Help me brainstorm a project (civic content)

Sounds like you need to read the forums, if your going B series, check out team-integra.net and clubintegra.com

Team integra has more articles, how-to's, etc. As well as building your all important 200hp motor. You'll be hard pressed to do it on your budget or with a b18b or b18a. Stay far away from a LS-vtec conversion, they are more trouble then they are worth, if you read up on the swap you'll quickly find out that most people end up blowing up their engines from the head swap at some point in time. If your going to do it right, you can find a gsr engine with tranny for a reasonable price either online or offline. Part outs are the most popular.

car-part.com is a site that you can search junk yards for parts, just doing a local search for me netted a gsr engine and tranny for 1500, not a bad price. swap in some hotter cams, intake and exhaust and you'll start getting where you'll want to be.

Also OBD-1 is where your going to want to stay at, because of tuning issues and less problems with the ecu and CEL errors.

If you are planning to have this be a DD, one thing to consider is swapping out the 5th gear for a LS 5th gear, that goes for any of the B-series tranny's though, it'll drop you rpm's by alot while cruising on the highway saving both your ears from the drone of the exhaust and the price of fuel as well.

At first stick with the stock axle's but as you increase your power, a burn out or attempt at one will break and axle. Occasionally the various forums, such as the ones listed above, or honda tech has deals on aftermarket axle's.

If I were you I'd also take the time to do a full mil-spec wire tuck, it looks that much cleaner if your going to shows and de-clutters the engine bay.

The DX will be that way to go, they are the lightest of the models, you can always swap in power options if you wish, and the auto cars switch over easy, although you'll lose your cruise control if its not a manual car already.

you can pick up the trailing arms from an integra for cheap to swap over the rear disc brakes, just make sure you add the integra's bigger brake master cylinder, or you'll have trouble stopping and an extremely stiff pedal as well.

I haven't seen anything wrong with an LS-Vtec setup... the people have problems with them are the people that didn't put them together well.

But the point here is that he won't make 200whp on a stock B18B bottom end, anyways, so tthe worry of revving that high on a stock bottom end is null and void. It's going to take a built motor, but it'll be cheap to do.

then again, drop in a H22 or H23, its easy to get the 200hp that your looking for then...

Do I remember right that H22s have to be sleeved if you rebuild them?

I've never heard that before, but why rebuild it? Intake/Exhaust/Header, and possibly cams and your upto your 200hp if not more.

If you're going to put that heavy H-series lump up front, do it right.

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0902_k24_vtec_versus_g23_vtec_tech_knowledge/index.html

Maybe I am missing something, you guys say "Fantasy" But as I sit here and type this I look out the window at what you described...and it was less then 5 grand...also have another one at home.

I bought a 92 Civic CX Rust free and motorless for $300 , and sold the snow tires on it for $250.

My daily driver is a 00 SiR with Koni yellows , GC coil overs, B16 with Type R cams, ACT clutch innovative mounts...ect..ect Never winter driven. Paid 5 grand for the car. probably around 180Hp with the cams , header and exhaust. I bought the car with all the mods on it. heavier chassis then the EG , but still an example.

a Friend just bought this. No rust, B16 conversion , paid $750 for it.

As for breaking axles?? Huh??? Lots of guys running 300-400hp on stock axles. I know of an EF in the 10's on stock axles for thelast 2 years. they break when dumbasses don't pre-load the tranny and use agressive clutches and tires.

Your Goal isn't hard at all. You can build a B20 for under a grand with ARP head studs, rod bolts and Hi Comp PR3's. A friend of mine has daily driven a B20 turbo on 7 Psi for 3 years without an issue. Winter and summer.

You need to scrounge. I got used Koni's and GC coilovers off of sccaforums for $300 , poly bushings were found on craigs list for $80.

There is a thread here of when I had to replace my B16 after I blew it up lapping. Short block with cross hatch still showing was $140 , Type R oil pump was $100 , new head studs and gasket and I was back on the road in a weekend for under $500 with a new clutch. I have put 20,000 kms on it since then and haven't missed a beat.

It's funny you say he can't build it for $5000 .. You guys hear of the GRM challenge? LOL

Will a B16 head bolt up to a B20 motor? I may have found a real cheap B20.

Yep

How to Build a reliable LS VTec B20Yep.

If you would have said 3 grand , I may have cringed a little. 5 grand is cake..

Don't buy anything BNIB and you will be able to get to your goal. Do lots of reading too!

www.sccaforums.com <- good for parts.

