The first issue is that the ring is corroded in place. You need to get it to move before you switch to a more delicate tool like a pick or small screw driver to remove it. You need a way to firmly support the outer housing while you beat on the ring with increasingly larger tools. On shock ends like that I've occasionally had to use a combination of heat and driving the ring in towards the bearing. It won't move very far but the flexing can break the corrosion bond. Once you get a little motion you can drive the corner of a chisel into the gap between the end of the ring and the outer housing in a direction that would spin the ring if it were free to move. It will dig up the housing a bit but some cleanup with a file will restore it to functionality. It might not be pretty however.
APEowner said:
The first issue is that the ring is corroded in place. You need to get it to move before you switch to a more delicate tool like a pick or small screw driver to remove it. You need a way to firmly support the outer housing while you beat on the ring with increasingly larger tools. On shock ends like that I've occasionally had to use a combination of heat and driving the ring in towards the bearing. It won't move very far but the flexing can break the corrosion bond. Once you get a little motion you can drive the corner of a chisel into the gap between the end of the ring and the outer housing in a direction that would spin the ring if it were free to move. It will dig up the housing a bit but some cleanup with a file will restore it to functionality. It might not be pretty however.
Excellent tips, thank you! I'll post back with the carnage...
Do you have a pneumatic hammer/chisel? If not, HF has them for something ridiculous like $27. Chuck up the flat chisel and set each side of the chisel on the retainer. Approach from 90 degrees (straight up) so you don't peen the body of the housing. Gently go around the clip with that chisel. Then remove.
The BFH/hammer and chisel idea is what you need, but using an actual chisel and a 5lb BFH means one impact per second. It might take you a few days to do it manually. A pneumatic chisel/hammer will break that thing loose in a few seconds.
Curtis said:
Do you have a pneumatic hammer/chisel? If not, HF has them for something ridiculous like $27. Chuck up the flat chisel and set each side of the chisel on the retainer. Approach from 90 degrees (straight up) so you don't peen the body of the housing. Gently go around the clip with that chisel. Then remove.
The BFH/hammer and chisel idea is what you need, but using an actual chisel and a 5lb BFH means one impact per second. It might take you a few days to do it manually. A pneumatic chisel/hammer will break that thing loose in a few seconds.
Is this the one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/hammers/air-impact-hammer-kit-92037.html
So you recommend just hammering down on each circlip from above? Is this just to break the corrossion loose, and prying the clip out comes after?
That is the exact tool, and your assumption is correct. You're just shaking the snot out of it to break it loose so you can pry it out.
You'll find it really nice for ball joints as well. Loosen the nut on the ball joint and one or two squeezes of the trigger on the side of the knuckle and it pops right out.
You can also use it as a press-type thing with the right arbors/chisels.
video
Or to cut annoying rivets or demolish something
Skip ahead to 1 minute
If you skip to 35 seconds in this video, he shows where to hit to separate the tapered ball joint. When he says the words "sledge hammer" replace them with "air hammer."
Skip to 0:35
Update!!
I bought a few nice awls and the cheap HF air chisel, soaked it in more Kroil, and had the circlips out in a matter of minutes! The strong and pointy awls were a great addition to my tool collection and can into areas screw drivers just can't get to. My next questions is just making sure I press out the bearing correctly. It's a little tough to tell for sure, but it looks like there's a groove around the bearing housing (?) that I assume I press out. Is this correct? It doesn't look like it matters which side I press from. Can anyone confirm before I do something stupid?
Something like this?
[img]https://static1.squarespace.com/static/599600f059cc68e96b469975/5bf6c39a0ebbe88c33765561/5c44b1c44fa51abcc0a4086c/1548005836592/IMG_2137.JPG?format=1500w[/img]
Thanks for all of your help everyone!
Find a thin wall socket a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the new bearing and something similar slightly larger ID than new bearing, then you can press the old out either side. Easy with a press, a little harder when using a bench vise because you have to support all 3 pieces. Put one snap ring back in before pressing the new bearing in. Only need smaller "socket" to install. Do not put load on inner race of new bearing, only press the outer race.
TurnerX19 said:
Find a thin wall socket a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the new bearing and something similar slightly larger ID than new bearing, then you can press the old out either side. Easy with a press, a little harder when using a bench vise because you have to support all 3 pieces. Put one snap ring back in before pressing the new bearing in. Only need smaller "socket" to install. Do not put load on inner race of new bearing, only press the outer race.
I didn't think this was the type of bearing that had inner and outer races. As far as I can see, the housing for the bearing is solid metal, and not filled with ball bearings. Would you be able to clarify?
In reply to 95maxrider :
Just one ball, with a hole through it. You can see some of it. What you call the housing is called the outer race in bearing speak.
