Honda J series thread. Tech Info| Grassroots Motorsports forum |

Flight Service MegaDork
3/8/16 2:38 p.m.

Specs, Tech info, Dimensional drawings, anything and everything about the Honda J-series V6 engine. Slap it in here.

J Series Engine Specs J25

The J25A was the first J-series engine produced. It was only used in the export-model Inspire/Saber models, however. The J25A displaced 2.5 L (~153 cu in) and was an SOHC Gasoline direct injection VTEC design. Output was 192 hp (143 kW).

J25A 1998-2003 Honda Inspire 1999 Honda Saber

J30

The J30 displaces 3.0 L (~183 cu in) and is a SOHC VTEC design. Output for the light weight 250 lb (110 kg) J30A1 was 200 hp (150 kW) and 195 lb·ft (264 N·m) of torque. The J30A4 pushed output to 240 hp (180 kW) and 212 lb·ft (287 N·m) using a three-way VTEC system, higher (10:1) compression ratio, and a novel exhaust manifold cast as one piece with the cylinder head. It weighs nearly 20 lb (9.1 kg) lighter and is an inch shorter than J30A1. This version was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 2003 and 2004. The IMA hybrid version was on the list for 2005. In 2006 to mark the 30th anniversary of the Accord, Honda created the J30A5, which boosted output to 244 hp (SAE Net 08/04) and 211 ft·lbf (SAE Net 08/04) of torque. According to Honda, horsepower gains were achieved with extensive improvements to the airflow of the intake and exhaust system.

J30A1 1997-1999 Acura 3.0CL 1999-2003 Honda Avancier 1998-2002 Honda Accord V6 J30A4 2003-2005 Honda Accord V6 J30A5 2006-2007 Honda Accord V6 Variable Cylinder Management 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid 2003-2007 Honda Inspire

J32

The J32 displaces 3.2 L (~195 cu in) and is a SOHC VTEC design. Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 86 mm (3.4 in). Output was 225 hp (168 kW) for the J32A1, with the J32A2 raising output to 260 hp (194 kW) @ 6200 rpm and 232 lb·ft (315 N·m) @ 3500-5500 rpm. A more aggressive camshaft, freer flowing intake/exhaust, and a 2-stage intake manifold all result in a 35 hp (26 kW) increase over the J32A1. The J32A3's output in the 2004/2005 TL is 270 hp (201 kW). SAE corrected hp for the 2006-2008 TL is 258 hp (192 kW). The J32A3 also includes the one-piece exhaust manifold cast with the cylinder head, first introduced on the J30A4.

J32A1 1999-2003 Acura TL 2001-2003 Acura CL 1998-2003 Honda Inspire J32A2 2001-2003 Acura CL Type-S 2002-2003 Acura TL Type-S J32A3 2004-2008 Acura TL

J35

J35Z2The J35 displaced 3.5 L (3471 cc, 212 cu in) and is an SOHC VTEC design. Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 93 mm (3.7 in). Output was 210 hp (157 kW) for the J35A1; 240 hp (179 kW) and 253 ft·lbf (343 N·m) (5800/4400 rpm) for the J35A3; 240 hp (179 kW) and 242 ft·lbf (328 N·m) (5500/4500 rpm) for the J35A4.

The J35A5 used in the 2004 - 2006 Acura MDX produces 265 hp (198 kW) at 5800 rpm and 250 ft·lbf (339 N·m) at 3500 rpm. The 2003 version of this engine produces 260 hp (194 kW) at 5750 rpm.

The new J35 used in the Acura RL produces 290 hp (220 kW) at 6200 rpm and 256 lb·ft (347 N·m) at 5000 rpm. This engine was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 2005 and 2008.

The J35A9 used in the 2006 - 2008 Honda Ridgeline produces 247 hp (184 kW) at 5750 rpm and 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) at 4500 rpm.

The J35A3 was also used by General Motors in the 2004-2007 Saturn Vue, though it utilized the cast-iron crankshaft from the J35A4 rather than the forged-steel version of the J35A3. GM refers to it as the L66.

