Alex, you are beginning to know me too well. O'Fallon, of course my choice given one would have been Schlafly, but my mother bought O'Fallon. After it spilled, Reverend, I moved onto the 30 pack of Busch I had chilling in the freezer.
Alex, you are beginning to know me too well. O'Fallon, of course my choice given one would have been Schlafly, but my mother bought O'Fallon. After it spilled, Reverend, I moved onto the 30 pack of Busch I had chilling in the freezer.
alfadriver wrote: Seems like we have learned that N needs to video whatever he is working on. Could have made a bundle on America's Funniest Home Viedos!
Unfortunately most the audio would have had to be censored.
Focus Alternator: Start by lifting power steering reservoir off its hanger and putting it on the cowl. Then unbolt the coolant tank, lift it off the hanger and put on top the engine. Remove 2 engine mount bolts
That gives you plenty of room to work. Never taken me more than 30 minutes for any of the five I have done.
ReverendDexter wrote: I see your problem, you had the wrong beer. For working on a Ford, you need to stick with a beer that comes in 18-packs.
I thought 18 pks were standard on any vehicle
Hal wrote: Focus Alternator: Start by lifting power steering reservoir off its hanger and putting it on the cowl. Then unbolt the coolant tank, lift it off the hanger and put on top the engine. Remove 2 engine mount bolts That gives you plenty of room to work. Never taken me more than 30 minutes for any of the five I have done.
What engines were you working with, Hal? I can understand doing it quite a bit faster if you know what the hell you're doing and you don't have fertilizer spreaders assaulting you, but there were a few things I cant see doing without lifting the engine, such as taking the drive belt off.
corytate wrote: This is why cars should only be sold in rwd/manual transmission layout
Doesn't always help.
I just replaced the clutch in my Supercoupe. I'd venture to say there aren't many other clutch swaps that involve removing the rear knuckles.
Will wrote:corytate wrote: This is why cars should only be sold in rwd/manual transmission layoutDoesn't always help. I just replaced the clutch in my Supercoupe. I'd venture to say there aren't many other clutch swaps that involve removing the rear knuckles.
How? Sounds like pulling the engine would be easier.
Was doing an alternator on my SAAB saturday and after 2 out of 3 MM's were out i still had to drop the DP and exhaust, Now me trying to be sly i just dropped the DP in the hopes i could worm that berkeleyer out, well that did not work out so in the midst of dropping the rest of the exhaust the alt. was hanging between the cat and the body, i take off the last hangers and the alt. falls only issue is it was on my left hipbone.
Needless to say i had about 5-8 (or was it 12?) yuenglings after that was done and was still in quite a bit of pain the next day.
We feel your pain!
Kenny_McCormic wrote:Will wrote:How? Sounds like pulling the engine would be easier.corytate wrote: This is why cars should only be sold in rwd/manual transmission layoutDoesn't always help. I just replaced the clutch in my Supercoupe. I'd venture to say there aren't many other clutch swaps that involve removing the rear knuckles.
To pull the trans out, you have to pull the driveshaft out. To do that, you have to either remove the diff housing, or drop the gas tank (which sits under the driveshaft). I chose to pull the diff housing, and to do that, you have to pull the rear knuckles to get the halfshafts out of the diff.
Gearheadotaku wrote: I Berkleying HATE transverse engines. Sadly thats just the way it is on most cars these days. Everything's jammed against the inner fender or under the cowl and no room for tools.1/2 the stuffs just plain not visible. It's getting to be like an old air cooled VW. Step 1 - remove engine. (Except any modern FWD is hard to remove engine unlike an old bug)
Check out the engine bay of a Mazda2, it's quite roomy in there for FWD.
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