OK, I refuse to have a ‘learn me’ thread, but I want to konw the possibilities for the 2nd Gen (92-97) Probe?
I drove a fair number of them when they were still new both on the street, autocross and even on the track, but htat was 12-18 years ago. What I recall is they had excellent driving manors for a front driver. The throttle was amazingly Sharpe, great tip in response, no sluggishness. Also I recall that if you weren’t ham fisted they were very neutral cars, they didn’t suffer the typical FWD under steer unless you got too greedy with the right foot. They were very popular G Stock autocross cars as a result. 160hp and lb/ft but quite high in the rev range wasn’t bad for the day, but I remember them being a bit porky.
So, what’s their capability today? As per my ‘what car’ thread I’m looking for an all-round toy that can handle autocross, track days, rally cross and TSD’s with the minimum of changes (wheels/tires/set up, not hardware) between each discipline. So how do these things work today with decent shocks, a rear sway bar but at or around stock ride height?
How tough are the engines and how do they respond to intakes, headers, exhaust etc? I seem to recall the cam belts are an engine out job? I do recall the one time I helped a friend change the belts we pulled they engine, but we were doing other things as well, pump, HEGO’s etc so that may have dictated the decision to pull the engine rather than necessity.
What about the trans? My memory says the shifter was a little vague, is this something that can be cured with a decent shifter or is it inherent? Also what about an LSD? A FWD ‘toy’ must have the possibility of adding an LSD for not ridiculous money, even if it’s not for a year or so? I assume it’s not like an MTX75 where you can get a Torsen for $500, but what’s available?
Adrian_Thompson wrote:
OK, I refuse to have a ‘learn me’ thread, but I want to konw the possibilities for the 2nd Gen (92-97) Probe?
I drove a fair number of them when they were still new both on the street, autocross and even on the track, but htat was 12-18 years ago. What I recall is they had excellent driving manors for a front driver. The throttle was amazingly Sharpe, great tip in response, no sluggishness. Also I recall that if you weren’t ham fisted they were very neutral cars, they didn’t suffer the typical FWD under steer unless you got too greedy with the right foot. They were very popular G Stock autocross cars as a result. 160hp and lb/ft but quite high in the rev range wasn’t bad for the day, but I remember them being a bit porky.
You have a good memory. 
So, what’s their capability today? As per my ‘what car’ thread I’m looking for an all-round toy that can handle autocross, track days, rally cross and TSD’s with the minimum of changes (wheels/tires/set up, not hardware) between each discipline. So how do these things work today with decent shocks, a rear sway bar but at or around stock ride height?
Not bad... I would definitely spring for some higher rate springs, maybe some ground controls so you can try to keep stock height. The stock spring rates are pretty weak.
How tough are the engines and how do they respond to intakes, headers, exhaust etc? I seem to recall the cam belts are an engine out job? I do recall the one time I helped a friend change the belts we pulled they engine, but we were doing other things as well, pump, HEGO’s etc so that may have dictated the decision to pull the engine rather than necessity.
They're tough, if cared for. Assuming you're talking about Angry's car, i wouldn't worry about it.
Cam belt can be done with engine in, but berkeley that.
They respond fairly well to the basic breathing mods, but don't expect huge gains. Just awesome awesome sounds and maybe 10-15hp. You can get a little more interesting and throw in some ZE cams and a chipped ECU and get some better gains.
What about the trans? My memory says the shifter was a little vague, is this something that can be cured with a decent shifter or is it inherent? Also what about an LSD? A FWD ‘toy’ must have the possibility of adding an LSD for not ridiculous money, even if it’s not for a year or so? I assume it’s not like an MTX75 where you can get a Torsen for $500, but what’s available?
Shifter should feel good... if it doesn't, it needs bushings. MFactory makes a helical LSD for it... runs in the $750-$800 range. Other than that, you're paying out the nose for a Quaife.
Keep a spare trans on hand if you're going to be beating the snot out of the car. While the internet has blown this out of proportion, the transmission is NOT strong, no matter how you slice it. On the plus side, the MFactory diff WILL make it stronger.