J35A1 1999 - 2001 Honda Odyssey J35A3 2001 - 2002 Acura MDX 2005 - 2008 Acura RL 2004 - 2007 Saturn Vue L66 J35A4 2002 - 2004 Honda Odyssey 2003 - 2004 Honda Pilot J35A6 2005 - 2009 Honda Odyssey Van, LX, EX 2005 Honda Pilot J35A7 - Variable Cylinder Management 2005-2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L, Touring 2007-present Honda Inspire J35A8 2007 - 2008 Acura TL Type-S J35A9 2006 - 2008 Honda Ridgeline 2006 - 2008 Honda Pilot (VTM-4-equipped models) J35Z1 - Variable Cylinder Management 2006 - 2008 Honda Pilot (front-wheel drive models)

J35Z2 - Variable Cylinder Management 2008+ Honda Accord (except V6 6MT coupe) Displacement: 3,471 cc (211.8 cu in) Bore and stroke: 89.0 mm (3.5 in) x 93.0 mm (3.7 in) Compression: 10.5:1 Power, torque: 271 hp (202 kW) @ 6200 rpm; 254 ft·lbf (344 N·m) @ 5000 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC i-VTEC Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

J35Z3 2008+ Honda Accord V6 6MT coupe Displacement: 3,471 cc (211.8 cu in) Bore and stroke: 89.0 mm (3.5 in) x 93.0 mm (3.7 in) Compression: 10.0:1 Power, torque: 271 hp (202 kW) @ 6200 rpm; 251 ft·lbf (340 N·m) @ 5000 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

J35Z4 - Variable Cylinder Management 2009 Honda Pilot Displacement: 3,471 cc (211.8 cu in) Bore and stroke: 89.0 mm (3.5 in) x 93.0 mm (3.7 in) Compression: 10.5:1 Power, torque: 250 hp (190 kW) @ 5700 rpm; 253 ft·lbf (343 N·m) @ 4800 rpm Valvetrain: 24 SOHC i-VTEC Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

J35Z5 2009 Honda Ridgeline Displacement: 3,471 cc (211.8 cu in) Bore and stroke: 89.0 mm (3.5 in) x 93.0 mm (3.7 in) Compression: 10.0:1 Power, torque: 250 hp (190 kW) @ 5700 rpm; 247 ft·lbf (335 N·m) @ 4300 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC Fuel control: Multi-point fuel inection; PGM-FI

J37

J37A1 2007+ Acura MDX Displacement: 3,664 cc (223.6 cu in) Bore and stroke: 90 mm (3.5 in) x 96.0 mm (3.8 in) Compression: 11.0:1 Power; torque: 300 hp (220 kW) @ 6000 rpm; 275 ft·lbf (373 N·m) @ 5000 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

J37A2 2009 Acura RL Displacement: 3,664 cc (223.6 cu in) Bore and stroke: 90 mm (3.5 in) x 96.0 mm (3.8 in) Compression: 11.2:1 Power; torque: 300 hp (220 kW) @ 6300 rpm; 271 ft·lbf (367 N·m) @ 5000 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC (intake and exhaust) Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

J37A4 2009 Acura TL SH-AWD Displacement: 3,664 cc (223.6 cu in) Bore and stroke: 90 mm (3.5 in) x 96.0 mm (3.8 in) Compression: 11.2:1 Power; torque: 305 hp (227 kW) @ 6300 rpm; 273 ft·lbf (370 N·m) @ 5000 rpm Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC (intake and exhaust) Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI

Flight Service MegaDork
3/8/16 2:39 p.m.

Here are the swap options along with brief advantage(s)/disadvantage(s):

BLOCK/HEADS (incl. manifold (upper/lower), tb)

J30A1/J30A1 advantage: no modification needed. disadvantage: no torque until turbo/sc kicks in.

J30A1/J32A2 advantage: mid-range and top-end power disadvantage: J30A1 pistons have to be modified to fit large J32A2 (intake) valves. Not much torque until turbo/sc kicks in.

J32A2/J32A2 advantage: no modification needed, mid-range, top-end power. disadvantage: torque is still ok but better than J30A1

J35A4/J30A1 (Odyssey '02-04/ '00-02 Accord V6) advantage: no modifications needed, adequate torque, adequate mid-range disadvantage:needed better cams, large intake valves for overal better powerband, top-end power

Option 1: If budget is limited the solution is to swap J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) cams into stock J30A1(Accord V6) cyl. heads (see sticky CL-S swap and Cam machining).

Option 2: Get J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) complete cyl. heads + IM (intake manifold) But requires different pistons (see J35/J32 below) to clear J32A2 valves.

