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tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 11:41 a.m.
Curmudgeon wrote: Lose those Bosch plugs immediately if not sooner, those things have caused cold running problems in every brand of car I've ever worked with except Mercedes. The other thing: has the timing belt been replaced? If it hasn't do it quick. If it has, it's worth verifying the cams are timed properly in relation to each other.

Champion copper only or the platinums they have? Not sure what OEM was.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 11:45 a.m.
tuna55 wrote:
Curmudgeon wrote: Lose those Bosch plugs immediately if not sooner, those things have caused cold running problems in every brand of car I've ever worked with except Mercedes. The other thing: has the timing belt been replaced? If it hasn't do it quick. If it has, it's worth verifying the cams are timed properly in relation to each other.
Champion copper only or the platinums they have? Not sure what OEM was.

NM, #443, got it

BoneYard_Racing
BoneYard_Racing Reader
5/22/13 11:48 a.m.

OE were NGK platinum you want copper Champion only ever. The temp sensor on the head is the only one. IAT goes in the intake tube. There is a TPS rewire kit for later 2.4 stuff my SRT4 had some of the same problems you're talking about before I did it maybe its worth looking into.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 11:51 a.m.
BoneYard_Racing wrote: OE were NGK platinum you want copper Champion only ever. The temp sensor on the head is the only one. IAT goes in the intake tube. There is a TPS rewire kit for later 2.4 stuff my SRT4 had some of the same problems you're talking about before I did it maybe its worth looking into.

ZHmmm... TPS, didn't think of that. Lemme see what the plugs do and I'll get back to you on that one.

foxtrapper
foxtrapper PowerDork
5/22/13 12:16 p.m.
Curmudgeon wrote: Lose those Bosch plugs immediately if not sooner, those things have caused cold running problems in every brand of car I've ever worked with except Mercedes.

Just for clarification, are you talking specifically about the Bosch +4 plugs, or Bosch plugs in general?

iceracer
iceracer UberDork
5/22/13 1:07 p.m.
tuna55 wrote:
iceracer wrote:
tuna55 wrote:
iceracer wrote: Sounds like it might be a temperature sensor problem. Sort of takes the place of the choke and manifold heat on a carburetor car.
IAT = intake air temperature The other one works the gauge, right? That one works fine if I can reliably tell by reading the gauge and seeing when the radiator fan comes on.
There are two temperature SENSORS and on temperature SENDER. The sensors are coolant and air intake. these feed information to the ECU which then detremins proper fuel and ignition. The sender is for the temperature gauge, it has no effect on proper running.
Find me a part number - I think you may be mistaken.

Later models use the information that the coolant sensors sends to the ECU to also operate the gauge. I was thinking of older models.

iceracer
iceracer UberDork
5/22/13 1:18 p.m.

Have you checked the idle air control for smooth operation ?

when you start the engine , cold, the idle speed should be around 1500 rpm and the slowly drop to normal.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 1:20 p.m.
iceracer wrote: Have you checked the idle air control for smooth operation ? when you start the engine , cold, the idle speed should be around 1500 rpm and the slowly drop to normal.

Explain how to check it... I really don't know.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 1:50 p.m.

For the record - here is the deal

I own a PT Cruiser, it was a hand-me-over from the wife, purchased five years ago when she was just pregnant with #1 and we had two dogs. I wanted a big-3 wagon. We had quite a budget since her 98 Civic was totaled in a rear end accident (she got hit, she was fine, as was baby #1).

FFW a few years. We were getting ready to have kid #4 and we buy a Caravan. She needs to move the kids more often, so it's her main car. Mine is the Cruiser. I bring kid #1 and #2 to school every morning along with some associated shuttling about. We don't have any more dogs.

In about one year, I'll be bringing kids #1,#2 and #3 to school. The Cruiser isn't going to work at that point, I will be shopping for something else.

The Cruiser is getting ready to be expensive. At 150k, the transmission feels (could just be my imagination) a little hesitant. I can hear the clicks rattles and bangs of various worn out suspension pieces (despite having replaced many) and I want it gone before it breaks, especially seeing as I don't need it's particular qualities anymore.

A friend at work just bought a new Hyundai and is looking to get rid of his 98 Civic (wow, full circle) stick shift. Indie mechanic maintained, daily driven, sedan, for $500. I say unload the Cruiser, enjoy a year of cheaper insurance, better fuel economy, and less risk associated with a 150k mile chrysler FWD transmission, plus have an easier time selling the Civic than the Cruiser (I can afford to own both a Civic and a Crusier for a time, I cannot afford to own both a Mazda 5 and a Cruiser) and have some capital to play with (estimated selling price of 2.5k for the Cruiser) and can use that towards the Mazda5.

Now you know...

...

The rest... of the story.

BoneYard_Racing
BoneYard_Racing Reader
5/22/13 3:49 p.m.

http://www.modernperformance.com/product/Mopar_TPS_Wiring_Repair_Kit_03-05_Neon_SRT4/587

iceracer
iceracer UberDork
5/22/13 5:01 p.m.
tuna55 wrote:
iceracer wrote: Have you checked the idle air control for smooth operation ? when you start the engine , cold, the idle speed should be around 1500 rpm and the slowly drop to normal.
Explain how to check it... I really don't know.

Second sentence. If it does that, it most likely is working OK.

Jaxmadine
Jaxmadine Reader
5/22/13 6:20 p.m.

The rear 02 on a chrysler should not move much. They want to see a steady 600mv. So if its a flat line, your doing good with it. Hell,I have a resistor in min so I could lean it out a bit. And, its more of a cloud car, not a neon. :-P

moparman76_69
moparman76_69 Dork
5/22/13 6:59 p.m.

In reply to tuna55:

Just out of curiosity how much would you be wanting out of it?

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 8:46 p.m.
iceracer wrote:
tuna55 wrote:
iceracer wrote: Have you checked the idle air control for smooth operation ? when you start the engine , cold, the idle speed should be around 1500 rpm and the slowly drop to normal.
Explain how to check it... I really don't know.
Second sentence. If it does that, it most likely is working OK.

It does exactly that... in the non-frigid temps

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/22/13 8:47 p.m.
moparman76_69 wrote: In reply to tuna55: Just out of curiosity how much would you be wanting out of it?

Bottom line, one GRMer to another, with a good wash and interior cleaning, $2500.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic MegaDork
5/23/13 7:53 a.m.

Paint it orange with the stars and bars on the roof and jump it off things. Film and becoming internet legend and then maybe someone would buy it.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
5/23/13 8:00 a.m.
93EXCivic wrote: Paint it orange with the stars and bars on the roof and jump it off things. Film and becoming internet legend and then maybe someone would buy it.

If -you- will, I'll do it.

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