Tom F wrote:
that's the plan, I was going to use a foxbody rear end so there would be lots of final drive options to play around with as well as being cheap and readily available
I always thought that 3rd/4th-gen F-body had a great swappable rear. There's really no geometry to worry about, since it's a torque arm setup. Make the lower links and the Panhard parallel with the ground and you're done.
Sure, it takes up a bunch of real estate, but that isn't a problem if you have to move a lot of metal anyway. And all of the disadvantages that is has, are the same disadvantages that a 7.5 or an 8.8 have.
4cylndrfury wrote:
unevolved wrote:
Is it weird I don't see the point to that build? Or am I just so messed up that I think a Miata is too large?
the door is over there...please see your way out. There will be someone at the front gate to collect your credentials. Please have a nice life.
Wow. That was harsh. Tough crowd today.
GRM Entusiast Guidebook; section 11, subset B2, paragraph 4 said:
Thou shalt not post to the Forum message board device any suggestive literature, commentary, heresay, rigamooraw, hullabaloo, nonsense, ideology, heresy, or any other conveyance of information or thought that should in any way deter another user from the idea that Miatae are the end all and be all of automotive funnery. Any user found to be in breach of this ruling will be shown the door, told where to hand off their credentials and asked to enjoy the rest of their life.
All I was doing was following protocol
...oh and the wink was supposed to be a tip off...
4cylndrfury wrote:
GRM Entusiast Guidebook; section 11, subset B2, paragraph 4 said:
Thou shalt not post to the Forum message board device any suggestive literature, commentary, heresay, rigamooraw, hullabaloo, nonsense, ideology, heresy, or any other conveyance of information or thought that should in any way deter another user from the idea that Miatae are the end all and be all of automotive funnery. Any user found to be in breach of this ruling will be shown the door, told where to hand off their credentials and asked to enjoy the rest of their life.
All I was doing was following protocol
...oh and the wink was supposed to be a tip off...
Yeah, sorry. Missed that part...
I am now considering something like this...but in a Spitfire or Spridget. Where can one find the adapter to convert the sprocket output to a driveshaft? How long could the gears be expected to last pulling a 1500# car?
Mikey52_1 wrote:
4cylndrfury wrote:
GRM Entusiast Guidebook; section 11, subset B2, paragraph 4 said:
Thou shalt not post to the Forum message board device any suggestive literature, commentary, heresay, rigamooraw, hullabaloo, nonsense, ideology, heresy, or any other conveyance of information or thought that should in any way deter another user from the idea that Miatae are the end all and be all of automotive funnery. Any user found to be in breach of this ruling will be shown the door, told where to hand off their credentials and asked to enjoy the rest of their life.
All I was doing was following protocol
...oh and the wink was supposed to be a tip off...
Yeah, sorry. Missed that part...
ha it happens, no sweat...
just dont let t happen again...
EvanB wrote:
I am now considering something like this...but in a Spitfire or Spridget. Where can one find the adapter to convert the sprocket output to a driveshaft? How long could the gears be expected to last pulling a 1500# car?
All I could find in there about the shaft extension is this photo:
but it doesnt give much detail about how it mounts up. he did say the mock piece was hollow, and it would be followed with something solid, so my guess is if theyve got access to a CNC that will mill billet, they probably have a mill and a rotary head to make custom splined shafts as well.
vazbmw
Reader
8/8/10 2:00 p.m.
Has anyone considered using the starter motor running in reverse for reverse gear? All you would need is a switch that switches the current in revers direction to run it backwards.
may need a bit of work to run and automotive starter...but
http://www.ba-enterprises.net/shop/product.php?productid=16202&cat=295&page=1
It looks like this goes on the splined output shaft on the engine then bolts to the driveshaft?
4cylndrfury wrote:
no no no dont get me wrong the VQ route is plenty entertaining as well...would be fun to see which one does better - bulk'd up displacement or adding lightness? on the 1320 Id think the VQ wins hands down, but as soon as you have to use the steering wheel, Id say nimble may have an edge...
It's not going to be as heavy as you think. With as much as we can strip out of it, I don't think we're going to be over 2500lbs. With the wide wheels and road racing slicks we've got, we'll have plenty of grip.
Thats good to hear. Whats the weight difference between the stock mazda mill and the VQ? How is weight distibution handled? Power to weight possibilities are pretty awesome with your build!
EvanB wrote:
I am now considering something like this...but in a Spitfire or Spridget. Where can one find the adapter to convert the sprocket output to a driveshaft? How long could the gears be expected to last pulling a 1500# car?