J35A3/J35A3 (Acura MDX '01-02), J35A4/J35A4 (Honda Odyssey '02-04) advantage: no modifications needed, great torque, nice mid-range disadvantage: little less air flow than J32A2 but very close.

This option looks like a good choice if getting the complete engine or even separate short block and cyl. heads/manifold due to a price. And MDX the cyl. heads are the same part # as CL-S, however intake valves and cams are different than CL-S but overall much better than pathetic AV6.

J35A1/J32A2 (Odyssey '01/CL-S '01-03) advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque. disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.

Note: Same options apply as listed below.

J35A3/J32A2 ('01-02 MDX/CL-S '01-03) or J35A4/J32A2 (Odyssey '02-04/CL-S '01-03) advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque. disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.

There are also couple options:

Option 1 With '01-02 complete MDX block or '02-04 Odyssey complete block (crank/rods/pistons) it is required to purchase 2005 Acura RL pistons (new set $50 each) This is a best option still since these pistons have clearance for large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves thus no modification needed. Despite the fact they have higher 11.0:1 CR still even supercharger can be used here with low boost up to 7psi intercooled (assuming safe AFR). In addition, if 11:1 CR is too high for you, you can use '03 CL-S pistons with 10.5:1 CR.

Option 2 '01-03 J32A2 block (CL-S) Required to purchase the following:

-= hondaautomotiveparts.com =- '02-'04 Odyssey (crankshaft) Product No. 368270 or Honda part #13310-PGK-A00

'02-'04 Odyssey (connecting rod) Product No. 368269 or Honda part #13210-PGK-A00

Main bearings + rod bearings

-= acuraautomotiveparts.org =- '03 CL-S (pistons) - 10.5:1 CR or '05 RL (pistons) - 11.0:1 CR

pistons rings (per chosen model)

Note: Odyssey pistons do not have clearance to fit large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves. Solution - custom job to increase valve pockets.

BTW, The only advantage to get J32A2 block is due to better cylinder sleeves to withstand heat designed for higher redline vehicle, otherwise depending on the price Odyssey or MDX block are the best bet.

Keep in mind, J35A5 '03-04 MDX will not fit on 6th gen. AV6/CL/TL/CL-S/TL-S due to different design, and looks like only for 7th gen. AV6.

Edit: The correct valve dimensions now stand as follows: incl. J30A4/J32A4

J30A1 '98-02 AV6: 34mm/29mm (intake/exhaust) J30A4 '03+ AV6: 35mm/30mm

J32A1 '01-03' TL/CL: 34mm/30mm J32A2 '01-03 TL-S/CL-S: 36mm/30mm J32A4 '04+ TL: 35mm/30mm

J35A1 '99-01 Odyssey: 34mm/29mm J35A4 '02-04 Odyssey: 35mm/30mm

icaneat50eggs Dork
3/8/16 2:44 p.m.

is this for the Miata swap kit?

Tyler H GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/8/16 2:48 p.m.

Are you mounting transverse or longitudinal? Best bet is usually to buy a whole donor.

J32A2 (2003 CL-S) gets you an LSD if you're keeping the transmission. If not, that tranny is worth more bare than you can buy a salvage CL-S for, so there's a free donor. This version still has traditional exhaust headers and cable throttle.

J35 out of the 2004-06 TL-S gets you the same transmission, however they went to drive-by-wire and have the exhaust manifold cast into the heads. Also Brembo brakes.

Regardless of your project aspirations, those are the two best donors. Like I said, free if you buy a salvage auction car and sell the transmission. If you need the transmission, it's the best one anyway.

Flight Service MegaDork
3/8/16 9:26 p.m.

What about the J37 from the 2010+ to SH-AWD?

Most power, most torque lighter weight

drdisque Reader
3/8/16 9:56 p.m.

Just for completeness, is a J-series from a Saturn VUE identical to one of these or does it use incompatible GM electronics?

Tyler H GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/9/16 6:41 a.m.

Flight Service wrote: What about the J37 from the 2010+ to SH-AWD? Most power, most torque lighter weight

The 2007-09 TL-S got even bigger Brembos. I don't know much about the specs on the manual transmission when they did the model year switchover in 2010 and introduced the J37. It didn't carry over to the TLX, you get the DCT + torque converter box in the new car.