I had one once, a black all-stock 2nd-gen GT V6/5-speed. Drove a lot nicer than my stock 89 Turbo GT I had sold to buy it for and "felt" faster. Very roomy hatch. I sold it to a good buddy, who I think still has it some 8-9 years later. Never raced it or anything, but fond memories nonetheless.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
Assuming you're talking about Angry's car...
lol, 1st thing that popped into my head.
Nothing to add...
move along, move along
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
You have a good memory.
Phew, Alzheimer’s hasn’t set in yet!
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
Not bad... I would definitely spring for some higher rate springs, maybe some ground controls so you can try to keep stock height. The stock spring rates are pretty weak.
HHmm, I wonder if there are cheap-o ebay specials out there for coil overs. What about camber?
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
They're tough, if cared for. Assuming you're talking about Angry's car, i wouldn't worry about it.
What on earth makes you think I’m considering Angry’s car!
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
They respond fairly well to the basic breathing mods, but don't expect huge gains. Just awesome awesome sounds and maybe 10-15hp. You can get a little more interesting and throw in some ZE cams and a chipped ECU and get some better gains.
Jumping 1,000 miles ahead of myself and unlikely to ever happen, but how much are cams and ECU and what are the gains?
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
Shifter should feel good... if it doesn't, it needs bushings. MFactory makes a helical LSD for it... runs in the $750-$800 range. Other than that, you're paying out the nose for a Quaife.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
I guess most old cars need shifter bushings anyway. So the smart thing is to find a used trans and build up with LSD then swap in. What goes on them? Something replaceable or terminal ‘Sploshion?
Keep a spare trans on hand if you're going to be beating the snot out of the car. While the internet has blown this out of proportion, the transmission is NOT strong, no matter how you slice it. On the plus side, the MFactory diff WILL make it stronger.
There's cheapo specials out there for coilovers. Get ebay sleeves and throw some Swift or QA1 or whatever springs on them. Or... just get ground controls, they're pretty cheap.
Camber, camber bolts or plates. KSport sells plates, and there's a way to get Cuscos on there. If you want cheaper, you're looking at custom, or doing some mild modifications to fit some FC RX7 plates. (Fronts.)
ZE cams usually go in the $100-$200 range, chipped ECUs can be found for $100 or under. You could also do a MAF conversion out of a late 626, which is good for some power and driveability.
In terms of trans... 3rd gear will blow out, they'll shatter, ring gear lets go. (They're riveted on. It's stupid.) Luckily, the MFactory replaces the rivets with bolts.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
There's cheapo specials out there for coilovers. Get ebay sleeves and throw some Swift or QA1 or whatever springs on them. Or... just get ground controls, they're pretty cheap.
Camber, camber bolts or plates. KSport sells plates, and there's a way to get Cuscos on there. If you want cheaper, you're looking at custom, or doing some mild modifications to fit some FC RX7 plates. (Fronts.)
ZE cams usually go in the $100-$200 range, chipped ECUs can be found for $100 or under. You could also do a MAF conversion out of a late 626, which is good for some power and driveability.
In terms of trans... 3rd gear will blow out, they'll shatter, ring gear lets go. (They're riveted on. It's stupid.) Luckily, the MFactory replaces the rivets with bolts.
Your E36 M3ting me! $300 for cams and ECU ?!?!?! that's cheap, what are the gains.
What forums can I investigate Probes without getting a headach and loosing IQ points faster than the Titanic sank?
Adrian_Thompson wrote:
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
There's cheapo specials out there for coilovers. Get ebay sleeves and throw some Swift or QA1 or whatever springs on them. Or... just get ground controls, they're pretty cheap.
Camber, camber bolts or plates. KSport sells plates, and there's a way to get Cuscos on there. If you want cheaper, you're looking at custom, or doing some mild modifications to fit some FC RX7 plates. (Fronts.)
ZE cams usually go in the $100-$200 range, chipped ECUs can be found for $100 or under. You could also do a MAF conversion out of a late 626, which is good for some power and driveability.
In terms of trans... 3rd gear will blow out, they'll shatter, ring gear lets go. (They're riveted on. It's stupid.) Luckily, the MFactory replaces the rivets with bolts.
