home made drop leaf springs

saw this described on a mustang forum but with no pics. basically you take a leaf spring pack, take another leaf (or two) from a different pack, flip it (them), and bolt the spring back together. effectively using one leaf against the rest to de-arch the pack for a drop.

i did a very crude and somewhat comical ms paint drawing to give the general idea.

what say the group? does this look safe or is it an exploding spring waiting to happen? i'm all for cheap/free ways to drop my truck especially since i plan for it to be a $201x vehicle and budget matters, but i also understand that $160 for a new pair of drop leaf springs is worth my safety if this doesn't look like a good idea. the guy that did it claims his buddy does it all the time and he had been running them on his car for 4 years.

It is really cheap it have a spring shop re-arch springs...

Just check out springs in the junk yard. That's what I'm going to do when I lift my Jeep.

93EXCivic wrote: It is really cheap it have a spring shop re-arch springs...

Getting hard to find shops that do that anymore. I have to take mine down to the border and have them down at a big diesel repair shop.

As and aside. Why not just remove springs and lower the car that way. The standard hot rod static drop.

93EXCivic wrote: It is really cheap it have a spring shop re-arch springs...

This can be done on a press.. Or with the spring set b/t two blocks and a cross peen hammer.

Just trace the Spring on a piece of cardboard or something and mark the spring in increments so you can bend fairly consistently.

Nothing to it but a bit of hard work.

I used this to de-arc a set of leafs:

I've since added a threaded stop underneath the leaf so I can ensure consistent tweaks.

wearymicrobe wrote: As and aside. Why not just remove springs and lower the car that way. The standard hot rod static drop.

But that would lower the spring rate, I've never met anyone who wanted a lower car with softer springs

My biggest concern is the residual stresses in the upside down leaves might be the wrong way and more prone to break. Not sure this is a major issue.

Or why not use lowering blocks?

+1 for lowering blocks. Why work so hard when there is a simple solution?

If the springs are mounted to the top of th axle tube you can move it to the bottom. Or move the spring mounts up.

Adrian_Thompson wrote:

wearymicrobe wrote: As and aside. Why not just remove springs and lower the car that way. The standard hot rod static drop.

But that would lower the spring rate, I've never met anyone who wanted a lower car with softer springs

Copy this idea: http://www.ridetech.com/store/airoverleaf/
Basically you remove a leaf or two and add either an air spring or coilover to the shock to make up for the difference. You also gain adjustability to some degree as well.

MadScientistMatt wrote: My biggest concern is the residual stresses in the upside down leaves might be the wrong way and more prone to break. Not sure this is a major issue. Or why not use lowering blocks?

Yeah, at least on old Mustangs, where the leaf is under the axle. This is by far the easiest and best way to lower it.

The blocks will increase the chances of axle wrap, too.

simple answers in my case:

do not want to lose spring rate or load carrying capacity, because although this is going to be an auto-x capable sonoma on steroids, it is also a truck, and as such i will be using it to carry things. like a riding mower or 800# of scrap or to run somewhere to pick up an engine/trans for a project.

already installed 2" blocks. it's not low enough. it only brought it level to the front. problem is i have 2" drop spindles on the way... so i need to drop 2" more in rear. IMHO blocks more than 2" are stupid and 4" is just way out of line.

i have been trying to find factory ZQ8 springs but it is needle in haystack or i'm too late to get the deals. on ebay used ones are $200 shipped, i can go to summit racing and get new aftermarket springs for $160 + tax. but i am cheap. and if i can avoid that cost i have room in my budget for the $1000 wheel/tire combo i have sitting here. that's how cheap i am, the truck as it sits has under $400 in it thus far.

93EXCivic wrote: It is really cheap it have a spring shop re-arch springs...

Yep. I've done this. Find a heavy truck spring shop.

...and yes basically they just put them in a press over some blocks.

Drop shackles or relocated shackle hanger?

nah s series trucks have the springs mounted as close to the frame as possible already. they are directly under the framerails unlike the fullsize trucks where all that stuff hangs off the side of the frame and you can just drill rivets and move it up.

this is what the rear stuff looks like

Don49 wrote: +1 for lowering blocks. Why work so hard when there is a simple solution?

Because anything over 1" of drop makes the handling go away. When I had my S10 in the good old days, I put a 1" block on it to level it out. Handling was just like stock. Now that I have a 2" block on my Dakota, it's an ill handling POS, the rear has a leaning over or running over the tire sensation, but I live with it. If I HAD the option or choice, I would have lowering springs and not blocks under it.

In reply to patgizz:

Have you looked at any of the circle track places to see if the Chevy or 2nd gen Camaro springs fit? I know they are a bit flatter then the trucks....

i had a giant chart of spring dimensions on my old computer before it imploded and i do not recall anything being the same as an s10.

i thought of camaro springs but of course.... i sold all mine. i think. i do not believe i have any more left.

i found these from summit racing which claim a 3" drop and are cheaper by far than any other lowering leaf springs

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/XYZ-82S10R3/

if i get a 3" drop from where i originally was i can get a 1" block to get 4". but i also know that 3" drop claims with springs... well. 3" from what? my truck seems to have sat a tad high in the back compared to any other s10 i've seen. maybe all the others have sagged worn out springs and mine are normal.

either way the truck is getting ZQ8 sway bars and depending on the condition of the control arm bushings it may be getting tubular uppers up front while i'm in there doing the drop spindles, ball joints, and tie rods. and the 17x8 soft 8's from the belair.