Honda dropped the cast-iron cylinder liners when they went to the J37. I think the die-cast aluminum block has unlined bores.

Tyler H GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/9/16 6:55 a.m.

drdisque wrote: Just for completeness, is a J-series from a Saturn VUE identical to one of these or does it use incompatible GM electronics?

I was investigating these for the purpose of Chumpcar swap math. Unfortunately, the Saturn labeled version is more expensive than the equivalent Honda version. They never came with a manual, so there's that.

Bad journalism from 13 years ago. http://www.caranddriver.com/news/the-shock-of-a-hondafied-vue-car-news

"In all, GM thinks it will be able to move every one of the 50,000 engines per year it will get from Japan."

The J engine was designed and built in Ohio.

Flight Service MegaDork
3/9/16 2:35 p.m.

Tyler H wrote:
Flight Service wrote: What about the J37 from the 2010+ to SH-AWD? Most power, most torque lighter weight
The 2007-09 TL-S got even bigger Brembos. I don't know much about the specs on the manual transmission when they did the model year switchover in 2010 and introduced the J37. It didn't carry over to the TLX, you get the DCT + torque converter box in the new car. Honda dropped the cast-iron cylinder liners when they went to the J37. I think the die-cast aluminum block has unlined bores.

Yeah the J37 has nikisil impregnated cast in aluminum liners (would they be called liners if they are actually part of the block?)

Flight Service MegaDork
3/10/16 11:14 a.m.

Weights:

Obviously very inconsistent based on accessories and fluids but here is close as I can find.

J30 ~250 lbs J32 ~ J35 ~210 lbs to 375 lbs with accesories J37 ~185 to ~350 with accesories (25 lbs ligher than a J35)

Any help flushing this out with accurate sources would be great.

Edit: Found on the Locost site.

2000 J32A1 from an Acura TL.

As pulled from the car, exhaust, a/c compressor, alternator, flexplate, wiring harness, but no p/s pump. 399.7 lbs

Flight Service MegaDork
3/20/16 4:04 p.m.

LS1 vs J series

Coyote

beans Dork
3/24/16 9:55 a.m.

GM J-series also had fully cast internals.

Flight Service MegaDork
3/25/16 1:56 p.m.

In reply to beans:

That is good to know

Flight Service MegaDork
3/25/16 7:04 p.m.

http://www.marcuccimotorsports.com/jobs/J-series/Honda%20V6%20Engines.xls

Work and PN#s courtesy of Marcucci Motorsports and retrieved from http://www.ntpog.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3346&page=2

Honda J-Series and part numbers

Excel spreadsheet from Marcucci Motorsports for what is seen above. They are responsible for all work seen in this post.

Flight Service MegaDork
3/28/16 8:27 a.m.

J37 intake with B series Throttle body on J32/35 for better flow and lower hood line.

Flight Service MegaDork
11/1/16 10:11 a.m.

Some more stuff from the NSXPrime forum - J-swapped NSX

I wrote this all motor post for a different forum. Just copy and pasting it here. Almost everything here should be utilized for your turbo build. I would just change the motor. I would go out and buy a J35a3 from a 01-02 MDX. You will thank me later from the steel sleeves, to the best flowing heads. This is just for a average builder on a budget. For you we could get over 1000whp with sleeves, aftermarket rods and pistons.

(WARNING Due to a lack of an aftermarket, most of the f/i, all motor builds will be decently similar)

Just going to write a guide real quick off the top of my head to get the ball rolling.

Lets Break down the Motor into certain Parts. Theres always the top half and bottom half of the motor to go by but i want to get more specific. There are so many different variations that its almost impossible for me to list everything. I'm just going to post the best I can for average swapped car. If you'll be looking for serious power, just ask.

ALL MOTOR

-Top Half

Lets go from the intake filter to the valves.

The intake- Honestly, the intake is not a serious power gaining platform unless your build is serious. I'd recommend a stock air box with a K&N filter for most people. But if you have a J32a2, J35a3/4 you definitely want to gain some power via the intake your going to need a custom sheet metal intake. From a 5-4.5" velocity stack to a 3.5-3" piping. Not kidding you will see a gain from 10-20whp with this. My fried Kiet (J35a8 swapped into a 7th gen coupe proved it to me with his car, those dbw engines don't even have a tuning solution either so thats saying something). The Filter, id recommend a HKS Mushroom or a AEM/K&N Dryflow filter.

