I've bought a ton of Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platinum synthetic from Wal*Mart. They usually run around $22-25 for the 5qt jug, which is a bargain compared to everywhere else.
I've bought a ton of Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platinum synthetic from Wal*Mart. They usually run around $22-25 for the 5qt jug, which is a bargain compared to everywhere else.
My old Ford truck was acting up. Each time I'd start it, the starter wouldn't disengage-- even after the ignition was turned off, and key was pulled. It made for some pretty comedic events--- with me running around to the front of the truck, popping the hood and yanking at the battery cables in a desperate attempt to shut the damn thing off.
So I headed down to Advanced Auto and bought myself a new starter solenoid. After I installed it I turned the key---- still wouldn't disengage. I tested the leads, added a more robust ground---- still no luck.
I went back to Advanced and exchanged the starter solenoid with another one--- they were helpful as they always are. Went back home----installed the new one---- no change--- Truck still acting possessed.
Then I went to NAPA and bought a much higher-quality solenoid for the same price as the Advanced unit. Problem solved, truck now acts as it should.
I know where I'll be buying my parts from now on.
If I'm confused about something, the guys at Advance usually help on the spot.
My Ford dealer's parts department sells Motorcraft full synthetic for about what Walmart charges for Mobil 1. 
Toyman01 wrote:Appleseed wrote: I work for Wal-Mart. Guess were I won't shop?You don't sound like a team player. I bet you don't even cheer and clap at the team building meetings in the morning.
I'm the weirdo at work, so the odds of getting picked to lead the "cheer" are very low, but if they do mine will go like this:
Gimmie an M!
Gimmie an A!
Gimmie a T!
Gimmie a T!
Gimmie a D!
Gimmie an A!
Gimmie an M!
Gimmie an O!
Gimmie an N!
Whats that spell? (Team American voice) MATT DAMON!
Who's number one? (Team American voice) MATT DAMON!
Joe Gearin wrote: My old Ford truck was acting up. Each time I'd start it, the starter wouldn't disengage-- even after the ignition was turned off, and key was pulled. It made for some pretty comedic events--- with me running around to the front of the truck, popping the hood and yanking at the battery cables in a desperate attempt to shut the damn thing off. So I headed down to Advanced Auto and bought myself a new starter solenoid. After I installed it I turned the key---- still wouldn't disengage. I tested the leads, added a more robust ground---- still no luck. I went back to Advanced and exchanged the starter solenoid with another one--- they were helpful as they always are. Went back home----installed the new one---- no change--- Truck still acting possessed. Then I went to NAPA and bought a much higher-quality solenoid for the same price as the Advanced unit.
A co-worker had the exact same problem and went through the exact same steps at my advice. Turns out the ignition switch which was "as dry as a bone". Some graphite lube fixed it
zinc is a no-no for cat equipped cars.....
I didn't know the Supertech Syn was Mobil 1
spitfirebill wrote:Joe Gearin wrote: My old Ford truck was acting up. Each time I'd start it, the starter wouldn't disengage-- even after the ignition was turned off, and key was pulled. It made for some pretty comedic events--- with me running around to the front of the truck, popping the hood and yanking at the battery cables in a desperate attempt to shut the damn thing off. So I headed down to Advanced Auto and bought myself a new starter solenoid. After I installed it I turned the key---- still wouldn't disengage. I tested the leads, added a more robust ground---- still no luck. I went back to Advanced and exchanged the starter solenoid with another one--- they were helpful as they always are. Went back home----installed the new one---- no change--- Truck still acting possessed. Then I went to NAPA and bought a much higher-quality solenoid for the same price as the Advanced unit.A co-worker had the exact same problem and went through the exact same steps at my advice. Turns out the ignition switch which was "as dry as a bone". Some graphite lube fixed it
Graphite is old tech. Use a silicone / teflon lube like Tri-flow. Graphite can accelerate wear and clog tumblers. (lots of experience cleaning balky old lock cylinders of excess graphite and flushing it with silicone then reassembling.)
dculberson wrote:spitfirebill wrote:Graphite is old tech. Use a silicone / teflon lube like Tri-flow. Graphite can accelerate wear and clog tumblers. (lots of experience cleaning balky old lock cylinders of excess graphite and flushing it with silicone then reassembling.)Joe Gearin wrote: My old Ford truck was acting up. Each time I'd start it, the starter wouldn't disengage-- even after the ignition was turned off, and key was pulled. It made for some pretty comedic events--- with me running around to the front of the truck, popping the hood and yanking at the battery cables in a desperate attempt to shut the damn thing off. So I headed down to Advanced Auto and bought myself a new starter solenoid. After I installed it I turned the key---- still wouldn't disengage. I tested the leads, added a more robust ground---- still no luck. I went back to Advanced and exchanged the starter solenoid with another one--- they were helpful as they always are. Went back home----installed the new one---- no change--- Truck still acting possessed. Then I went to NAPA and bought a much higher-quality solenoid for the same price as the Advanced unit.A co-worker had the exact same problem and went through the exact same steps at my advice. Turns out the ignition switch which was "as dry as a bone". Some graphite lube fixed it
You should see this truck. It isn't worth any special new fangled gism. But I'll pass this on.
In reply to dculberson:
Srlsy...Tri-flow is the tits
Supertech Synthetic is made by Mobil 1, according to Teh Intr4w3bz, y0. People are alleged to have seen the case boxes/pallets with Mobil 1 markings. Now, I'm not saying the additive package is the same, but that's the word on teh w3bz. I've been running it in my 4AG, 5SF and 1UZ's for years. The 22R as well, actually, but after the rebuild I had to switch to a dino oil for a while because the rings wouldn't seat with the Supertech Synthetic. Too slipery. Different thread.
Oh, and I buy Break-Free CLP by the gallon. It's a lot cheaper that way.
Dr. Hess wrote: No,Bill. It is a high quality oil. Esprit Turbo people are using it because of the higher zinc content. That zinc content is also why it's labeled as motorcycle oil, because they took the zinc out of car oils. Unless you think the higher zinc level is bad for your car. It ain't cheap, though.
Diesel oil.
The zinc level in diesel oil has been reduced too now, as I understand.
spitfirebill wrote: The zinc level in diesel oil has been reduced too now, as I understand.
:(
People are far too obsessed with ZDDP, the 800+ppm still found in any diesel oil is adequate for anything besides aggressive pushrod V8 cams with stiff springs.
spitfirebill wrote: The zinc level in diesel oil has been reduced too now, as I understand.
And unless you have an old pushrod engine with a big heavy valvetrain and teeny tiny maybe 20mm diameter non-roller lifters... who cares about the ZDDP level?
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