Zeitgeist
Zeitgeist Reader
6/28/18 6:15 p.m.

I'm starting to consider a vehicle for a project and figured I would get the input from the GRM community since there is plenty of experience and knowledge to make a better decision.

 

I am looking to do a TRaCK/TRuCK.  Truck to be used as a street legal, fun driver that will do double duty for trackdays, autocross and related fun events.  I always wanted to do a LS swap into a Syclone with a blown motor or missing motor but that seems like a bit of sacrilige and it is hard to find a decent price and condition Syclone.  The next best thing is to have a LS equipped standard cab shortbed pick up, RWD, lowered.  I have a LS shortblock and some parts for a start so the vehicle needs to be decided on.

 

I am considering Silverado/Sierra, Colorado/Canyon, S10/S15 all standard cab shortbed versions.  A LS will be the engine and I am leaning toward an automatic trans but not 100% sure I will with a small chance of a manual.  

 

Questions:  Any ideas on weights of GMT800 or GMT900 vs Canyon/Colorado, vs  S series?

What kind of tires can be reasonably fitted without crazy flares or expensive/special wheels under each?

How well is the support/aftermarket for lowering each without totally screwing up the suspension geometry?  Do they all have decent drop spindles, lowering kits etc..?

 

Obviously The GMT800/900 already can be found with LS motors and it appears GM made Colorados/Canyons with LS even though I haven't seen any for sale.  S series trucks seem to have plenty of V8 swap kits and parts at least for early Small Block Chevys.  Are there reasonably priced parts or kits for putting in a LS in each with serious cutting or welding and fabrication?  

Any big known weak areas of each platform that should be a concern or caution for LS swap and track use? 

 

Any truck bought would have ABS, get new seats,steeringwheel, and I would keep it fairly mild looking close to stock other than tires/wheels, lowering and possibly factory flares.

 

Thoughts and experiences shared are much appreciated.

 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
6/28/18 6:33 p.m.

I tracked an autocrossed an 88 s10 2wd that was initially built in challenge budget. Had a camaro 3.4, 4 cyl t5, and ac. Awesome truck. 

Look up drivabeater s10.

 

So you know my vote......

mazdeuce - Seth
mazdeuce - Seth Mod Squad
6/28/18 7:27 p.m.

I like the GMT900 trucks. Higher buy in but you get a truck that's already wired for your end game. The front suspension is proper double A arms with coilovers and there is a bunch of suspension options waiting to be made better. The one hitch is that they're drum brakes on the rear from the factory. Lots of options to go disk and you want to replace the 10 bolt if you put any real power in it anyway. 

Full disclosure, I want to build one for a One Lap truck so I'm biased. 

STM317
STM317 SuperDork
6/28/18 8:31 p.m.

Should be able to get a 2nd gen S10 close to 3000lbs. Older square s10s can be made lighter, but fit less rubber underneath. 

You're not going to get a full size down to those weights, and more weight means nothing good on track. Consumables will be pricey. Placing a larger truck on track might be difficult too. It's easier to see your corners in a smaller vehicle.

 Colorados are ok, but they have 6 lug wheels with goofy/expensive wheel bearings. Finding decent wheels in the size you want might be tougher than the S10s more common bolt pattern.

 

Patrick
Patrick GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/28/18 9:00 p.m.

While i’m all for ls swapping a dime, i’d look to a gmt800 rcsb v8 truck and go.  Add suspension   and lots of rubber, then when you can out drive your 4.8/5.3 toss a 6.0/6.2 at it.  It’s probably the simplest route to staying out of trouble and downtime.  Sometimes it’s really tough to deal with a non running project, and by sometimes I mean all the time

Zeitgeist
Zeitgeist Reader
6/29/18 9:21 a.m.

So far it is 2 S-10s one GMT800 one GMT900 and no Colorado/Canyon votes.  I like the GMT 900 also but buy in is a factor to consider.  They have what looks like a ton of room for tires, rack and pinion steering with modern front suspension, raked back windshield lots to offer.

 

Finding a clean later model S truck in RCSB with ABS isn't so easy.  The Colorado/Canyons seem to be a dime a dozen.  I wonder if there is an alternate spindle/knuckle that can be used and/or redrilling the hubs for more common 5 lug set up? 

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt PowerDork
6/29/18 10:49 a.m.

If you want to build a "Sy-clone," swap a transfer case out of an Oldsmobile Bravada into an S10. Same unit as the Syclone used.

Alternatively, if an open bed isn't required, just put the LSx in the Bravada.

barefootskater
barefootskater HalfDork
6/29/18 10:59 a.m.

I played the S10 game. Great little trucks with very cheap parts and well documented suspension mods. The little rear axle is apparently a problem if you plan on having real power, but with some planning and elbow grease they can be reasonably capable and fun to drive. And very cheap to convert a 4wd ino Awd, especially if you plan an auto trans. Awd and LS power will make your local subie crowd wet themselves. Also my truck with its boat anchor 4.3 was well under 2900 lbs on all the local scales. Could've been lighter too with some fiberglass bits and more effort.

