Thanks all. That build thread is insane. And I think it's cured me of my disorder. Though now I think it needs to be AWD. I know, I know. We all have a problem
Thanks all. That build thread is insane. And I think it's cured me of my disorder. Though now I think it needs to be AWD. I know, I know. We all have a problem
You would have to cut out a large part of the floor and fab new. Maybe the trunk too. And then there is the problem of the gas tank. so much fun.
Not sure if its been mentioned, but anytime you are converting a unibody FWD car to RWD there are inherent drive/thrust issues. Its not simply a fitment issue.
A FWD car (like the 323) has a rigid subframe that carries the engine, tranny, and all the torque vectors. The rest of the car is a tinfoil trailer. Sending torque to the rear not only requires the simple fabrication of making it happen, but also the proper reinforcement to make the car withstand the torque. I've seen RWD conversions shatter windows on the first throttle blip pulling out of the garage because they are torquing the chassis in ways it wasn't designed.
amg_rx7 wrote: Since we're on the topic, you could probably follow the same steps to build a RWD Mazda 6 wagon. Find a Mazda6 wagon. Get the 2.3L T motor. Bolt it to the NC 6 speed and use the rear suspension subframe from the RX8.
This intrigues me, greatly. Anyone know of an rx8 subframe swapped 6 out there?
Swank Force One wrote: You do it like this. http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701310615
That sure is one giant hole in the floor. Is it me, or would the mid-engine solution seem easier?
I have the car, it's got a professionally built cage, and is rust free for Ontario. I'm just trying to wring more fun out of her. And yes, the RWD conversion I think is a non starter now, at least for me.
The winter project after the race season will be more power, and preferably AWD. But first it needs to go on a diet.
J
Here's one of the few GLC left: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4426520542.html He even mentions the rotary swap
why not just get an older small SUV that still has a separate frame. then put the 323 body on it ? All previous problems solved.
Sheesh. Just when I start to get excited about the possibility, the OP bails on the idea. I was thinking about this same thing recently, but with an Escort. Whenever I consider this, I keep forgetting about the steering rack.
I don't have the fab skills to do what that Probe guy did. If I were going so far as to do a body swap, I'd just get a Miata.
Aren't the AWD transaxles basically unobtainium now?
I was considering grabbing a ZX2 and making it rwd. Grab a fox body axle and maybe even front k member. I already have the transmission that hooks up to the Zetec. It would be neat to use the same engine in a 90° turn of power.
BF transaxles are out there, but made of glass and you're picking up complete replacements opposed to parts when something goes boom.
would a manual rack conversion help clean things up...
jstein77 wrote:Swank Force One wrote: You do it like this. http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701310615That sure is one giant hole in the floor. Is it me, or would the mid-engine solution seem easier?
Probably easier, but Dan's goal was to build a RWD Probe like Mazda would have designed. Mazda doesn't do mid-engined.
And the mid-engined car wouldn't have likely handled as well.
Jeff wrote: I have the car, it's got a professionally built cage, and is rust free for Ontario. I'm just trying to wring more fun out of her. And yes, the RWD conversion I think is a non starter now, at least for me. The winter project after the race season will be more power, and preferably AWD. But first it needs to go on a diet. J
Jeff, I think that you should be thinking engine swap or a snail. FWD rally cars can be quite competitive with some power.
In reply to NGTD:
this, and BPT's provide ample, even 200whp will be more then enough to make life on stage an adventure. For speed via final drive and trans reliability without the headache of a RWD conversion I'd strongly look into a PAR dogbox
http://www.par-engineering.com/Products/Catalog/ProdID/399/CatID/138/GSeries_1st4th_Dog_Engagement_Gearset.aspx
Once that's in you'll be able to boost to 450hp reliabily
for cheaper, yes E153 conversion, for ease of replacement parts, flexbility of gear ratios and gearing, PAR
mndsm wrote: How many file cabinets you got?
I like you. I don't care what they say about you around here....
Can anyone direct me to some informative links about converting your non turbo BG body to a turbo? Most of the stuff I've found is heavy on noise, low on how to. Also, what's the story on the KIA transmission that's supposed to take the KAAZ diff?
I other words, Swank point me in the right direction.
I'm biased, but I vote for going with bolting a FWD drivetrain and suspension subassembly into the rear. If only there was a book to tell how to do that... hmmm... turns out there is
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
Actually, it would be a lot easier than starting from scratch as the front can stay intact, other than fabbing a gas tank to take the place of the existing engine at the front.
You'll get tons more traction with the drivetrain back there, so I'd go with more than 200 hp :)
Jeff wrote: Can anyone direct me to some informative links about converting your non turbo BG body to a turbo? Most of the stuff I've found is heavy on noise, low on how to. Also, what's the story on the KIA transmission that's supposed to take the KAAZ diff? I other words, Swank point me in the right direction.
MFactory makes one for the Escort G-series transmission. Don't know if that fits the BP cars (Mazda G-series trans).
http://www.teammfactory.com/helical-lsd_Ford
Jeff wrote: Can anyone direct me to some informative links about converting your non turbo BG body to a turbo? Most of the stuff I've found is heavy on noise, low on how to. Also, what's the story on the KIA transmission that's supposed to take the KAAZ diff? I other words, Swank point me in the right direction.
Essentially, you start with a BP swap if you don't have one already. The BP came in turbo form in other areas of the world. You can quite literally get all the OEM stuff and on the car for under $1000 if you shop around, and install it all in an afternoon.
You can even get the oem turbo ECU (BP26 i think) and pretty much plug it into your factory harness in many cases.
That's the easy/cheap button, but not necessarily the best way.
As for the diff, MFactory makes a very affordable and good option for the G-series trans. Both 26 and 28 spline. Kia is 28 spline. Not a bad idea to just go Kia setup to start with to get the stronger case.
ClubProtege is probably the only forums to bother with for these cars anymore. I believe there's a couple "how to" or FAQ threads on there on the subject.
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