I like my anti-seize, but this

Just might be a bit too much.

That's probably just the right amount for an all-season wheel setup that will see road salt

Tell me you live in the rust belt without saying it.

Here come the 20 anti seize memes..........

Seems reasonable, although there are alternatives available 

In reply to No Time :

That doesn't stop rust on the hub.

Then again, antisieze doesn't stop rust from forming either.  And it looks like whoever did that just glopped the stuff right on over the scale instead of using a carbide scraper to clean it, so the new rotor will probably have runout that will turn into a thickness variation after a few thousand miles and they will blame the rotors when the problem was the tool holding the wrenches.

I scrape with carbides and then use a mixture of chassis grease and ATF that I call "wet grease". (It's a nice way to use the leftovers from a tube)  It spreads easily with an acid brush and it bakes in like seasoning a cast iron pan.

If the hubs are really scrody then the car leaves with a note that if a pulsation occurs in the future, the hubs will need to be replaced to prevent it from recurring.

Some people hang parts, some people repair cars...

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Agreed, there are several things that need to be done if you want it right. 

On the one in the photo, I wire brushed the hub, then flirted with disaster (of getting antiseize on everything) by using my finger to spread a thin coating of anti-seize on the hub and wiping off excess before installing the rotor. 

In reply to No Time :

I used to work with someone who insisted, on hiring, that we get one of those fancy (expensive!) heated, remediating microbe parts washers.

The parts washer WAS nice but it soon became apparent that he only wanted it because he literally fingerpainted everything with antisieze and wanted the $2000 parts washer to wash his hands afterwards.

Where I work now, the subject came up and my employer, without prompting or inviting discussion, said antiseize was banned in his shop 

It's amazing how it manages to not prevent rust.  You'd think it would, but things are perfectly happy to rust under it.

In reply to Noddaz :

I swear by the product that I reference in this old thread.  The product is completely a pleasure to work with.  Like Franks Red Hot...I put that sh!t on everything!

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I don't have any false hope of keeping things from rusting, just hoping to slow it down so that in 50k miles I can get the rotor off again without too many swings of the 5lb hammer. 

edit: to clarify, I only applied to the of of the flange center hub, not the face. The flat face of the hub was just wire brushed. The studs have some coating from the factory helping keep rust under control, even with the open lugs used with the winter wheels. 

Pete, out of curiosity as a fellow rust belt resident, what's the advantage of carbide scrapers vs a a wire brush?

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I use not to prevent rust but just to be able to get crap apart at some future point.

Looks like they used a dull apprentice to apply that.

We use a ton of Molykote P-37 at work. Glob it on some things. We have serious galling issues with some of the fastener materials we use.

We used to use a copperbased one called C4 but have gone away from it. That is the stuff you want in an electrical anti-sieze.

I don't get why people say it doesn't work or hate it? As a rust belt native every wheel hub and a bit of lug threads gets it.  Any wheel I've had to remove after application comes off easily with a quick nudge.  Most wheels on used rust belt cars that I've aquired that have never seen antiseize?.... ugh. Sledgehammers, driving with loose lugs, heat, etc. to get a wheel off.   
 

it works. 

Yup, I've coated wheel hubs with anti-seize just like the offender in the OP. After breaking a rotor in half with a sledge once because it was fused to the hub, and then having to chip the remnants off the hub with a chisel, I'd rather look like an idiot on the internet than have to deal with that again. It does keep things from, you know, seizing up. 

Tony Sestito said:

Yup, I've coated wheel hubs with anti-seize just like the offender in the OP. After breaking a rotor in half with a sledge once because it was fused to the hub, and then having to chip the remnants off the hub with a chisel, I'd rather look like an idiot on the internet than have to deal with that again. It does keep things from, you know, seizing up. 

I've dealt with some pretty bad stuck rotors over the years, but the one pictured below was STUCK. I bought a hydraulic puller thinking that it'd do the trick for sure and it just broke the rotor. I ultimately had to use an angle grinder to get it off. I've since learned the trick of cutting from either side with a sawzall and using a sledge hammer to finish the break. The car pictured below got an ugly slathering of anti-seize out of anger. It will be a great test - it still has those rotors on it and has been doing a lot of sitting around in the seven or eight years since. It's going to need brakes/rotors soon. I'll come back to this thread to update on the outcome. 

In reply to xflowgolf (Forum Supporter) :

Not only does it work but it allows the fastener the lube that it actually needs to get the proper torque to it.

The issue with overzealous use is that some things are meant to be torqued dry, and the specs are based on a lack of lube.

There is a thread from several years ago debating it:

grm-torquing-lug-nuts-dry-or-greased?

I'm with Pete on this. I've been fixing rusty cars in Michigan since the 1900s and can't stand the silver stuff either. For cars that see winter, here is what has worked well for me:

1. Any time a fastener is removed, it gets wire wheeled (or replaced) and greased before reinstallation. I've always just used grease gun grease. I cut the tubes in half and use an acid brush to paint it on. One of my first stories in GRM was about all the ways I use grease: Grease: Its the Word (I think I wrote it in the 1900s, but it was published in 2000).
2. When a car is up in the air, I hit all the rust-prone fasteners and bushings with WD-40 (which is as debated as the silver stuff, but has worked fine for me).
3. I replace brake pads at 75-50% if they're going to see winter--keeps the pistons less exposed (dust seals aren't perfect) and less likely to need caliper rebuild/replacement in the future.
4. For hubs like the ones shown, thorough cleaning like Pete says, but I just use a wire wheel or brush. Ideally, the replacement rotors will be plated like the ones NAPA sells.
5. Frequent runs through the car wash with underbody wash.
6. I still need to use the hot wrench from time to time, but it's usually because previous work didn't include preventative measures like those above. 

In reply to Carl Heideman :

GRM should run an article about your rust-prevention measures. :) 

In reply to David S. Wallens :

I guess I should figure out how to contact the editor and pitch the article...

In reply to No Time :

Correct. I do not use it on lugs.