Bottom pan off
With the pans off, it looks pretty wide open already.
Next comes the battery and battery tray.
Now the airbox is gone. Intake tract next. The throttle body is against the firewall.
Tough to get to this clamp over the throttle plate. However, gripping this clip in a Channelock and having the little detent was a nice touch. This will make it easier to install.
Throttle body covered with old gym sock. Let's pull some harness out of the way.
Numbering the ground location. Starter's up next.
Buh-bye.
Clutch slave gets tucked away next to the radiator.
The shift cable retaining clips were a little nasty until I figured out I could get to them with a crowbar through the wheelwell.
Look what Mr FedEx brought.
A very nice piece of kit all made in Japan. Nice to contemplate while I figure out how to pop the driveshafts. None of the bars I have can get the proper angle.
The clutch alignment tool has a really fat end on it. Makes me believe there is no pilot bearing.
I've been working on the car in dribs and drabs due to schedule conflicts (work stuff). This little bugger sent me to the Future Hammer Store for another prybar because none of my other ones were the right shape. Of course, the one I needed was only available in a set. Out it came in 30 secs.
I curse the day you were manufactured, you evil passenger side driveshaft. Corrosion between the pillow block and the shaft housing made this thing a bitch on wheels. Much disassembly was required to get at the upper bolt holding the shaft to the pillow block. I needed clearance for a longer breaker bar because corrosion set between the upper bolt and the threads.
The rear mount was problematic. I had to unbolt the secondary cat heat shield, then move the tranny toward the radiator (after unbolting the tranny rear mount) while simultaneously reaching down and grabbing it. I have to replace it because the rubber is cracked. Here's a gratuitous pillow block shot after some 400-grit and crocus cloth-ing. I'm gonna rub a little anti-seize on it before assembly. Check out the rust on the driveshaft in the previous pic.
Fragged. Slippery wins the set of luggage and a copy of the home game for guessing the failure mode correctly.
Here's a close-up look at the new disc which is the same as the old one. Note the Teflon-like spacers on each end of the springs. Looks like they come apart after 14 years and 169,000 miles. Eventually, The spring left its perch and wedgied itself between the disc and the pressure plate. Which is why it would not release ultimately. The input shaft would not come out of the disc because it lost rigidity and was just bending as I tried to shake the trans off.
So now I'm installing the same clutch as the OEM. Perhaps I should have sprung for a clutch without the plastic inserts. The engagement might be harsher but I might get the last half-millimeter of life left in the disc. Luckily, I paid $159 for a clutch that says "Aisin." I would feel worse if I paid over $400 for the same clutch marked "Toyota."
always feels good to definitively find the cause of the pain. Fantastic effort.
The flywheel still has the original machining pattern on it but you can see the heat discoloration. Unfortunately, I'll have to leave it be, even though I know the rear main seal will start leaking in about a week. Sometimes a little meatball surgery is indicated.
Actually, the discoloration is black not blue. Which is the same color as the lining. A little thermal transfer maybe?
Jerry From LA said:
The clutch alignment tool has a really fat end on it. Makes me believe there is no pilot bearing.
Practically all transverse transmissions have no pilot. The input shaft generally is long enough to have all five/six/seven gears on it, so a pilot bearing is redundant.
Not like most rear drive transmissions where the input shaft has only one bearing and needs to be supported on the engine end.
This is the rear (firewall) engine mount. The steering rack passes between the legs and the hard lines going to and from the rack are arrayed around the feet. The manual wants me to disconnect the steering column and move the rack. I said nah. It's doable, but a pain. After disconnecting the trans tail mount, I pushed the trans toward the radiator a tad and pushed/pulled/wiggled/cursed/ shimmied/cursed the mount out. It's got some major cracks in it so it must be replaced. Aftermarket mounts are available for less than 25 bucks. I've never found an aftermarket mount for a transverse-engined Japanese car that didn't wear out in a year. 161 dollars at the dealer so what to do? I bent over. It will be here Thursday.
That's the automatic mount but I get it. I just need it soon. I can pick up the mount tomorrow morning.
Ah, My Bad. The Manual bracket is 108.00
1. Pretty sure the factory disc I bought was different than the one that came out. It possibly did not have springs but some sort of rubber cushions.
2. Pretty sure I bought a set of mounts from Toyota and never installed them. Too late now :( but I will still check and see if I have them. If I do, you can have them in case you did not buy all of them.
Mullet: For the life of me, I can't figure out the difference between the two.
Slip: The earlier disks had rubber cushions. I guess they still fit later applications. I'm thinking my passenger side engine mount may be pretty knackered, seeing as how I've been beating the hell out of it by wagging it this way and that.
My engine mount wouldn't arrive at the dealer until Thursday morning but there was plenty to do.
Ah, that's better. Loctite blue on the bolts.
One does what one must to get clearance for one's transmission.
The trans is in but I didn't snap the pic. I did something I never did before and swear I wouldn't do. I "walked" it on by installing and tightening a few bolts. The dowels were really fat and the tolerances for the holes were close. Not much of a chamfer either. Had the shaft nose in there but damn if I couldn't get those dowels to go. Checked the relative angularity of the engine and trans and everything. Made it tough to wriggle the thing off too. A little corrosion didn't help.
Now I'm jammed up for the proper gear lube. I need GL-4 75w-90. Stuff used to be everywhere. Now you can't find GL-4 anymore. If you can, it has a friction modifier in it. I'm talking to an AMSOIL dealer for MTGQT and he's trying to find me some I can pick up today. I can be done tonight.
Talked to the crazy kids at AMSOIL and we came up with this whipped topping:
Found a guy named Henry who was selling AMSOIL out of the O'Reillys Auto Parts in Sunland. He had some in stock so I took a 30-minute ride out to pick it up. I didn't set out to buy AMSOIL but it was the only easily available GL-4 I could get.
There is a 76 gas station near sunland (in la crescenta) that sells redline. In a small little display rack and the bottles are all dusty but that was where I went to get gl4 when I lived by sunland.
That is a pretty good O rileys. its right by my house. They are probably the most helpful parts people around. They never second guess when I walk in with part numbers, they actually give me what I ask for. Its fun to put the new counter people through the paces!
In reply to MulletTruck :
Yeah, the one near my house has some pretty useless characters behind the counter. However, they do have Wix filters, which is why I'm there. O'Reillys lets Henry sell AMSOIL out of the store and through their cash register. Found another dead engine mount which escaped my attention so it should be in at the dealer around the corner today.
Reassembly well under way. Driveshafts in, suspension torqued into place, mounts all torqued to spec. I'll clean that throttle body with the gym sock before I assemble the airbox.
One last look at the dastardly pillow block. I was not expecting the amount of iron/steel corrosion that I found. Rare for LA. My wife thinks the car spent significant time at the beach.
Clutch hydraulics going back on as well as the second new mount at lower left. Pedal action feels great.
Lunch break is over. Should be on the road in a bit.
In reply to Jerry From LA :
Nice!
