racer_ace
racer_ace New Reader
8/18/09 8:30 p.m.

Dear Friends of the Rotary,

How tight is one supposed to make an 86-88 RX-7 Fuel Pulsation damper. Mere mortal tight or super human strength tight? No torque specs available (big daddy 22mm open end wrench required).

Thanks,

Ray

ReverendDexter
ReverendDexter HalfDork
8/18/09 10:14 p.m.

I may be able to get you an answer from Bob Mabell (Maybell? I've never seen it written), but it'll take a day or two at the least as I have to relay it through a coworker of his.

racer_ace
racer_ace New Reader
8/18/09 11:12 p.m.

In reply to ReverendDexter:

Thanks. I've got some time before I reassemble the intake manfiold(s).

RexSeven
RexSeven HalfDork
8/18/09 11:34 p.m.

Did you buy an 86-88 FP damper or are you reusing your old one? Check it from time to time, because the 86-88 FP dampers are leak-prone, and it can create an engine fire hazard. Next time, replace it with a 89-91 FP damper; it'll bolt right in.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm

I can check the torque specs from the Hayne's manual Thursday or Friday. I am on vacation right now and I don't have it handy. I have the FSM as PDF's on my laptop, but I don't see any torque specs.

racer_ace
racer_ace New Reader
8/19/09 8:28 p.m.

In reply to RexSeven:

Thanks for the offer to check the Hayne's manual. I have one...no spec in there

I cheaped out ant got a replacement '86-'88 FP Damper from Mazdatrix. The '89+ with the integral fuel rail is $226.

Have you had any luck sorting out your idle problem?

daytonaer
daytonaer Reader
8/19/09 9:08 p.m.

Are you using thread sealant?

I know nothing mazda's, however I have stripped enough parts to know not to always trust torque settings on certain things. On a fuel rail I would be very worried about leaks, so I would use a liquid thread sealant and tighten to where I feel it wouldn't leak, then check it allot.

If it is a npt thread, you tighten more to depth than torque, AN I have discovered do not need to be that tight as they are easy to strip. You can always tighten it more but you can't put those threads back on.

racer_ace
racer_ace New Reader
8/19/09 10:28 p.m.

Interesting idea on the sealant. The Mazda FSM and the Haynes manual don't mention it. There FP Damper has a threaded "bolt end" which passes through a fuel line banjo bolt and then threads into the fuel rail. Copper "crush washers" are used on either side of the banjo bolt.

RexSeven
RexSeven HalfDork
8/19/09 10:45 p.m.
racer_ace wrote: I cheaped out ant got a replacement '86-'88 FP Damper from Mazdatrix. The '89+ with the integral fuel rail is $226.

Make sure to check the FP damper from time-to-time. If it's not pulsating, it's at risk of leaking.

racer_ace wrote: Have you had any luck sorting out your idle problem?

No luck. I have been able to get the idle to stop bouncing for the most part by adjusting the fast idle screw, but I haven't had time to get under the hood. I purposely took Thursday thru Sunday off from work to get to it, but the forecast calls for rain and thunderstorms on all 4 days... and I have no garage.

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