Honda Auto X question

I have a 1994 Acura Integra RS with its stock B18B motor that I want to begin tracking. It has CAI, DC headers, Type R cat, DC exhaust, Type R short shifter, slotted rotors and hawk brake pads. Other than that its mostly stock and unmolested.

parts of me wants to mod the car with turbo or ls/vtec but am not sure how this affects my class or if thats even something I should be worried about?

anybody race honda's? or got any advise? I dont want to do something and find out that because I swapped a part now Im in some class where my integra looks like herbie the love bug racing against vipers. lol.

A turbo will do that.

It's a great car as it sits, enjoy it and don't worry about class until your skills make a difference.

Autox? What sanctioning body?

Your car should still be legal for STX or STC

ST class car now.

Adding a turbo or engine swap puts you into SMF.

ProDarwin wrote: Autox? What sanctioning body? Your car should still be legal for STX or STC

Sorry still learning... so I know I want my car on a track. As for if that means AutoX, STX or STC, I have no clue what that means. So theres the disconnect I am having.

GRM... Could you come up with a table or something that could guide car owners to what class or sanctioning body that car should be in? Or maybe an article on the basics to it all?

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: ST class car now. Adding a turbo or engine swap puts you into SMF.

Not trying to be dense here but googling these acronyms are not getting me any closer. Where do I begin to research this?

Your sanctioning body that you want to race with/in.

In reply to Ranger50:

Ok Im in Tampa, Fl. What sanctioning body should I be in?

There is a copy of the rules here:

auto x

The rules are a bit intimidating on first read...

BTW, STC is Street Touring, Compact. STX is Street Touring, Xtreme

All of the terms and acronyms referred to in these posts are from SCCA Solo (autocross) events. Here's a place to start:

http://www.scca.com/solo/

I can explain some of them:

ST = Street Touring group. This group is especially designed for cars with similar prep levels to yours, running on DOT tires of 160 durometer or higher. STX is Street Touring Extreme, and is the only one of the group that allows limited slip differentials.

SMF = Street Modified Front-wheel-drive. This is the class I run in with my turbocharged Sentra. SMF is a pretty radical class, with all kinds of mods allowed. DOT-rated slicks with 50 durometer ratings are allowed; I run Hankook Z214 C71 slicks, which are pure race tires.

jdbuilder - you'll most likely want to start with the SCCA, which is the largest autocross sanctioning body and where most of these class acronyms are coming from. There are others out there as well, which may or may not be convenient to your location, like the BMWCCA or PCCA (BMW & Porche clubs, respectively).

I'd suggest starting out with the SCCA website and researching Solo competition, which is their term for autocross.

Really, do not worry about your car mods or what class you'll be in, it won't matter in the beginning at least. Just get out there and get some seat time. If you're worried about mods, just keep your motor stock for now. You'll have more fun and spend a lot less money. No matter what class your in, you'll need suspension and tires a lot worse than motor anyway.

In reply to jstein77:

I appreciate being pointed in the right direction and thanks for for putting up with the noob questions.

jdbuilder wrote: In reply to Ranger50: Ok Im in Tampa, Fl. What sanctioning body should I be in?

That means you're in the same SCCA region as I am, Central Florida region. Here's the website:

http://www.cfrsolo2.com/

I'm on the east coast in Melbourne. Until this year, we were holding west coast events in Brooksville, which is just north of you. I'm not sure why there aren't any on the schedule this year; perhaps you can contact the west coast coordinator Dave Welsh (dwelsh56@hotmail.com) and ask him if they are still planning any for this year. If you can travel as far east as Orlando, I could meet you at one of our events at Orange County Convention Center. The next one there is Sept. 15th and 16th. I'm one of the novice instructors for CFR, and I could show you the ropes.

Jerry

Matt B wrote: *SNIP* Really, do not worry about your car mods or what class you'll be in, it won't matter in the beginning at least. Just get out there and get some seat time. If you're worried about mods, just keep your motor stock for now. You'll have more fun and spend a lot less money. No matter what class your in, you'll need suspension and tires a lot worse than motor anyway.

You need to do this... Really.... X2

All sports cars, when they are first prepared for track use are hampered by the same issue: a loose nut behind the wheel. That nut needs to be tightened down before the car will be able to make use of any other performance modifications.

Seriously though, it sounds like you've never done any performance driving before. Your car sounds perfectly capable. Your skill level will be the limiting factor. The car will be capable of much more than you are now. Work on raising your skills before anything else (well, aside from safety and general maintenance). A car with less preparation will be easier to learn on and make you a better driver. By the time your skill level is up to the point where modifications will help you, you'll be ready to know what those should be.

You should be looking at Auto-X or some sort of HPDE (High Performance Driving Education/Experience).

Auto-X is a race against the clock on a tight closed course laid out with cones and chalk. Usually in someplace like a parking lot. If you really do have a competition itch, most sanctioning bodies have a "Novice" class where you will be able to drive against people with the same experience level you have. The guys who have been at it a couple years will wipe the floor with you.

