I have an apology to make...

derricklaukaitis wrote: I know this is an old thread, but THANK YOU for posting it Mezzanine! Ironically, I have been looking for information on how to properly adjust the "blasted" carb on my '66 Charger (which happens to have a Stromberg WW on top of a 318 Poly). This is a huge inspiration for me since I have been badmouthing that blasted thing for years now. At least I have the confidence now that it is possible to adjust even the Stromberg. But, I have to say, on the accelerator pump adjustment, don't bother bending the linkage unless it's just to take the slop out.

Glad to hear my experience helped you out! This is definitely one of those times where you just need to go out and do it. The rebuild was no big deal. Even 18 months later, my truck is running like a champ.

The accelerator pump adjustment I referred to was just what you described: taking out the slop. Seems to be correct now.

The kickdown linkage still isn't quite right; sometimes it stays in second gear, sometimes it doesn't. Works well enough as it is, so I haven't messed with it much since.

On the kickdown... I don't remember if there was one on the '66, but later years had two return springs. One return spring on the kickdown slider at the carb and one return spring on the connecting lever on the transmission itself. If they aren't both on there, slop in that set of linkages could cause erratic behavior in the transmission. But I've got to admit, I'm guessing here. Here's another thing to keep in mind. The valve body in the 727 transmission up to 1970 (I think that's the year... I can't seem to find the article now) doesn't allow the transmission to kickdown from 2 to 1 unless you're almost at a dead stop. It only allows a kickdown from 3 to 2. So, It could be that you're wanting it to shift from 2nd gear to 1st gear and that it is just acting as designed. I remember hearing about people upgrading to the later valve body to allow 2 to 1 shifts. Man I wish I could find the article :(

can you pull the lever down into 1st to get around this ?

Mezzanine wrote: *Big Update* So I had a few hours to work on the truck this weekend. Before making any further adjustments on the carb, I decided to go through all the usual tune-up items: I gapped the spark plugs, and pulled the valve covers to adjust the valves. A few were a little out of range, so it was a good thing I went in there. Interesting note: the factory service manual says to adjust the valves while the engine is running. How the hell are you supposed to do that? I can't even get a wrench on the rocker adjustment bolt because it is rocking away! Never mind all the oil leaking onto the exhaust manifolds... Anyway, I just did it on a hot (not running) engine and had to bump the starter a bunch of times to get all the valves adjusted properly.

So, thye make little clips that go over the ends of the pushrods so oil doesn't go everywhere. However, oil doesn't really go everywhere without using them. Use a socket wrench and adjust them while it is running.

For a sbc, I have always heard to back them off until they clatter. Then you tighten them back up until they don't clatter anymore and then add a slight bit more tightness. Boom done.

JoeyM wrote: As someone who just pulled all the (e)lectronics off an L24(e) and put the dual-carb intake of a 240z onto it.....yes, I would like that article.

I can help you there. We did the same thing with our Datstang after I said to hell with troubleshooting the electronics 2 days before the event. We went with dual Weber downdrafts that I picked up for $100 including manifold. Ran all weekend without any fuel delivery hiccups (plenty of suspension, brakes and ignition issues though).

In reply to wbjones: If I'm hauling a load, I'll leave the gear select in 2 so it stays in gear a bit. If I'm not hauling anything, then it can damn well shift as it pleases.

Derrick, thanks for the tip on the springs- I'll look for some pics of later shift linkages on a 727 to see if I can figure out where the springs would go. I think you might be onto something.

wbjones wrote: can you pull the lever down into 1st to get around this ?

Unfortunately, no. At least not in mine anyway, throwing it into 1st gear changes nothing. I'd bet that's why Dodge changed it. There were too many people wanting to actually show the muscle in their muscle cars in the late 60's / early 70's ;) I've got a 46RH (Dodge overdrive) transmission waiting to be rebuilt and thrown in to replace my vintage 727. Ahh... That'll be the day :)