chiodos wrote: Thats her, put a magnet too it and see if they are ferrous or not.
A big speaker magnet didn't pull any of them from the filter material.
chiodos wrote: Thats her, put a magnet too it and see if they are ferrous or not.
A big speaker magnet didn't pull any of them from the filter material.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
Youve got your answer then, sucks majorly but the motors got to come back out for another rebuild. Hopefully the "mechanic" will do the right thing and take care of it for you.
And????
Picking up a new silvertop oil pump and set of crank seals today, the mechanic wants to have these on hand to start teardown. Found that out on Friday, had to physically find him to get this information because of his awesome communications skills.
Edit: Aaaand that's going to eat up a big chunk of my income this month...ow ow ow x_x
You know, somewhere in this thread (or another one on this subject,) I mentioned the cheap solution was to add 4 more valves.
That could take care of the head but it does nothing for the bottom end...a whole used 20v (assuming stock and not too recently rebuilt) with accessories runs the equivalent of $1500~2500US locally, when you can find them. The parts to rebuild the whole bottom end, if I don't need to go to overbore pistons, should cost less than half of a sweet deal on a used 20v.
during dis-assembly, hopefully they will find the cause....
we know, that you know... that we want to know... 
After reading this thread and several others from you GameBoy, I have to ask if island living is really suited to you and your automotive desires?
I know you were looking at moving to Canada at one point, but it seems like that perhaps that should be your focus instead.
Just a thought from a fellow GRM'er.
You're totally right. The automotive side of things isn't even the worst part, the dating and business aspects are worse.
I was originally going to spend the money I put into overhauling the Corolla into getting a beater in Canada and moving up there, but was getting nothing but opposition from my family at the time.
The guy I spoke to at the stealership made a mistake on the price, and the front crank seal comes with the pump, so I only paid about half of what I was expecting. Coulda gone worse.
You can get the 4 extra valves with everything else attached down to the oil drain plug on Canada (it's like a whole other planet) for dirt cheap. Add a megasquirt and you're good to go. Just sayin'. Maybe you could call a relative and get them to ship it to you in a big box labeled "Kitchen utensils" or something.
Dr. Hess wrote: You can get the 4 extra valves with everything else attached down to the oil drain plug on Canada (it's like a whole other planet) for dirt cheap. Add a megasquirt and you're good to go. Just sayin'. Maybe you could call a relative and get them to ship it to you in a big box labeled "Kitchen utensils" or something.
Hahaha no it's tough and risky enough to get the little stuff down here with those kinds of tricks 
It would be as difficult as trying to smuggle a brick of cocaine of the same size.
I know in the 90s, people did actually smuggle engine heads in! How? Well, luggage weight limits were more generous back then, and there's nothing too suspicious about a normal-looking suitcase...
I've been thinking about things I could do differently with this new oil pump.
First it seems a soft rev limiter will reduce the chance of failure, especially since I'm now running an all-metal crank pulley. Before, I was running a fuel cut at 7800 with a spark cut at 8000 to prevent overshoot (which it was indeed useful for). This was a conservative initial setting. I'm thinking maybe I should set up ignition retard from 7800-8300 with fuel cut at 8300 and spark cut backing it up at 8400. 8500+ is the "asking for it" zone both for the stock oil pump gear and stock valvetrain.
Anyone think it would be worthwhile to look into cryo treatment and/or shot peening for the stock powdered metal oil pump gear?
What cams are you running??
as to slipping a head inside a suitcase... 4AGE heads are under 50#s..... just saying 
Stock cams for now, later I'll go to shimless lifters, uprated springs (if necessary) and a "stage 2" cam, maybe the Kelford 193B "rally" cams or the Matrix Garage MG-116A.
stock cams stop making power @ about 6600-6700....
you aren't going to be running the Matrix Garage cams without modifying the head... 10.4mm cams need to be clearanced to rotate... as to the Kelfords... they should run without further mods.
What is your static compression? running cams with duration of over 240 @ .050 will require a fair bit of static compression.....
In reply to GameboyRMH:
I dont know if shot peening or cryo would do anything for powdered metal, that's usually reserved for ...eh, solid steel? Forgings/billets/ whatever you want to call it. Its just the nature of the powdered metal beast, see the thread titled "engine builders beware" or something along those lines.
oldeskewltoy wrote: stock cams stop making power @ about 6600-6700.... you aren't going to be running the Matrix Garage cams without modifying the head... 10.4mm cams need to be clearanced to rotate... as to the Kelfords... they should run without further mods. What is your static compression? running cams with duration of over 240 @ .050 will require a fair bit of static compression.....
I'm OK with clearancing the head for bigger cams if necessary.
I was running the HKS 1.6mm MLS head gasket with no shaving and late-model stock JDM pistons, that's all I know about compression. I'll have to go back to a stock gasket for now to save costs, I have one that came with the rebuild kit. I'll probably go back to another HKS 1.6mm later when I put aftermarket cams in.