Zeitgeist
Zeitgeist Reader
6/29/18 2:44 p.m.

Is the transfer case the only difference between a 4WD S10 and Syclone as far as drivetrain( obviously minus engine) goes?  I thought the Syclone had different front diff, axles and other parts.  I assume the front spindles/knuckles are different on the Syclone than Bravada/4WD S10 to get the lower ride height or was it just done with springs?

 

Any idea on manifold/header and oil pan clearance issues with 4WD/AWD S10 with LS in it? 

 

I assume a LS can bolt to a 4.3 V6 trans with just the flexplate/crank spacer or adapter thing that is readily available?  So motor mounts, oil pan and exhaust seem to be other issues to consider.  The LS shortblock I have is a LS6 so at least it is aluminum for the weight issue. It has a truck rear sump pick up pan attached to it.  What does the S10 fitting a LS take for pans?

 

BTW you guys are dangerous.  I pretty much wrote off the Syclone with LS idea but had no clue a 4WD with transfer case change was a straight forward option to look at.  Hell that would open up the S 10 market to 4WD as well as RWD versions.

captdownshift
captdownshift GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
6/29/18 3:04 p.m.

Volvo 240 wagon converted to a pickup and LS swapped is the answer here. 

edizzle89
edizzle89 Dork
6/29/18 3:11 p.m.
Zeitgeist said:

Is the transfer case the only difference between a 4WD S10 and Syclone as far as drivetrain( obviously minus engine) goes?  I thought the Syclone had different front diff, axles and other parts.  I assume the front spindles/knuckles are different on the Syclone than Bravada/4WD S10 to get the lower ride height or was it just done with springs?

 

Any idea on manifold/header and oil pan clearance issues with 4WD/AWD S10 with LS in it? 

 

I assume a LS can bolt to a 4.3 V6 trans with just the flexplate/crank spacer or adapter thing that is readily available?  So motor mounts, oil pan and exhaust seem to be other issues to consider.  The LS shortblock I have is a LS6 so at least it is aluminum for the weight issue. It has a truck rear sump pick up pan attached to it.  What does the S10 fitting a LS take for pans?

 

BTW you guys are dangerous.  I pretty much wrote off the Syclone with LS idea but had no clue a 4WD with transfer case change was a straight forward option to look at.  Hell that would open up the S 10 market to 4WD as well as RWD versions.

the bravada/4wd s10's share all the same suspension/axle design as the syclone/typhoons. if you get a bravada awd transfer case you want the 4472 case which was in the bravada's up to 97, after that they switched to some electronic controlled awd thing that sucks. with the 4wd the front suspension will be torsion bar (still same as syclones) which is adjustable and you can drop the front with the turn of a bolt, there is a company or 2 that makes coilovers for syclones that should work on a 4wd s10 if you want that.

 

there are also a few companies that make LS pans for 4wd s10's along with mounts and headers so that all should be easy to find.

Driven5
Driven5 SuperDork
6/29/18 3:39 p.m.

Trailblaser SS and Saab 9-7X Aero had a an LS2 mated to a 4L70E transmission mated to a transfer cased equipped with a Torsen Type III center differential...Which has a rear biased torque split. Seems like a pretty good drivetrain starting point to me. 

The first gen Colorado did also get fitted with a 5.3L, although I'm not sure how well or not the rest of the TBSS drivetrain might fit.  If it's no easier than trying to do the same in a second gen S10, then I'd probably go with the S10. 

Alternatively, I've always thought that a C5 corvette transaxle in the bed of an S10 would be pretty cool too.

Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron GRM+ Memberand New Reader
6/29/18 3:53 p.m.

If you end up sticking with an auto and want more than stock 5.3 power you are going to want to replace the 4L60e/65/70 (they all are the same garbage trans) with a 4L80e.  The 4L80e is a bit heavier but they are a very stout unit that takes abuse and asks for more.  I wouldn't ever bother rebuilding a 4L60e or any of its "stronger" variants.

For a budget minded build I'd get 1994 and up Blazers and S10s can be picked up for stupid little money.  If you want the best canvas to start painting on I second Mazduece on the GMT900.

barefootskater
barefootskater HalfDork
6/29/18 4:59 p.m.

In reply to Driven5 :

I'm no expert, but I seem to remember that the 4472 was rear biased as well? Like 70-30 or something. Could be wrong.

There are plenty of LS into dime swap kits with everything needed, mounts, sump, headers. Not terribly cheap, but not too bad either. Not sure on complications from 4wd (diff n stuff).

Vigo
Vigo UltimaDork
6/29/18 10:05 p.m.

Besides the fact that i already own a ZQ8 s10 with plans to v8ify it, i vote s10 because it'll  be faster all around at the same power level, and getting proper brakes and rubber underneath it won't be nearly as expensive either first time around, or in upkeep.

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