itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/26/14 9:14 a.m.

i drove the truck to work this morning. first ten miles were fine. somewhere in the parking lot area the front brakes stopped releasing. both wheels are hot as he** and are grabbing hard enough to stop the vehicle when the accelerator is lifted.

any ideas? vehicle was 4 wheeled on saturday, but drove home 60+ miles with no brake issues and drove fine most of the way here this morning.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/26/14 9:15 a.m.

its a 99 durango slt by the way. duh! that might help.....

N Sperlo
N Sperlo MegaDork
8/26/14 9:17 a.m.

Both fronts? I would suggest starting your search at the master cylinder.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/26/14 9:34 a.m.

yep. both. what should i look for? i have never seen this happen before.

N Sperlo
N Sperlo MegaDork
8/26/14 9:37 a.m.

There really ins't much to look for in a failing master cylinder. You may want to try to relieve some pressure from the lines, but I think you will find is that the master needs to be replaced if it isn't releasing fully.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/26/14 9:50 a.m.

Argh. Not what I needed today. Thanks for the help though!

Strike_Zero
Strike_Zero SuperDork
8/26/14 10:38 a.m.

I just went through this with my 2000 Dakota. First it was right caliper, then left caliper . . .

I did the wholesale replace it all . . . . Master, rubber brake lines and calipers.

N Sperlo
N Sperlo MegaDork
8/26/14 10:41 a.m.

Great way to eliminate future problems and giving the rust a good ole berkeley you.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/26/14 4:57 p.m.

you were right. master was berkeleyed. fluid that was clear a month ago looked like chocolate milk. got it replaced over lunch as i couldnt very well drive it home like that and the repair was only a little more than a tow truck. replacing the lines and the rotors (which are bound to be toast now too) this weekend. thanks!

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/28/14 7:46 a.m.

Help still needed master replaced, system bled. Did it again going home last night. Don't want to put on the new rotors till it's fixed. No sense warping them. Any ideas? I did notice the proportion ing valve is divorced from the master. Any chance this could fail with this result?

Strike_Zero
Strike_Zero SuperDork
8/28/14 8:03 a.m.

Hard to say. Peeps on the Dakota-Durango forum say just replace em all and bleed the system.

I tried just replacing the line and stuck caliper on the right side . . . Then left side did the same thing. Berk it and replaced it all, bled it the best that could and 300 miles later, no issues.

How many miles on you Durango? If the master had junk fluid it, crap my be stuck in the lines and calipers.

DrBoost
DrBoost UltimaDork
8/28/14 9:15 a.m.

Check the brake pedal and pushrod. It's unusual, but it would apply both front brakes evenly and could do what are describing.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/28/14 10:03 a.m.

Junk in the line from a failing master is what I'm most afraid of. I guess I just need to suck it up, put my big boy pants on and blow out all the lines and and unit. I'll probably just replace the proportioning valve, rebuild the calipers, replace the rubber lines and call it maintenance

I don't think it is interior when the brakes stick on the pedal gets stupid firm. I looked at it to be sure it was fully regaling and it is all the way back and off the brake light switch.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
8/28/14 1:08 p.m.

does it have ABS? could be corrosion/blockage in there that doesn't allow line pressure to release all the way.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/29/14 9:36 a.m.

It has rear wheel abs. Not front. So far no issues withe rears and I want to keep it that way.

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