My Miata has a draw of .08 amps. I pulled all the fuses in both fuse boxes, and still, my multimeter shows .08 amps. The car was in a front end accident, so I'm wondering if that's created the issue.
Any ideas? Could it be the battery?
My Miata has a draw of .08 amps. I pulled all the fuses in both fuse boxes, and still, my multimeter shows .08 amps. The car was in a front end accident, so I'm wondering if that's created the issue.
Any ideas? Could it be the battery?
How are you measuring it? Clamp-on ammeter, or an inline one? What's the precision on the meter?
I had a similar issue with mine. It was a shock sensor from a long defunct alarm system. I ended up finding it in the center console when I did a shifter turret rebuild.
In reply to codrus:
With a multimeter on the battery. Disconnected the negative terminal and put the red lead on the negative terminal, the black on the disconnected negative cable. I'm not sure of the precision, I'd have to check when I get home. I don't think this is the issue as I can measure my other car in this way and I see 0 draw, but who knows.
kazoospec wrote: I had a similar issue with mine. It was a shock sensor from a long defunct alarm system. I ended up finding it in the center console when I did a shifter turret rebuild.
Interesting. There is an old alarm on this car. Would that particular draw remain even when all of the fuses were pulled?
In reply to CyberEric:
Something aftermarket sounds likely if it is not fused at all...
Robbie wrote: In reply to CyberEric: Something aftermarket sounds likely if it is not fused at all...
It could also have its own inline fuse tapped off the battery cable somewhere. Alarm systems, stereo gear, trailer light controllers, stuff like that.
An inline multimeter is probably an accurate reading. Clamp-on meters are not accurate down to that level and could easily show 80 mA when there's actually nothing.
CyberEric wrote:kazoospec wrote: I had a similar issue with mine. It was a shock sensor from a long defunct alarm system. I ended up finding it in the center console when I did a shifter turret rebuild.Interesting. There is an old alarm on this car. Would that particular draw remain even when all of the fuses were pulled?
Not entirely sure. Mine was tied into a fused line (can't remember which one), but that doesn't mean yours is. I think you would find aftermarket alarm install wiring to be wildly varied.
codrus wrote:Robbie wrote: In reply to CyberEric: Something aftermarket sounds likely if it is not fused at all...It could also have its own inline fuse tapped off the battery cable somewhere. Alarm systems, stereo gear, trailer light controllers, stuff like that.
Totally agree, probably should have said 'not fuse boxed'. If it's not protected by a factory fuse.
I'm not as good at miatas as some of you and don't have the wiring harness memorized (yet), but my bet is that if there is still the draw after emptying the factory fuse boxes then it is an aftermarket addition that is at fault.
So should I try and trace the wires off of the alarm back to the battery and see if I see an non-factory fuse somewhere?
And just unplugging the alarm wouldn't reveal this to be the issue, correct?
CyberEric wrote: So should I try and trace the wires off of the alarm back to the battery and see if I see an non-factory fuse somewhere? And just unplugging the alarm wouldn't reveal this to be the issue, correct?
Personally I would just yank the alarm entirely.
codrus wrote:CyberEric wrote: So should I try and trace the wires off of the alarm back to the battery and see if I see an non-factory fuse somewhere? And just unplugging the alarm wouldn't reveal this to be the issue, correct?Personally I would just yank the alarm entirely.
x2 I had a Miata with parasitic draw - removing the alarm was pretty easy - just follow the wires that don't belong.
codrus wrote:CyberEric wrote: So should I try and trace the wires off of the alarm back to the battery and see if I see an non-factory fuse somewhere? And just unplugging the alarm wouldn't reveal this to be the issue, correct?Personally I would just yank the alarm entirely.
Alarms make cars not work by design. Hate 'em. Take it out and drive over it with a brodozer.
How much does the radio draw to maintain the clock and station presets? I'd guess that is something quite a bit less than 0.08A. Maybe 0.01A, but that is just a guess. If it has an alarm, that is your culprit.
Looks like the alarm was the problem. I removed it and the draw is gone. Not sure how it was managing to draw even when all of the fuses were pulled, but it seems it was.
Downside is that the alarm was wired to kill the ignition, so I have to plug it back in to start the car. Eye roll. At least until feel like re-wiring it.
The ignition is the blue wire with the white stripe right?
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