributor- the whole dizzy. On my wife's 2000 Jimmy the dizzy developed a crack (it's plastic) where the screws go (they thread into plastic) and would throw a misfire code. Napa sells a replacement dizzy for like $80 that has the distributor cap holes reinforced with a brass insert.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse:
Which one? There's a reman, 481639 that goes for $97.99 with a $55.56 core. There's also a new one (DA101) that goes for $168.99. I can get the reman down to $80, but that's at my store.
Or, when you put the distributor cam on, use the old screws instead of the new ones, since the Loctite on the new screws is enough extra OD to crack the distributor. Or just don't overtighten the screws.
Seems like the vast majority of cracked distributors are due to misapplication of a T20.
Esoteric Nixon wrote: In reply to volvoclearinghouse: Which one? There's a reman, 481639 that goes for $97.99 with a $55.56 core. There's also a new one (DA101) that goes for $168.99. I can get the reman down to $80, but that's at my store.
We got the reman, I recall it being under $100. it had the brass inserts for the cap screws.
The distro on the original engine looks to be in good shape. The one on the one from the yard isn't usable though- I should have been smart and swapped a better condition one on to it.
Current mental debate is whether it's worth pulling the heads and having them hot-tanked and checked over before putting the replacement engine back into the car. Pulling them off if there ends up being something wrong with them after putting the engine into the car will NOT be a fun exercise. New HG set & bolts would be about $40, I'm guessing the head shop work if there's nothing wrong would end up being about $60... but not sure the cost & extra time will be worth it or not.
I guess I'll see how things look once I get the intake off to clean it and replace the gaskets...
RealMiniParker wrote:belteshazzar wrote:I should've included "with universal joint and extensions". It beats the hell out of trying to do it from the top. But at long as he's got it sitting in the bed of a truck, it won't get any easier than that!RealMiniParker wrote:IDK man, that steering shaft is still in the worst possible place.belteshazzar wrote: the middle spark plug on the drivers side is a huge bastard. replace with something very long lived.Go through the wheel well. Easy-peasy.
Honestly, I couldn't even figure out how to take that plug out through the wheel well because of the steering shaft. At the last minute I had to change plans and leave the manifold attached to the exhaust and was completely unable to get past the steering shaft to the plug. When the manifold wedged up against the plug and wouldn't let the engine move any further I smacked the manifold near the plug a few times with a hammer to break off the ceramic and free the engine.
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