I'm replacing a head gasket on a '98 civic dx this afternoon. I need to know the cyl head bolt torque specs, and if there any special tricks to this job. The engine runs well, no milkshake in the pan and no steam in the exhaust, but it blows bubbles in the radiator and overheats if driven for few miles at highway speed. Are cracked heads a known problem with these? Thanks.
Google search found this
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_headbolt_torque_for_a_1998_honda_civic_single_cam
1998 Honda civic head bolt torque specs
step 1 14 ft/lbs
step 2 36ft/lbs
step 3 49ft/lbs
step 4 retourque bolts 1 and 2 at 49ft/lbs
start with the midle bolts and do a cris cross pattern to the out side bolts
If you turn the heater on full blast, it is scorching hot, and the temp goes down or doesn't really get any higher, you have a plugged up radiator, non-rotating water pump, or even an inop cooling fan.
In reply to Ranger50:
Radiator is brand new 3 months ago, water pump & t-belt are being changed today, and what other than a bad HG or cracked head would cause bubbles in the coolant on a stone cold engine? But thanks for the input.
Run_Away wrote:
Thanks! Just what I needed.
Ok so what is the trick to removing the. crank pulley bolt? Is it reversed thread? I've tried twisting it both sys with an impact gun, it wont budge.
Crank pulley bolt is the giant bitch on Honda cars, 1/2 impact always did the trick for me but you may have to try a holding tool to get it off, I have seen them advertised but never used one.
Linky
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_6807/honda_and_acura_timing_belt_helpful_tips.html
Standard thread. Just a bitch.
Thanks for the help guys. The civic is back up and purring like a sewing machine. I am not too familiar with MLS style head gaskets, but the one that came out seemed pretty crappy to me. Also when I removed the head some of the bolts were not as tight others. Hopefully it wasn't warped, I checked it with a straight edge but I'm not sure my method was sound. Guess I'll find out soon enough.