Hawk Products
I would think with a bike engine and a little fiberglass a Spit or Spridget should be well under 1500lbs. I think many of the BEC guys are in the 1100-1300 range over on Locostusa.com, so it may be worth a look over there to check longevity.
4cylndrfury wrote:
Thats good to hear. Whats the weight difference between the stock mazda mill and the VQ? How is weight distibution handled? Power to weight possibilities are pretty awesome with your build!
It's about 70 lbs, IIRC, but we're adding a turbo and its associated accessories, so I'm really not sure what it's going to wind up being. The transmission (VG30DETT) is heavier than a Miata unit by (I'd guess) about 30 lbs. The engine is set pretty far back, so weight distribution and polar moment of inertia shouldn't be hurt, and possibly improved.
Fun fact: At last count, we had parts from 8 different cars on this vehicle. 
Sorry. Thread hijacking over.
I just weighted a VQ30DE yesterday, it was 240lbs with no manifolds or anything, just a plain long block. Not bad for 190BHP/210ft-lbs stock.
And you would need a 350z/G35 6 speed with it. I think they are in the 120-150 range. But who cares, its a super strong box and that weight is low and in the middle of the car. VG trans only works with an adapter.
~Alex
Tom F
New Reader
8/9/10 3:27 a.m.
Knurled wrote:
Tom F wrote:
that's the plan, I was going to use a foxbody rear end so there would be lots of final drive options to play around with as well as being cheap and readily available
I always thought that 3rd/4th-gen F-body had a great swappable rear. There's really no geometry to worry about, since it's a torque arm setup. Make the lower links and the Panhard parallel with the ground and you're done.
Sure, it takes up a bunch of real estate, but that isn't a problem if you have to move a lot of metal anyway. And all of the disadvantages that is has, are the same disadvantages that a 7.5 or an 8.8 have.
I was thinking the mustang rear because it's 4x114.3, so I would only be a spacer away from having 4x100 and being able to use stock honda wheels all around
I will probably have to get the axle narrowed anyways, so just get it narrowed with the spacers in mind and it will be good to go
to the unsuspecting person on the outside it will look like a stock beat up 1g CRX 
Unsuspecting sheeple will frown at you and wonder what youre doing in that old CRX...Those of us who realize its potential will smile with you and wonder what youre doing in that old CRX...its an odd dichotomy
The Z cars mini busa is a similar concept. They even did on with 2 R1 engines for complete ridiculousness
Tom F wrote:
Knurled wrote:
Tom F wrote:
that's the plan, I was going to use a foxbody rear end so there would be lots of final drive options to play around with as well as being cheap and readily available
I always thought that 3rd/4th-gen F-body had a great swappable rear. There's really no geometry to worry about, since it's a torque arm setup. Make the lower links and the Panhard parallel with the ground and you're done.
Sure, it takes up a bunch of real estate, but that isn't a problem if you have to move a lot of metal anyway. And all of the disadvantages that is has, are the same disadvantages that a 7.5 or an 8.8 have.
I was thinking the mustang rear because it's 4x114.3, so I would only be a spacer away from having 4x100 and being able to use stock honda wheels all around
I will probably have to get the axle narrowed anyways, so just get it narrowed with the spacers in mind and it will be good to go
to the unsuspecting person on the outside it will look like a stock beat up 1g CRX
no get it narrowed to the correct width and have the shop redrill the axles and drums for your 4x100 pattern - take a fail point out of the equation by eliminating the adapters.
Knurled wrote:
Tom F wrote: I was thinking the mustang rear because it's 4x114.3, />
It's not, though.
Yep. It's 4x108 (4x1.25")
vazbmw wrote:
Has anyone considered using the starter motor running in reverse for reverse gear? All you would need is a switch that switches the current in revers direction to run it backwards.
may need a bit of work to run and automotive starter...but
I was thinking something along these lines to fix the reverse problems. I have seen a few people do this with bike engined Locost.
kb58
Reader
8/9/10 5:02 p.m.
cardiacdog wrote:
The Z cars mini busa is a similar concept. They even did on with 2 R1 engines for complete ridiculousness
... mounting the engine where God intended, behind the seats... (running for cover)
anybody know the track of the F body rear? 4 X108 is the bolt pattern I need for a different project.
F-bodies are 5x4.75, not 4x4.25.
Flange-flange width (for Fox and F-body) depends on year and braking system used. All I can find is that drum '86-93 Foxes are 59 1/4 flange-flange, and '94-98 (5-lug/disc) are 60 3/4. Thus it seems like the SN95 uses the same axles as the Mark VII/Turbo Coupe since I seem to recall those were 3/4" longer per side than the drum axles.
F-body, 3rd-gen are 55 3/4 (that doesn't seem right...) and 4th-gen are 59 1/4.
