I know there are lot of patents and otherwise licensed types of trans fluid but are they really the same thing? I changed the diff and ATF fluid on the Camry wagon and ran out of the Valvoline maxlife trans fluid, but I have a quart of ATF Chrysler trans fluid still on the shelf. Can I just dump that stuff in and be okay?
With just a regular automatic trans I can't imagine it would cause any problems.
I wouldn't run the Chrysler stuff. Mopar ATF comes in different varieties and has weird additives. Automatic transmissions run on voodoo magic, and mixing fluids is a great way to upset the slushbox gods. If you're not going to run OE fluid, at least stick with one type. Generally speaking, NO, not all ATF is the same. ATF+4, Dexron/Mercon, weird Pentosin varieties, modern synthetics, all are very different and using the wrong one can destroy an auto trans very quickly.
If it calls for a Dexron type fluid, you can always add a higher grade of Dex. Dex 3 in place of Dex 2. Don't go the other way.
Aisan Warner fwd boxes (Toyota/Volvo/Suzuki) need a special oil to deal with their torque converter design. Any CVT needs magic unicorn pee. If a manufacturer says to use 75w140 synthetic, they know their diff is weak, and it will blow up with 80-90 dino oil.
Streetwiseguy wrote: Any CVT needs magic unicorn pee.
FYI: I just sprayed beer all over my monitor. Well played, sir.
Ok no Chrysler stuff, now how about generic powersteering fluid (Powersteering calls for Dex II also) and if not that how about Lucas universal transmission leak stop?....Trying to avoid a 6 mile walk to the parts store 
I've had to difference transmissions react very negatively to not putting in exactly what they called for (ie I used synthetic versions of what met the standards).
2006 350Z, the appropriate redline wouldn't let the trans go into 1st or reverse when cold, but was buttery smooth once warmed up (this was on a car with 20k miles)
2010 Speed 3, again the appropriate synthetic, made the LSD chatter/grind around corners and shifting suffered.
In both instances, went back with stock and all was well.
In reply to z31maniac:
Guess I'm going to start walking now, missing gears doesn't sound like fun.
Thanks for the help Y'all
In reply to jere:
I think z31 may be talking about manual transmissions...
That said, I know little about automatic transmissions, so I have nothing unique to add.
SlickDizzy wrote: Automatic transmissions run on voodoo magic
qft. this is my say what? nominee =]
How low is it? If it's on the stick, I'd drive to the store.
ShadowSix wrote: In reply to jere: I think z31 may be talking about manual transmissions... That said, I know little about automatic transmissions, so I have nothing unique to add.
I was, but I was under the impression automatics were even more sensitive to proper fluid?
All transmission fluid is the same basic base fluid with different additives. At our shop we have a 500-gallon tank of Sunoco Dex-3, and we have additives which turn it into Honda, Toyota, Merc-5, etc.
Pretty much anything prior to 93 can use Dex-3 without consequence. You can add anything to anything and it will work, much like topping off your tank of premium fuel with a little 87 octane. The difference won't be noticeable.
One shop we have uses a large bulk tank of Dex-3 for nearly everything. Then we have cases of a multi-vehicle synthetic that covers the import stuff. In my 7 years running transmission shops, we have never had a warranty issue because of running the "wrong" fluid. Ford, Chevy, Mopar... they all get dex-3. Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc get the bottles of multi-vehicle.
... obvious exceptions for MB, ZF, and CVT
.... I should add this: With the exception of MB, ZF, and CVT stuff, all transmission fluid is chemically compatible... that is to say, if you put Dex-3 in a transmission with Merc-5 or ATF+4, it won't curdle or explode. The two fluids will mix fine. I've topped up my Ford Van's tranny with Dex-3 even though its filled with Synthetic Merc-5. If there is some difference with the additive package, its certainly not enough to bother with considering its a pint of Dex-3 in a tranny that holds 17 quarts of fluid.
Transmission fluids are NOT the same. For instance, Chrysler transmissions should only use OEM Mopar fluid.
A valve body on an automatic is essentially a computer that uses fluids and pressures instead of electrons and voltages. Putting a different viscosity fluid in there is not a good idea.
Only use the fluid the transmission is designed to use unless you are 100% sure it will work. Older transmissions are much more forgiving than modern ones.
Trans fluid has become something of an issue over the past few years. We started discovering this with the MINI's. For awhile it was in vogue to run Redline MTL, but then it became apparent the transmissions didn't like this if you didn't change the fluid every couple of years. One tuner I've dealt with for years will only use MINI fluid after a few bad experiences with aftermarket stuff (just not worth the risk for him). Unfortunately, the MINI trans fluid is gawd-darn-stupid expensive (seriously - it's nuts).
It turns out the '96 850 is the same way: get Volvo fluid from the dealer. We tried other stuff and well... the results are inconclusive, but after the $$$$ spent on a new transmission I'm not going to risk it again. Fortunately, auto-trans fluid from a Volvo dealer is much cheaper than the MINI MTF.
I only run VW fluids in my TDI transmission and power steering. Coolant as well. VAG cars have a history of being very picky about the fluids used and exploding in spectacular fashion when this is ignored.
I only ever added Lucas Stop-Slip to the Trooper's transmission. This actually completely fixed my automatic transmission woes, because it caused me to say "berkeley This!" and swap to a manual.
Cliff's notes: Automatic transmissions are the devil.
Ian F wrote: I only run VW fluids in my TDI transmission and power steering. Coolant as well. VAG cars have a history of being very picky about the fluids used and exploding in spectacular fashion when this is ignored.
I also have heard this - and completely ignored it. Mobil1 ATF in the PS didn't seem to cause any issues and cost way less than Pentosin or whatever magic juice they were recommending. Unless it somehow made every electronic module on the car die in 80k miles... then I retract that statement.
Most of the car companies package the fluids in their own containers in order to dazzle the customer and make money for the parts/service dept. There are several aftermarket fluids that wil work equally as well at less cost.
This from 100 yrs in the automotive service industry.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: I also have heard this - and completely ignored it. Mobil1 ATF in the PS didn't seem to cause any issues and cost way less than Pentosin or whatever magic juice they were recommending. Unless it somehow made every electronic module on the car die in 80k miles... then I retract that statement.
It's a risk-reward thing. I've had my car since new and know every drop of fluid that's been put into it. VAG p/s fluid is more expensive than M1 ATF, but that $10/qt in savings isn't worth it to me. If it's leaking to the point where I'm putting in enough fluid so it does make a difference, then I'll find the leak and fix it. Fortunately, since I topped it off a couple of years ago, it's been fine.
In comparison, fluids are cheap against a new trans, p/s pump etc. Just use the right stuff.
About the only fluids I have a real "hard-on" for to use OEM are the Mopar's needing ATF +4 or Ford's needing Mercon SP fluid. I know LubeGard makes the "OEM additive" bottles to turn Dex3 into whatever you need, but I haven't seen anything about its long term durability. Typically, if you fragged a trans and the shop gives a 12/12 warranty, by 15k seems about 50% need rebuilding again from what I have witnessed.
I guess, based on what has been said here, I should drain out the JD HyGard fluid I have put in a few of my past transmissions for factory fluid. This includes my wife's Av with its weak 4L60E, which is about the only reason it still seems to be working at 135k...
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