MadScientistMatt wrote: With that Stim version and an MS1, you'll want to use "Stim for wheel" mode for RPM testing.
I'm pretty sure that's how I had it setup. (found the info on MS site). I will check again before I test later. Thank you for following and helping.
Derick Freese wrote: Do alcohol after water, unless you're using distilled. Even then, you can't ignore the drying effects of alcohol.
I did that first but I seemed to get a lot of residue when drying. Maybe I hadn't rinsed the flux off thoroughly enough?
From the video, the fact that your two ignition channels are working differently tells me that something is wrong with one of them, since you know 2&3 aren't firing I'd say it's the channel those are attached to.
Yeah, you really need to scrub to get some flux to come off. It may not have been completely clean. What kind of alcohol were you using? I use denatured alcohol, but 100% alcohol of some nature is the way to go.
Wish I could remember what the issue was the last time the Mumpkin ran on 2 cylinders back in 2011. Did you update firmware or reflash a tune right before you had the issue?
In reply to PseudoSport:
I don't think we reflashed anything after the car last ran well. In '11 our issue was a poor connection at an injector. We have had injector and spark plug issues this year but I think we have ruled those out this time.
When you tried to switch to COPs did you change the spark settings to waste spark?
PseudoSport wrote: Wish I could remember what the issue was the last time the Mumpkin ran on 2 cylinders back in 2011. Did you update firmware or reflash a tune right before you had the issue?
We checked for updates right before the issue, but no updates were found.
PseudoSport wrote: When you tried to switch to COPs did you change the spark settings to waste spark?
It was already running in wasted spark. The way it was wired and set up we only needed to change the dwell settings for the CBR coils. Which run LESS dwell than the stock coil. We have the same running conditions on both the stock coil and the COP set up.
With multiple attempts, including replacing the igniter and coils with "assumed good" parts, at making the stock setup work before the CBR coils and Bosch 4 channel igniter were installed on the car.
We seem to be having a really hard time getting tunerstudio connected to the squirt as well. The computer sees the USB/serial converter, it just doesn't want to connect. The connector feels "loose" and wiggles a lot but the solder joints seem fine.
MadScientistMatt wrote: That's an MS1 V3.0, so notes on the MS2 may not be valid and can cause some confusion. The MS2/Extra has some diagnostic tools that would be handy here, too. But I'd first check the unit on a JimStim and see if you can get a good RPM signal and see if the outputs pulse there. The JimStim will go a long ways towards making this easy. If you don't have one, make a data log of an attempted start and see if you get RPM. The part you posted is part of the injector drive circuit. We have a comprehensive troubleshooting guide for that circuit here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_injector_driver_troubleshooting.htm
Just finished going through that ENTIRE troubleshooting link. It ALL checked out, allofit. It's not injector drivers.
Spinout007 wrote: Just finished going through that ENTIRE troubleshooting link. It ALL checked out, allofit. It's not injector drivers.
So, what was the varying signals from the 2 outputs Mr. J described on page 1?
Did you run the troubleshooting procedure before cleaning the board AND after, or just after? In other words, did you establish a baseline before you made any changes, or after the cleaning?
Perhaps the corrosion WAS the issue.
In reply to SVreX:
Spinout is referring to the injector circuit. The varying LED signal was on the ignition circuit. We tested the injection circuit because of the melty looking resistor in the early pictures that Matt said was part of the injector circuit. Good to know that part is working.
The LED test on the ignition circuit is doing the same thing as before-the channel I called 1 seems to be going "full on" while the other is pulsing.
In reply to MrJoshua:
Gotcha.
What sort of USB converter are you using?
Check in TS configuration that is is still set for 4 cyl wasted spark and basic trigger (I thik is what EDIS uses)
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS2V30_Hardware-3.4.pdf section 5.2.10
There is no ignition final drive on that board, it relies on an outside module to run spark.
There is not enough pictured to tell what it has been wired for. It could be PIP and SAW or whatever the Bosch needs or logic level spark outputs.
If you shared some details on your setup more accurate keyboard conjecture might be provided. Your full crank position physical layout and an MSQ. Posting in the MSExtra forum will get you lots more eyeballs as well. I have already blundered by providing a link to a MS2 manual. Since you have MS1 look here http://www.msextra.com/doc/index-ms1.html
Note: MS is really easy, many folks make it more difficult by using solutions that add unnecessary complexity, redundancy, or third party things that have to be worked around and can be done better using native MS circuits. A simple missing tooth crank trigger with a pair of BIP's inside the MS case just work (with no loss of MS features).
MadScientistMatt wrote: What sort of USB converter are you using?
FTDI USB2.0 to RS232.
I have 5 volts at pin 1 and 9 and ground at pin 5 of my DB-9 port. I have also verified continuity of each female socket on the DB-9 through the solder joints on the board.
From the thread title, I thought someone spilled something nasty on their hootus.
"Hurt your squirt" and "Mumpkin?" Sounds like somebody shoulda worn protection 
"Spare squirt in the box" doesn't help his arguments any.
Best to keep the USB cable as short as possible and use a DB9 serial extension to keep interference to a minimum. The Serial cable is less susceptible to interference.
Still need a pic of the bottom of the board to see how it's configured.
In reply to bentwrench:
If you need more detail of a specific area let me know.
Top of the board has a PWM mod for a 2 wire Ford or Bosch ISC.
Are both the resistors in the lower right corner the same color code? 330ohm?
Which ignition module was it running on?
I'm not in my comfort zone I don't speak MS1.
Having to translate as I go I don't see those circuit mods in the MS1 manual
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