I bought this for $300 , no rust , original paint. Kid parted it out after too many tickets with a B20 Swap. I sold the snows off of it for $250 and the chinese coilovers that were on it for $30... essentially $20

The wheels on this I bought for $300 with Kuhomo V700's.

The CF hood needs to be re-cleared, but was $140.

My setup could be sorta duplicated and accomplish your goals. With a JRSC and the right pulley, you should be able to pump 8-10 psi into a built D Series. With SRP11:1 pistons and Eagle rods, and with E85 fueling it, you should be able to hit you power goals.

The JRSC allows you to keep your AC, which is hard with a turbo.

jwdmotorsports wrote: Will a B16 head bolt up to a B20 motor? I may have found a real cheap B20.

If it's a B20Z with the slight compression bump, you won't need a vtec head to hit your goals, though, unless you find one for cheap.

(BTW, you don't want mine, i just looked at it, and it's UGLY. Would cost more to rebuild than to just get another one, sorry.)

B20z with some Crower 404 cams, maybe shave the head a little, mild port work, intake, nice header, exhaust, and a tune should be close to your goal, and will have a huge powerband.

It's a b20a out of a prelude. Don't know the year.

Boy, that white CX is full of win.

Good get.

jwdmotorsports wrote: It's a b20a out of a prelude. Don't know the year.

Run away. That's not a "real" B-series.

93celicaGT2 wrote:

jwdmotorsports wrote: It's a b20a out of a prelude. Don't know the year.

Run away. That's not a "real" B-series.

Thanks. That's what I wanted to know

jwdmotorsports wrote:

93celicaGT2 wrote:

jwdmotorsports wrote: It's a b20a out of a prelude. Don't know the year.

Run away. That's not a "real" B-series.

Thanks. That's what I wanted to know

They've got all kinds of weirdness down in them. The sleeves are made out of a bizarre material, no one makes anything for them, and you can't put a Vtec head on it. It's not a ridiculously weak motor or anything, but you won't make it to your goal using it without a turbo or a lot of money.

If you really want to do the B20 thing, look for CRVs in a self service junkyard.

Are you worried about passing smog at all? Might be worth the extra $$ to get a K-series, be 100% legal, and hit your HP goal on stock parts that will last a very long time in such a light car...

As long as I live in AL I don't have to worry about smog checks.

EF hatch with trunk-mounted Honda/Acura V6. Pick your flavor.

/thread.

Mmmmmmm a Honda Shogun!

I really love this idea of a cheap light daily driver that has significant power yet still returns decent MPG.

The only thing I can't get over is the sound that modified hondas make. Every single one I've heard sounds like complete garbage. I don't think it's necessarily the exhaust, more like the cold air intake. It just sounds harsh and annoying. NOT good for a daily.

Is there any recipe for a quick powerful car that is quiet and subdued? Is it possible to make decent power with the stock intake and a K&N panel filter? THe exhaust shouldnt be tough, just use a quality resonator and muffler combo instead of the fart cans most use.

I just did a youtube search for quiet civic. tons of videos of guys showing how loud their cars are. lol.

This guy posted the following video showing how quiet a car with intake, header, and exhaust can be. Here he is feathering the throttle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VP9Z155GGCU

Then he went WOT. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_De4Q_yuMrY&feature=related

^Cake.

Intake of your choice, it's really not THAT loud on a Honda. Header of your choice. Resonator of your choice, and an Apexi WS2 cat-back. Quiet when you want it to be, and sounds VERY nice when you romp on it, but still not deafening.

Search Youtube clips of it. I've never heard a honda sound that good.

integraguy wrote: It had all 3 strut tower braces you can use on this car, so as a result it had minimal roll.

Uhh, how do strut tower braces reduce body roll?

poopy: we make the V6s at the plant in Lincoln, AL. Trust me, that thought crosses my mind every day.

2002maniac wrote: The only thing I can't get over is the sound that modified hondas make.

The sound "modified hondas" make has nothing to do with Honda's or Honda's being Modified. Any car with the idiotic shyte that ricers call "exhausts" draped onto the done side of the engine will sound terrible. One of the best sounding cars I have spent significant time behind the wheel of is a bone stock 99 civic si a good friend of mine owns. It just sings when you are jabbing at it and burbles around very civilly when you are not. I count anything NA motor that makes 100 hp per liter of displacement as "modified"! Thank god for ricers though, I picked up a 99-00 Si cat back with 20k on it for $25 and modified it a bit to run it on my modified 96 hatch. Works great. You can put together a very good system that will sound just fine, even on a modified honda.