The Throttle Body- This is uncontested. The Blox 76mm TB is by far the way to go. You will need an adapter (will have to be custom) to mount it. My friend Jake, JCharged on V6P, makes them. Shoot him an inbox and hell be more then able to help you out.

The Intake Manifold - For the J swapped cars, hood clearance is always a problem. Easy solution, the J37 manifold from a 09 TL SH-AWD. They flow the best out of any mainfold, look the best, and have 0 clearance issues. Don't bother looking for a used one, just buy it new from Acura for about $260. 1hondaparts.com (17160-RK2-A00) is the cheapest place to buy honda/acura parts (vandergriff honda in texas). Now for the cover plate you have two options. A honda one off the 08 accord v6, or the 09 TL SH-AWD (about $100 more then the honda one). You will also need custom bolts made to bolt it to the motor, (Give me a little bit for the exact specs I have to find them) (I got mine from Bolt Depot for something like $15 shipped). If you still want to use the J32a2 or J35a3/4 manifold to flow like the J37 one, you will need to port it, switch to 2002 acura MDX Velocity stacks. Also P2R makes all the gaskets for the throttle body and intake manifold, don't forget to pick those up.

My Recommendation: AEM Dryflow Filter, Custom Sheet metal Intake, Blox 76mm TB, Custom adapter plate that also acts as spacer, J37 intake manifold, Honda cover plate, every P2R gaskets.

The Head, I will break this down to smaller sections

Ok for the head you only have a few options available at this time.

Complete Stock Head - The Best stock Head is from the J35a3 or the J32a2. The J32a2 has the best cams. The J35a3 has the best flowing ones, 35mm valves (10% lighter then the 36mm ones and flow better. Believe it or not the 36mm valves were for emissions not for performance. Why do you think all the other J series motors use 35mm valves?) I would go with J35a3 heads in a heartbeat. Just throw the J32a2 cams in it and your good to go.

Cams - I will start with this because this is what everyone is interested in. The most aggressive cams are the Manual J32a2 cams. Ive heard back and forth between people claiming the J32a2 auto cams are the same exact but my friend Don from RPM System say the manual cams are the best to go with for an oem cam. I will take his word over anyone else's. For aftermarket cams you have three options. 1. Bisimoto. 2. Gude 3. Custom. If it was me, I would buy the Gude cams. They're cheaper then the Bisimoto ones and honestly, Bisimoto is a person I would try to stay away from. He has been under a lot of heat recently and lost his way. He's been getting called out by many angry customers and his customer service is second to none in the worst possible way. I'm not going to get into a whole essay about how Bisi is a pos in this thread. Also, I do not trust any man who wears tight jeans, skin tight shirts, and big ugly designer sunglasses to car shows. (my poor attempt at comedy).

The Valvetrain - Stay away from Bisi once again. I use his valve train and I'm not impressed. I should have went with KMS. KMS buys the valve train from supertech, rebadges them and sells them for amazing cheap. KMS sells a whole J series kit complete with valves, springs, retainers, block guard, ect all for $500. KMS makes great stuff and I will be using they're products from now on at any chance I have.

Porting - There are many different ways you can go about this. I would take the head to a machine shop (find one that does a lot of supras ) and have them raceport it.

Gaskets: Go with a cometic Head gasket if you have the chance. The thickness depends on what your trying to build. Obviously go with a thin one for an all motor setup for that compression.

My Recommendation. J35a3 Heads, Full Raceport, Gude Cams, KMS Valvetrain, and a Cometic Head Gasket.

-Bottom Half

Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.

Lets start with stock bottom ends.

For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.

J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well A nice 10:5:1 compression ratio for an all motor build is always a good thing. Also leaving you a little breathing room for some room for boost or spray later on.

J35a3 - For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up. Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. This is why this is theory The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.

J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.

My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.

Custom Stroker Builds:

The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.

The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray.

Updated - - -

You won't see a lot of power out of a DBW J series. MAYBE high 400s. A DBC J series have seen 720whp on pump gas with a 67 trim on a daily driver tune.

Flight Service MegaDork
11/1/16 10:29 a.m.

Unanimous factory best cams PN# 14100-RJA-000 14200-RJA-000 for '05 RL