Your E36 M3ting me! $300 for cams and ECU ?!?!?! that's cheap, what are the gains.
What forums can I investigate Probes without getting a headach and loosing IQ points faster than the Titanic sank?
Well... the cams aren't anything crazy, but they're better than DE cams. I'd say gains with that stuff would be a good 20-30hp. Couple that with the right intake manifold (can't remember off hand which one you want, i can find out.), and choose the rest of your breathing stuff wisely, 180-190whp isn't out of the question.
Aftermarket cams (regrinds) are usually in the $300-$500 range and offer bigger gains, but usually aren't QUITE as happy running stock ECUs.
There's really no forums available that won't make you feel sorry for the state of humanity, unfortunately.
MX6.com is the best of the 3. (Probetalk and performanceprobe being the other two.)
Probetalk has the best FS section.
Take FULL advantage of PT's FS section. There's NO demand for parts for these cars and there's a lot of people parting their cars out these days, so you can put together something awesome for CHEAP.
How about ground clearance for rallycross and dirt TSD's? Do you need a skid plate?
Adrian_Thompson wrote:
How about ground clearance for rallycross and dirt TSD's? Do you need a skid plate?
Can't hurt, but i believe the ohio guys had/have a probe they use as a loaner for Rallycross and i think it's held up ok unless terribly abused.
We had a KLZE swapped Probe in for developing an MSPNP tunable ECU; it managed to get a fair amount of respect from our tech team (I'm the only one here who was a fan of Probes before that one showed up). We were all impressed with how it had managed to still feel like it was tightly screwed together after 17 years, and the KLZE made some seriously good power.
Duke
PowerDork
10/25/12 2:05 p.m.
It's a mid-90s / early-00s sporty Ford product, which means it is going to have the most uncomfortable factory seats outside of a Waffle House.
I've never found a Ford car of that era that I could sit in for longer than 20 minutes, and the sportier the car, the shorter the duration.
yamaha
Dork
10/25/12 2:16 p.m.
My 90's fords have decently comfortable seats.....although, they are sporty, just not a 2 door named after something either being sent to the glue factory or what you don't want to see at the doctors office. 
I agree with you on that count though, I'm glad my winter beater('01 fukus) seats are somewhat comfortable...
It is called a Probe. Isn't that an automatic pitfall?
Adrian_Thompson wrote:
How about ground clearance for rallycross and dirt TSD's? Do you need a skid plate?
You may not need a skid plate but you'll want one. I would protect the brake lines and leading edge of the gas tank.
Duke wrote:
It's a mid-90s / early-00s sporty Ford product, which means it is going to have the most uncomfortable factory seats outside of a Waffle House.
I've *never* found a Ford car of that era that I could sit in for longer than 20 minutes, and the sportier the car, the shorter the duration.
I maintain that my 2000 SVT Contour had the best seats of any car I've ever owned, at least from a comfort standpoint.
Duke wrote:
It's a mid-90s / early-00s sporty Ford product, which means it is going to have the most uncomfortable factory seats outside of a Waffle House.
I've *never* found a Ford car of that era that I could sit in for longer than 20 minutes, and the sportier the car, the shorter the duration.
suck it bitch, it's a mazda with a blue oval so it does not have escort lx seats in it.
assuming the OP is asking about Angry's car, it's got power up / down / front / back, as well as power lumbar and side bolster adjustments.
The Probe GT seats are good in the 2nd gens.
Duke
PowerDork
10/25/12 3:08 p.m.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
The Probe GT seats are good in the 2nd gens.
Not the ones I've ridden in - they ALL felt like they had a piece of angle iron across the back, right above my kidneys.
Duke wrote:
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
The Probe GT seats are good in the 2nd gens.
Not the ones I've ridden in - they ALL felt like they had a piece of angle iron across the back, right above my kidneys.
Weird, my dad is 50, and about the pickiest guy when it comes to car seats, unless they're mostly flat with lumbar support, and he LOVES the stockers in my 94 Probe. He thinks the inflatable seat bolsters are brilliant.
