A factory hood latch is no longer an option due to the way the center of the radiator support got smashed and had to be hammered back out. So Hood pins it is. I know how to mount the posts but, how the Berkley do you make sure you're drilling the holes in the hood straight and exactly lined up with the post?
Is the correct way or not, I would mount the posts then I'd close the hood with just enough force to dimple the hood where the posts hit and then drove from the bottom up. Or maybe some wet paint on the bottom of the hood, so the post we'll make a mark in the wet paint when the hood is closed that way you don't risk bending the posts.
I've never done this so I don't know if it's the correct way or not it just a thought.
I mount the posts then put a dab of grease on the top. That way you just have to lightly close the hood on top of them and it marks where to drill. Paint would work just as well I imagine.
When I did the ones on my Mustang I installed the pins on the radiator support and then coated the tops of them with white out. Close the hood (gently) while still wet and it transfers to the underside of the hood. Drill up with a tiny drill bit (1/8" or less) on the marks, then drill down using a unibit to get the correct diameter. Make sure to cover the top surface with masking tape before drilling if you care about the paint.
This was on a brand new hood just back from the paint shop and it worked out fine. It only took me 4 tries to get the courage to drill the first hole in a brand new hood. 
Check out Aerocatch flush-mount hood pins. Much easier on your aero and the eyes than the old type, and there are key-lockable options which would be good for a street car.
GameboyRMH said:Check out Aerocatch flush-mount hood pins. Much easier on your aero and the eyes than the old type, and there are key-lockable options which would be good for a street car.
Thought about this. The front 6 inches of my hood has 2 layers of sheet metal with about 3/4 inch between them. My paranoia is getting the holes drilled so as to go through both layers at an angle equal to straight up, because the front slopes down about 15-odd degrees relative to the straight up direction of the posts.
Edit: Thinking holesaw through the first layer, big enough that I don't have to worry about it. Thoughts?
You can drill the first hole in the bottom layer then reapply the grease and shut the hood so the pins contact the top layer.
I just marked it on the bottom layer and drilled through both layers of hood eyeballing the alignment, I didn't have any issues.
WildScotsRacing said:GameboyRMH said:Check out Aerocatch flush-mount hood pins. Much easier on your aero and the eyes than the old type, and there are key-lockable options which would be good for a street car.
Thought about this. The front 6 inches of my hood has 2 layers of sheet metal with about 3/4 inch between them. My paranoia is getting the holes drilled so as to go through both layers at an angle equal to straight up, because the front slopes down about 15-odd degrees relative to the straight up direction of the posts.
Edit: Thinking holesaw through the first layer, big enough that I don't have to worry about it. Thoughts?
Could work for an Aerocatch-type, because they need a big hole anyway.
EvanB and Gameboy, thanks guys. Both of those will do it. Now I just have to decide which way I want to do it.
Step-bit from the top side is great advice here. A large enough normal bit is going to chew up the sheetmetal. If you're using traditional hood pins, they come with a plate that will cover your drilling sins.
Tether your pins to one of the four sheetmetal screws that secure each plate. I use a 6" piece of wire and crimp ring terminals on both ends for this.
I'd wager that forgotten hood pins have ruined almost as many races as blown engines.
In reply to Tyler H :
Good idea with the step bit. I had also forgotten that the plate is more than big enough to cover a goo sized hole in the hood, so getting the hole dead-on is not needed. And, you just gave me an idea for the cable tethers 
The easy answer is to install the pins and string a piece of masking tape across side to side just behind and just in front of the pins. Measure in from each side to the center of each pin and write the distance on the chunk of tape on the fender.
Cut the tape at the edge of the hood opening and remove the pins. Close the hood and string two new pieces of tape across on top of the two pieces on each fender. Measure out to the center of the pin and drill the hole between the two strips of tape now on the hood.
oldopelguy said:The easy answer is to install the pins and string a piece of masking tape across side to side just behind and just in front of the pins. Measure in from each side to the center of each pin and write the distance on the chunk of tape on the fender.
Cut the tape at the edge of the hood opening and remove the pins. Close the hood and string two new pieces of tape across on top of the two pieces on each fender. Measure out to the center of the pin and drill the hole between the two strips of tape now on the hood.
That sounds a lot un-easier than transferring the marks via grease, paint, or white out.
93gsxturbo said:oldopelguy said:The easy answer is to install the pins and string a piece of masking tape across side to side just behind and just in front of the pins. Measure in from each side to the center of each pin and write the distance on the chunk of tape on the fender.
Cut the tape at the edge of the hood opening and remove the pins. Close the hood and string two new pieces of tape across on top of the two pieces on each fender. Measure out to the center of the pin and drill the hole between the two strips of tape now on the hood.
That sounds a lot un-easier than transferring the marks via grease, paint, or white out.
I actually understand what is being described. I think it would only take a couple of minutes.
There's always the lipstick method too. That's how carpenters install deadbolt locks. Put some CHEAP lipstick, not the wife's super special stuff, but some CHEAP stuff kept in the tool box just for that purpose on the end of the pin, gently lower the hood until touching, raise and drill a hole at the lipstick mark.
Or, how about put the pins in, lower the hood, whap with a rubber mallet, drill at the indentations?
Those Aerocatch things look interesting. I may have to get a set for a Europa.
I use grease and it goes quick. For attaching the lanyards I put the scuff plates on with rivets, knock the what’s left if the shaft out, pass the lanyard through the rivet and crimp an unused rivet onto the underhood end of it so it can’t pull through.
GameboyRMH said:Check out Aerocatch flush-mount hood pins. Much easier on your aero and the eyes than the old type, and there are key-lockable options which would be good for a street car.
And a really easy way to to get those totally lined up and matching on either side is a tip from our car friends from down unda Mcm
The operation is scheduled for this evening.
Trackmouse said:GameboyRMH said:Check out Aerocatch flush-mount hood pins. Much easier on your aero and the eyes than the old type, and there are key-lockable options which would be good for a street car.
And a really easy way to to get those totally lined up and matching on either side is a tip from our car friends from down unda Mcm
At 5:51 I recalled JG's article, "So you've drilled through your own hand."
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