Mls gaskets are reusable, at least with that few miles. Clean it with soap and water and spray it wil copper gasket spray E36 M3.
GameboyRMH wrote:oldeskewltoy wrote: stock cams stop making power @ about 6600-6700.... you aren't going to be running the Matrix Garage cams without modifying the head... 10.4mm cams need to be clearanced to rotate... as to the Kelfords... they should run without further mods. What is your static compression? running cams with duration of over 240 @ .050 will require a fair bit of static compression.....I'm OK with clearancing the head for bigger cams if necessary. I was running the HKS 1.6mm MLS head gasket with no shaving and late-model stock JDM pistons, that's all I know about compression. I'll have to go back to a stock gasket for now to save costs, I have one that came with the rebuild kit. I'll probably go back to another HKS 1.6mm later when I put aftermarket cams in.
stock gasket is 1.2mm... HKS 1.6?? Why would you lower compression, and reduce the squish??? You said no shaving... and aftermarket 10.3:1 pistons....
You'll need a LOT more static to run cams with 240+ @ .050" lift.
Skippy is currently @ 10.7 to 1 (10.3 O/S aftermarket replacements) and running stock cams - 204 duration @ .050"
Since the engine is coming out/apart........ my recommendations:
1) machine block deck to have a zero deck measurement, if block needs to be machined so the pistons stick above, then a taller gasket MAY be required.
2) Use either .032" or .036" metal gasket with a zero deck, with a deck where the piston stick above, get a gasket that ends up keeping the pistons edge .8mm to .9mm away from the head (squish).
3)The 16V head is 116mm thick (4.567") stock chamber volume is 36cc, a cut of .030" will shrink chamber volume to about 32.5 - 33 cc. Correction .030" cut equals a 33.5 to 34cc chamber.
Compression Calculator. For gasket bore - use 83mm.
Now for suitability.... this calculator is a dynamic compression calculator and it is another tool to help guide you. A stock TVIS (9.4:1) 4AGE has a DCR of around 8.2, a smallport(10.3:1) has a DCR of about 9.3. And as an example, Skippy's DCR is about 9.5. Part of the reason the smallport is higher is obvious, the static is higher... but another reason the smallport's DCR is higher is the cam timing points on smallport cams is LESS duration then the early TVIS cams
Shorter cam timing closes the intake valve sooner, AND doesn't open the exhaust valve until later.... 
If your intention is to run a 240+ @ .050" lift cam, you will need a minimum of 11.5 to 1 to get any decent performance from it.
stock bore = 81mm(3.189"), stock stroke 77mm(3.0315"), stock gasket 1.2mm(.047") x 83mm, 36cc for chamber volume on an uncut head -.3cc for piston volume, and zero for deck, and finally when using the DCR you will need the rod length 122mm (4.803")
Sorry, the head gasket on mine is actually the 0.7mm model...after looking at your calculations, maybe I should go with a milder cam, I don't think 11.5:1 will play nicely with the local pump gas.
If I were to get something in the "stage 1" ballpark I'd look around to see what's available used.
GameboyRMH wrote: Sorry, the head gasket on mine is actually the 0.7mm model...after looking at your calculations, maybe I should go with a milder cam, I don't think 11.5:1 will play nicely with the local pump gas. If I were to get something in the "stage 1" ballpark I'd look around to see what's available used.
Note - it is the dynamic compression ratio that OST mentioned that determines the gas you need. Ever wonder how motorcycles with crazy static compression numbers run the same gas we put in cars? Its because they have cams built for high rpm and therefore the dynamic compression is more normal.
Robbie wrote:GameboyRMH wrote: Sorry, the head gasket on mine is actually the 0.7mm model...after looking at your calculations, maybe I should go with a milder cam, I don't think 11.5:1 will play nicely with the local pump gas. If I were to get something in the "stage 1" ballpark I'd look around to see what's available used.Note - it is the dynamic compression ratio that OST mentioned that determines the gas you need. Ever wonder how motorcycles with crazy static compression numbers run the same gas we put in cars? Its because they have cams built for high rpm and therefore the dynamic compression is more normal.
USE the DCR..... as I said... Skippy is running a VERY high DCR of 9.5+... 10.7 static AND tiny cams....
longer duration cams lower the DCR...
but to get to over 11 to one, you either have to cut the head deep, or get new pistons. .7mm is VERY tight.... higher rpm causes more rod stretch... not saying you are too tight... just saying .7 is tight....
.7 mm is .0275" for the imperial types. Thats fairly tight.
Magic number to convert anything metric to imperial is 25.4, you got to figure for yourself which goes where and if its time or divided by.
Im just here to see this beast finally come back BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER!
Well here's a problem:
Updates today in the build thread:
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