HPDE is not racing. It is a chance to drive your car on a full-size track. You will get instruction and learn how to drive fast safely. If you do want to eventually race wheel-to-wheel, this is where that starts. You will still be several years out from competing though.

I apologize if these are things you already know. None of us here think you're an idiot. You're asking questions and (I presume) listening to answers which is the very best thing you can be doing right now. For now, you just need to enjoy the learning experience and not be in a hurry to be competitive. That will come with time and practice.

Another reason not to mod the car more before you start driving: More mods can often lead to reduced reliability. You want to spend as much of an event as possible in the driver's seat. If something breaks, you lose that time because you're making repairs. My first autocross, I just took my daily driver. Didn't even bring a set of "good" tires. For my first wheel-to-wheel school, I actually rented a car so that I could spend my time out of the car hanging out with my instructor, watching the other students, etc.

I know the other guys have already said it, but it can't be said enough. When you're first starting out, seat time is everything. Good luck, and welcome to "inside the fence"!

If you run with SCCA, you will be running in STC (class), that class includes

SCCA Rulebook STC elgibility said: Acura Integra (1986-2001) Audi A4 (1.8T) TT Coupe & Roadster (nonquattro) Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Neon Ford Escort GT (1991-96) ZX2 & Excort ZX2 (1998-2003) Honda Civic (1984-2000) Hyundai Tiburon (V6) (2003-08) Mazda 323 GT & GTX Protege (NOC) (1999-2003) Protege MP3 Nissan 240SX Sentra SE-R (1991-94) NX2000 (1991-94) Saturn SL SW SC Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS (1998-2001) Toyota Celica (non-turbo) (1986-2005) Corolla (1984-91) Volkswagen Beetle (1.8T & TDI) Golf (1.8T & TDI) Jetta (1.8T & TDI) Passat (1.8T & TDI) Volvo S40 (non-T5) V40 Sedans & Coupes NOC (nonsports- car-based; 4-seat minimum; up to 3.1L normally aspirated)

That is of course wiht the understanding that you arent forgetting about some modification on the car. (rim/tire size? and a few other things)

Run the car just like it is for a year or so. GET ALL THE SEATTIME YOU CAN. Do not be frustrated when you get your doors blown off by cars you think should be much slower. Autocross is a learned skill, you couldnt expect to enter a tennis/swimming/rockclimbing tournament and do well your first time, right?

Sounds like you are lucky that you havent modded the car more than you have yet. A turbo will put you in class SMF (street mod fwd) where you will be against cars running DOT-R compound tires and likely tuned within an inch of their lives with weight removed (within rules). Most of thes cars that are competitive would be trailered to events.

The car should be quite fun just like it is. Don't go out and mod it until you have driven it at several events. When you do get ready, sit down with the rulebook and make sure what you want is legal within your selected class. If I were you I would stay with STC class as ST-catagory classes are good places for lightly tuned cars (meaning, still pleasant to drive on the street).

Go out, have fun, tighten the loose nut behind the wheel. I have been at it 8 years now and I am still working on it.

Only "mods" to think about are decent brakes and tires.

Bleed your brakes. You want good, fresh brake fluid.

Are the tires fairly decent and relatively fresh? Tires matter. A lot. Don't jump strait to R-Compound tires, but you don't want to have on the cheapest all-season rubber there is out there.

You have hawk pads. They'll be fine for a while. They do have several different compounds that really are optimal for different applications. I like the HP+ for open track. HPS is my favorite for mixed street and Auto-X (also good for open track when you're learning).

Those slotted rotors might not be a good thing. They tend to look cool more than actually being functional. The uneven surface can cause weak points. Unless you spent a lot of money on them, stock blanks will probably be superior, especially when you start driving the car harder.

This is exactly the feedback I have been looking for. Being so new to this, it's been difficult to decipher the information. Really never knew all I had to do is show up. Thought I would need to prep my car etc beforehand. I already put the wife on notice for sept and have the DVR set to record the games.

First the car must be in good condition, before any mods. 50 extra HP won't do much if all of the shocks/struts are dead or one of the wheels locks up because the caliper is froze. So start there and follow the suggestions given.

Pick a sanctioning body and read the rule book?

1st watch this. It will give you a great view of how an autocross is ran. Its a great video for new guys.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cDsmBexSd8

2nd, don't worry about more mods to the car. Seat time will help you more than any mod you can buy.

3rd, no really, seat time is everything.

4th, don't expect to go out there and spank everyone your first time out. We all sucked balls our first several events (see points 2 & 3).

5th, ask questions. Every autocorss I have ever been to has been full of people who were just like you at some point, and are happy to help newbs learn to enjoy the sport as they do.

6th. Ride with other drivers if you have the chance. You will learn a lot by riding with experienced drivers.

7th. attend a drivers school. Most regions have a drivers school once a year. I know at my local region (Kentucky), you can get a whole seasons worth of seat time (noticing a trend here? ) in one weekend.

And the final point.................. HAVE FUN!!!!!! thats what this sport is all about!!!!