As advised by a friend, im installing Diodes inline in the fuel injectors. My question pertains to the R39 variable potentiometer... if i turn it, will it adjust realtime or will it need power cycled off? Its killin me not havin this thing up n running in almost a year... help???
Diodes inline with the injectors? What issue were you trying to solve with that?
R39 in the DIYPNP (If you have some other MS variant this time, let me know...) is an analog device and as such it takes effect immediately.
Hi Matt, Daniel Sartin here. I'm the one withe the 88-89 DIYPnP in the F2T powered MX-3. I let a couple fellows at the $2012 Challenge look over my daalog files, and they believe i have noise causing the problems im experiencing. The problem itself has the exact symptoms of the NipponDenso Ignition trouble of the Ecu losing #1 cylinder position. It barely runs, wont rev past 2k, sync loss reason 11&17 so fast you can barely read them.
In reply to dansxr2:
For those who are too lazy to go look them up.
11 = too few teeth before second trigger 17 = didn't received the second trigger when expected in wheel mode
What kind of sensors are you running for cam and crank? Sorry I'm not familiar with that PnP variant.
If you have noise feedback to your ignition pickup a diode on the injector will not likely help. What MS system? (I, II or 3?) What board configuration/revision? (2.2, 3.0, 3.57?) What car? Low or high impedance injectors?
If low-I then you need a capacitor across the driving FETs to calm the noise.
It is also a good idea to build a simple noise filter on the cam/crank sensors. This is just a few resistors.
If you are running a V3 or V3.57 you can adjust R52 and R56 to drop the noise. Look for the trigger logger and noise spikes. An oscilloscope will also help here.
I had a similar issue with trigger drop-out around 2500 rpm and had to build the noise filter into the cam/crank signal wires. Yes, everything is shielded and grounded properly. problem is a feedback from the cam sensor.
Wow... You guys are awesome! I'm running a DIYPnP for a 88-89 MX-6 GT (F2T). Here is the kit I bought : http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-52pin-unassembled-kit-p-390.html I'm running the stock Dizzy (Turbo) It misses and backfires anytime its running on the DIYPnP right now. I'm about to go over to my garage and I'll do some datalogs.
The Board is a DiyPnP 1.5 built off MS2 Extra i believe
If you're running diodes in parallel with the injectors, that is going to cause some unwanted behavior, the injectors will hang open MUCH longer on each pulse and make it very tough to tune.
Its not letting me load the firmware.... :-/
Make sure the baud rate for the serial port is correct.
redownloaded the firmware and reinstalled and now it worked. I'll do a datalog and post tomorrow.
Downloaded the lastest firmware 3.2.4 and heading to garage, Anyone care to send me a email adddress to look at my Log files? The Person Who helps me get this beast running shall expect a nice complimentary gift... ;-)
Once uploaded with firmware 3.2.4 i load the 90-92mx-6 gt MSQ file and get an error sayin there is z conflict with TachOut??? Plz help...
dansxr2 wrote: Once uploaded with firmware 3.2.4 i load the 90-92mx-6 gt MSQ file and get an error sayin there is z conflict with TachOut??? Plz help...
Don't know if this means anything, but 88-89 and 90-92 gauge clusters are NOT swappable due to differences in wiring/electronics.
The wiring harnesses are different as well. I believe tach signal goes on a different wire to the ECU between Gen1A and Gen1B.
Sooo... i'm not real surprised that you'd have an issue with concerning tach. (ASSuming i have any idea what that error means)
I really don't know how much help a 90-92 base file is going to be for you.
Matt can you give me input on this? I have data logs from this evening of it running.... just misses and back fires like crazy, and barely revs to 2k rpm..
Can you even read the tach in the logs? Do you have that one program on your laptop that has all the gauges on it output by ms?
Yep I have Tuner Studio.
These seem like the exact symptoms I'm experiencing...
"Nippondenso signals losing sync at a narrow, low RPM range This problem happens most often on Nippondenso ignitions and other ignitions where you have a 24 (or 12) tooth crank wheel and a 1 tooth cam wheel. It can happen to Toyota, Mazda, and Honda vehicles. The problem is that the ECU loses sync at a specific RPM range, often in the 1000 to 2500 RPM area. This may be accompanied by the timing jumping.
What is happening is that one active edge of the second trigger is very close to the crankshaft position signal, happening almost at the same time. As the signal can shift when the timing increases, the second trigger goes from happening before the primary trigger to happening after it, and the ECU gets confused about which one of the teeth on the crankshaft position sensor is the #1 tooth. This typically gives Lost Sync Reason 11 and 17 in data logs.
To solve this, you will need to find out exactly which edge you need to trigger on. First change Ignition Input Capture from Rising Edge to Falling Edge, or vice versa. If that does not work, experiment with changing the active edge of the second trigger. Usually, only one of the four possible combinations of Ignition Input Capture and Second Trigger Active Edge settings will rev out cleanly.
Note that you must reset the Tooth #1 angle any time you change either one of these two settings."
In reply to dansxr2:
Is your cam trigger coming from a former distributor? If so 2 questions. 1) does it have some sort of internal advance? 2) How is it set relative to TDC?
The message from TS sounds like your cam trigger angle is changing with RPM and the edge you are triggering from moves across a crank trigger edge you are also using.
Both cam and crank position sensors are in the factory distributor. (G1 & G2) and a 24 tooth Ne wheel. 88-89 is hardly supported compared to the 90-92 cars. How can I correct this issue if it is the problem?
This may sound really dump but if the cam and crank sensors are both in the distribuitor the both are really cam sensors and you should only need the input from one pf them to make the motor run. Or am i reading this wrong.
dean1484 wrote: This may sound really dump but if the cam and crank sensors are both in the distribuitor the both are really cam sensors and you should only need the input from one pf them to make the motor run. Or am i reading this wrong.
My bet is the signal is similar to the miatas which have both the "cam" and "crank" signal coming from the CAS on the back of the cam. One signal is a 4 hole, the other 2. the 4 hole gets pushed to crank input, and the 2 into the cam input even though they're both pulled off the camshaft.
Why are there two different ways to locate the cam and the crank? Variable Valve Timing?
RossD wrote: Why are there two different ways to locate the cam and the crank? Variable Valve Timing?
Heh, no. This is a single cam 12 valve dinosaur of a motor. There's really nothing special or weird about it which is why this is somewhat stumping me.
I'm still not sure i like the 90-92 vs. 88-89 thing, but the Nippon Denso ignition stuff seems to be exactly what's happening from the description.
What about ditching one of the sensors? Ford's EDIS only uses one...
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