How would you clean this toolbox?

I have my uncle's old toolbox. 45 years old at the newest. I doubt it's ever reall been cleaned. Theres a bit if funk. Nothing bad, probably old grease. 

Let's assume I can remove the drawers. Simple Green/Super Clean and scrub, wash, dry, WD40, wipe, and reassemble?

Alternatives? Wipe down in place if I can't get the drawers out?

I'd blow out the loose bits with an air hose, drop some liners in the drawers and use it. Unless there's enough grease/ sticky crap / liquid to stick to the tools (assuming the liners wouldn't cover it.) The rest of it's just character.

In reply to ultraclyde (Forum Supporter) :

+1 to what he said.

There should be tabs on the drawer sliders that you can push in to override the stops and get the drawers out, but I'd probably just clean them in place.

That's where I'm leaning. I'd like to get this turd put back together asap. The WD I wipe on there shout help mask any old smells.

Wipe it down top to bottom with WD - will both clean and preserve it.  Use a couple of nice old towels to really buff it down good so its not greasy.  

Hit the drawer slides with some engine assembly lube.  Its got just the right amount of stick and slide to really make the drawers work nice.  Straighten it all out, make sure the locks work, and enjoy.

David Freiburger of Roadkill fame was wiping down old cars with comet and a sponge.  Paint was still flat, but it really brightened it up and got rid of a ton of the discoloration.  Test it in an inconspicouous area and see if it works for you.

Would bike chain lube have similar properties of assembly lube? I've got the former,  not the latter. 

Appleseed said:

Would bike chain lube have similar properties of assembly lube? I've got the former,  not the latter. 

No. Chain lube is designed to be sticky to hold on at speed.  Sticky as in tacky and grime attracting. A little grease or heavy oil is fine. You can always put something fancy in later.

In reply to Appleseed :

Yes

Appleseed said:

Would bike chain lube have similar properties of assembly lube? I've got the former,  not the latter. 

I'd try it. What happens if it doesn't work? you have to lube it again.

A little Phil Wood hub grease might be better if you have that.

I see you kept the tool to pop off window cranks.  Relevant!  :)

I would either vacuum / blow it out and hose it with WD-40 as recommended, or paint it and make it look new.  There isn't really an in between.

Awesome Cleaner and WD-40 after.

matthewmcl (Forum Supporter) said:

Appleseed said:

Would bike chain lube have similar properties of assembly lube? I've got the former,  not the latter. 

No. Chain lube is designed to be sticky to hold on at speed.  Sticky as in tacky and grime attracting. A little grease or heavy oil is fine. You can always put something fancy in later.

I guess I should learn to ask for clarification.  When I hear "bike" I think "motorcycle." If that is the kind of chain lube you have I would say no.  If "bike" means "bicycle," then sure, go ahead, and I might try that myself.

Pressure washer and some degreaser and some elbow grease. 
rinse well then get a small space heater and position it so you almost turn the box into an oven.  Maybe turn the box on its side even in front of the heater. 

let it get nice and warm to bake off moisture. 
let it cool and lube drawers. 
 

I have done this to two side cabinets, two rolling chests, three tops and two hand held boxes.  Most important to get them warm to rid them of water. 

When I redid my (acquired) 1980s snapon box I degreased the insides of the drawers, wiped them down with ISO then bedlined the inside bottoms. Same for the runners, except I used penetrating white lithium grease vice bedliner.

Always start with mild cleaners (i.e. soap and warm water) and then move to harsher cleaning methods only if necessary.

Try Magic Erasers too, the are mildly abrasive and get rid of all kinds of odd stains.

The WD did the trick. I used a light scotchbrite pad on the truly baked on grunge. As a bonus, it removed much of the pockets of rust, as well. I dont think this box has ever been cleaned. Like ever. A little lithium on the slides and it will be good for an other 45 years. 

I use WD40 as a cleaning chemical at work for working surfaces. (Workbenches, lifts, etc)  Works phenomenal.  Cheap, too.  A gallon was $20 at Autozone, and there were empty spray bottles for $1.98 in the same display.

The internet bros tell me engine assembly lube is the winner for tool slides and ratchets because it is sticky enough to stay in place and thin enough to slide well without gunking up the works. Totally different than bicycle or motorcycle chain lube.

I think I'd go Marvel Mystery Oil over WD only for the mint smell. 

For slide grease I think lithium for garage door roller tracks would be good enough.

I mean whatever my uncle lubed the slides with worked for 45 years because there was little resistance moving them before I started cleaning.  I'm going to start with lithium...because that's what I have at the moment.  I'll escalate as necessary.

Turned out nice.

Looks great!

I think you're on the right track with "use what you have on hand."  How bad can it go?!  lol.

I usually over-think when it comes to lubricants.  I've been trying to do less of that lately.

In reply to ClemSparks :

Believe me,  I've seen what happens in an engine oil thread. 

In reply to Appleseed :

You can buy spray cans of lithium-based grease, marketed for use on garage door tracks.  I've used that for applications like yours in the past.  It's a good quality lube, relatively clean, with just the right amount of "cling".  I think the one sold under the WD-40 brand is what I've used.  You can find it at most big-box home improvement stores.  WD-40 Specialist® White Lithium Grease