I've run across a ton of these for pretty cheap >$4k around the DC area. Just wondering if these high mileage ones are worthy for track use/club racing or if I should stay away. Some of my BMWophile friends tell me I should be prepared to initially invest $2000 in upgrading cooling system and some suspension bits right off the bat. Anyone concur with this statement? What about 323s? Thanks!
Still searching for a club racing car and exploring all options.
if you are prepared to do the work yourself.. it can be a lot less than 2grand to upgrade cooling and bushings
I just bought a high mileage e46 with 194K on it. I did put about $2500 in to it also.
$1K was just for the Bilstein pro-kit and new bushings and mounts. Another $500 in tires.
The rest was a bunch of nickel and dime components. All work was done by me and all parts were wholesale too. This was just on a DD/commuter. I would probably have spent even more if it was going to be run hard at a track. Obviously it really matters what your starting point (car condition) is. So yes, $2000 can disappear real quick.
323's have about 15hp/20ft lbs less power than a 328. Not sure what the numbers are on the 325/330. I don't think you want to start with a 323.
That's good to hear. I think they were giving me the worst possible scenario, but I'm on here so of course I'd do it myself :).
Thanks Cone Junky. The only reason I ask of 323s is that I've found one in challenge price territory with a tad less than 200k on the clock.
Let me enable you in order to keep me from buying this myself.
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3876440064.html
Similar to the one I'm looking at except it runs! NJ is a bit to far away as well haha.
I stand corrected over 200k miles http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/3850436422.html
Just keep an eye out for broken rear subframes, I dont think it was officially recalled but sometimes the dealer will fix for free.
Is that the same incident where the unibody sheers? Or is that just on the M3 models?
For a club racing car I'd be looking for a club racing car with a cage, all the kinks worked out and sorted. There is a 10k gap between a tired track car and a competitive race car for an entry level class unless you do your own cage, chassis reinforcements, etc... then the gap is smaller but there is still quite a gap.
For a "cheap" track car I think the advice above is accurate.
You take a ratty E46, remove all the interior, change every rubber bushing over to poly, freshen the cooling, ball joints, tie rods and change the suspension... exhaust and whatever else floats your boat and then drive the piss out of it until you need a head gasket. I'd say $2500 +/- $1000 depending on your starting point, self control and DIY skills is right unless you start down the road of doing a race shell, belts and roll bar. When you start down that road, stop. Shop for a $15-$20k race car and you will save yourself two years of headaches and a no-competitive-class DE car worth of receipts.
EDIT: With the abundance of cheap E36 cars out there I'm not sure I'd even shop an E46. I've bought two in the last 2 years. One was a rusty runner for $500 and the other was a well prepped track car with a spare set of wheels (blown motor) for $3k. Both were on track and reliable for under $5k.
Here is a fantastic head start (NMNA): http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/3852093457.html
oooh snorklewacker you may have earned yourself a case of natural light! thanks for that link.
DirtyBird222 wrote: oooh snorklewacker you may have earned yourself a case of natural light! thanks for that link.
Just beware... it has a lovely cage and all the right stuff but do have a compression/leakdown done. You don't want to find out the price is what it is because of guilt over a little mis-shift or tendency to pump air into the cooling system the first time you drive it hard.
Due dilligence - then pounce!
I am actually toying with the idea of selling my E46 for an E36 and some $$$. E36s are lighter, have a better aftermarket, are cheaper to buy and to prep for track duty. I love my E46 to death but it is a very nice car to be banging around Road America with.
Understoon giant, I'll take my trusty inspection tools with me and a lawyer brother who knows how to bargain(bullE36 M3).
Dustin,
My '99 328i has roughly 175k miles and at least half of a dozen track days under its belt.
They don't really "need" anything more than a bit of extra oil for the track. Replacing the cooling system and suspension bushings most enthusiasts will do anyways.
If you can do the work yourself (which as I recall you're more than capable of) budget about $1000 for maintenance items including the suspension bushings, cooling system, and misc stuff like valve cover gaskets.
As someone else said the only thing I'd really be on the lookout for is torn rear subframe mounts. They're most prevalent on the early '99 to '00 cars but it can happen to any of them. Its not a terribly expensive fix, just a PITA cause so much stuff has to come out. FWIW my car is in the "danger zone" and its fine. Just take a look underneath and it should be fairly obvious if its a problem.
For a dedicated track car I'd want something faster (hence why I bought a C5Z06). But I do think they're good dual purpose daily driver/occasional track day cars. Enough power that you're not a rolling chicane on the straights and good enough handling in the corners.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason
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