Drewsifer
Drewsifer Dork
12/25/11 4:43 p.m.

This my driver side rear door. The body strip is peeling away enough that it gets caught on the front door. Actually, part of the front door strip is peeling too. The wife says it needs to stay on for now, so I need to fix this. Is it as easy as I think it is?

Warm soapy water, clean under the trim, purchase some type of adhesive at Autozone, and stick it back on. Easy peasy lemon squeezy?

Woody
Woody GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
12/25/11 5:26 p.m.

EvanR
EvanR Reader
12/25/11 5:45 p.m.

Or this:

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
12/25/11 6:17 p.m.

Or this:

hotrodlarry
hotrodlarry Reader
12/25/11 6:24 p.m.

i vote for the molding tape. That's the same stuff they use for the vent visor things everybody buys.

jimbob_racing
jimbob_racing Dork
12/25/11 6:51 p.m.

For a POS car, a self tapping sheet metal screw works best.

JoeyM
JoeyM GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
12/25/11 6:56 p.m.
jimbob_racing wrote: For a POS car, a self tapping sheet metal screw works best.

+1

Drewsifer
Drewsifer Dork
12/26/11 3:29 p.m.

A thought just occurred to me. Should I pull the entire piece off to redo or can I get away with just retaping the part that's coming up?

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon SuperDork
12/26/11 3:37 p.m.

If you use windshield butyl, the trim won't stay very well. Urethane will hold but if the rest of the piece comes loose you'll have a helluva time taking it off without damaging something.

Pull the whole piece off, warm it up first. Parking in the sun for a couple of hours should do nicely. Then peel off the old tape from both the body and the molding, rubbing alcohol should do nicely. Acetone is even better but this can mess with paint so be careful! When you put the tape on and then press the piece back in place, the adhesive is pressure activated so you need to put some pressure on it and again it should be warm when you do this. Hint: use a long piece of that green masking tape to make an alignment line.

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