Has anyone here C-notched or Z’d a hot rod frame?

Has anyone here C-notched or Z’d a hot rod frame?
 

I have some ideas for a potential project, but I'd like to see how others have approached this idea first. 

I've Z'd an F-100 front clip.

I've C-notched a C10 and a D21.

I've step-notched another C10.

There are lots of online examples....

I think maschinenbau did on the rice rod build:https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/the-rice-rod-31-model-a-pickup-with-a-2jz/123261/page1/

Check out minitruck builds, very common proceedure in that scene.

Ok, help me out. These are abbreviations I am not familiar with. 
 

What is C-notching?  What is Z-d?

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

I guess Step Notching is the idea that I'm thinking about, but I didn't know the term. I was picturing angles not curves though.

Imagine a six inch tall frame with a six inch tall box section welded to the top of it with wide A-shaped plates welded to the outside, and then cut out below the crossbar of the A.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

They are methods to lower hotrods.

Imaging the back half of a truck with a straight frame. For a C-notch, you weld on reinforcement plates and then cut a C-shaped notch that allows the rear axle to move up "into" the frame when the suspension is compressed. It gives you a little more upward travel.

With Z-ing, you cut that frame in half and then one half is welded back on a few inches higher, with reinforcement. The results are similar, but less elegant and probably weaker in most cases, expecially with an extreme drop.

Example: Z'd front and rear

In reply to Woody (Forum Supportum) :

Gotcha. Thanks. 
 

I knew the method, just didn't know the name

Woody (Forum Supportum) said:

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

I guess Step Notching is the idea that I'm thinking about, but I didn't know the term. I was picturing angles not curves though.

Imagine a six inch tall frame with a six inch tall box section welded to the top of it with wide A-shaped plates welded to the outside, and then cut out below the crossbar of the A.

 

There was (I think) a parking lot build with a Chevy truck that had that before the parking lot.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

It's the same method you use to run 6" drain pipes right through 2x10 floor joists...........

Brad was z-notched to keep the front steering geometry close to stock. 

DeadSkunk (Warren) said:

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

It's the same method you use to run 6" drain pipes right through 2x10 floor joists...........

Plumbers are the bane of my existence. 

You bought that T didn't you? Guess that pic I posted had more effect than I expected.

An angular step notch is more common, a curved step notch like I did is stronger.

A c-notch is profoundly weaker than the original frame; you really want to maintain original frame thickness over the notch. But, what are your options?

If you're doing an old-school hotrod, I'd be Z'ing all the way, that's probably what you want to be doing. Make sure you use fish plates to reinforce the weld.

In reply to Appleseed :

I did not. 
 

But there's this truck...

What I would like to do is remove the giant rear spring pack, shorten the wheelbase and mount a lighter duty rear axle with more room to travel upward. 
 

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

I've step-notched another C10.

Did you buy those step plates or did you make them yourself?

I made them myself.  Cardstock pattern, 3/16" plate, plasma cutter, freehand.