I tried my hand at TIG welding today.

I bought a TIG machine last week. Harbor Freight's Vulcan ProTig 200. I'm pretty happy with the machine. It's pretty well built, the cords are decent quality, and it was pretty easy to get up and running. Ignore the rest of the disaster that is my shop. 

Steel is pretty easy. Very similar to brazing. I can't do the "stack of dimes," but I'm confident I can stick two pieces of steel together and have them stay together. There is a lot going on when running a TIG machine. Running the torch, pedal, and filler, all at the same time is a little tricky. I'll have to practice a lot. 

Aluminum didn't go quite as well. I think I'm getting some contamination when I try to add filler. I can make a puddle as pretty as you please, but as soon as I touch the filler to the puddle things go south quickly. I've got a ways to go with aluminum. I was using the same electrode for steel and aluminum so maybe the electrode itself was contamination the aluminum. I could also be the cheap HF filler rods. I'm not sure. I have some electrodes and rods on the way and will try again when that stuff shows up. 

I have different electrodes for steel and aluminum.  I don’t remember which though.  I have successfully fixed an ls1 oil pan that had the corner broken off, but i still am a ways off from any aluminum work that i’m willing to let someone else see.  Steel is simple.  

buy good quality consumables

practice, practice, practice. Electrode grind and torch angle, travel speed, amps etc

position is 90% of set up, practice more

Clean the aluminum very well an inch each side of the weld. A scotchbrite pad works well.  Clean the filler metal as well. 

I forgot to mention that you should always grind the electrode on a grinding wheel that is only used for grinding tungsten. The electrode will be contaminated if it is ground on a wheel that grinds other metals. .

I have the same machine and have been beating on it since last March. The only problem I've had with it is sometimes the arc won't light off when I'm welding aluminum but give the electrode a scratch on the work piece and hit the pedal again and it will light right up. Also, the fan on the rear of the machine can sometimes blow your shielding gas away if you have it too close to your work piece.

Clean. Clean. Clean your metal. Aluminum especially I keep a stainless steel brush just for aluminum prep. Also keep some fresh shop towels and Acetone/Isopropyl alcohol handy to wipe down your work piece before you strike an arc, there's a lot of gunk there you can't see that the welder will find. I like to use these bottles.  Wiping down your filler rod can be a big help too, you won't believe how dirty that stuff is even fresh out of the package.

As for electrodes buy a pack of Ceriated 3/32" Electrodes and grind the tips on both sides of them. That way you can hot swap them whenever you dip the electrode into the puddle like it's a tortilla chip in a bowl of salsa.  Ceriated sticks hold up pretty well on both AC and DC so you can use them for both steel and aluminum. You won't notice a whole lot of a difference in electrode chemistry when you're starting out especially on an inverter machine. 

Don't waste your money on the crazy expensive hand held grinders or waste the time setting up a grinding stone just for electrodes on your bench grinder.  Get one of these and put it on a dremel/rotary tool and use it just for electrode grinding.

Clean metal, clean electrode and practice, practice, practice. Have fun!

RacetruckRon said:

I have the same machine and have been beating on it since last March. The only problem I've had with it is sometimes the arc won't light off when I'm welding aluminum but give the electrode a scratch on the work piece and hit the pedal again and it will light right up.

My Miller Dynasty at home, and Miller Diversion at work, do the same thing, so don't fret over that.