Header coating?

Coating a header with anti seize. Anyone on here ever heard of this or tried it?

Sounds plausible, but...

"when you apply the anti seize use either a cotton diaper , a cotton t-shirt or those paint applicators with a foam applicator pad . when applying the anti-seize wipe the anti-seize onto the header almost like you're applying shoe polish to you shoes and completely cover the header and let it air dry for about a 1/2 hour and then re-apply a 2nd coat .next with a garbage bag large enough to cover the header with the open end at the header flange and then carefully install the header onto the motor , once it's installed remove the garbage bag .next start the motor up and wait for the header to start smoking then shut the engine off for 10-15 minutes .repeat this process of starting the engine and waiting to the header starts smoking then turning the engine off 4 times .after about the 4th time you notice the smoke diminishing and that will indicate that the anti-seize coating has melted into the pores of the header tubes effectively curing the anti seize

now about every year or so you'll notice some slight discoloration of the header tubes nearest the cyl head ports . just re-apply more anti-seize to that area and the header will look brand new once again"

interesting.. how much do you need?

Not a clue, but I thought it might be worth a try. I came across this on a GMC Motorhome forum. I figured if anyone had tried it you guys would have.

I might have to try it on the lawnmower muffler and see if it works.

I also thought it might be a cheap easy detailing trick for a challenge car.

I am going to do it on my Classic 900. The stock header to turbo is looking sad

interesting but headers can be hard to get to. so if this has to be re-done every year that could get to be tricky.

interesting concept however. messy too

I might just do the parts I can see when I do mine. No sense in doing the underside

... and that will indicate that the anti-seize coating has melted into the pores of the header tubes ... Hmm, I never realized that header tube metal was porous. ;)

Anyway, I used have a Spitfire that 'self coated' the header, only it was with engine oil on the tubes ...

Wait, is this anything like seasoning a cast iron skillet? This is great, you could wrap strips of bacon around the headers, drive, and then have breakfast.
(hmmmm, bacon)

Carter

I doubt actual tube headers are porous, but I am sure that the cast iron ones that come on most cars are.

All metal is porous to some extent. Including steel header tubing.

Really? Bzzzt!!

From www.merriam-webster.com

po·rous adj \ˈpȯr-əs\

Definition of POROUS
1a : possessing or full of pores
b : containing vessels
2a : permeable to fluids
b : permeable to outside influences
3 : capable of being penetrated
— po·rous·ly adverb
— po·rous·ness noun

OK, technically, maybe all metal is porous to Hydrogen atoms (and plasma torches)..

But anti-sieze?

Naaah.

Weld one end of a header tube to seal it, add some motor oil, weld seal the other end, and then wait for it to magically leach out. (see you in 10,000 years).

maybe not in the traditional sense.. but cast iron is rough enough that the surface is NOT smooth and full of casting irregularities.. making it's outer surface porous.

Saw this on my FB news feed. This is new from Eastwood, anybody try it, thoughts?

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-hi-temp-internal-exhaust-coating-w-extension-tu.html

Wow, I know how much just the bolts smoke, I cant imagine a whole manifold covered with the stuff. Several high temp sprays available that are just as good or better, why would you bother with this?