Is there another Mighty-Vac type of product that doesn't suck?

I like the idea of the Mighty-Vac for bleeding brakes and such but the one I purchased was total crap. The canister would not hold a vacuum because the lid did not make a seal against the jar, so it was useless for bleeding brakes. Also, after about 20 minutes of attempted use, brake fluid somehow ended up inside the gauge, and shortly thereafter, the pin that joins the pump linkage to the handle fell out and the thing basically fell apart in my hands.

So is there a "professional" version of the Mighty-Vac, perhaps made by another brand, that is not crap? I would like to know.

I have no experience with either of these tools but Griot's is a place that I think of when looking for a better tool or better way.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/tools/specialty+tools/one-person+brake+bleeder.do
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/tools/specialty+tools/reverse+brake+bleeder+kit.do

I do have experience with a Mighty-Vac that will not hold/build pressure.

I bought the metal Mity-Vac and it seemed pretty good until I got gasoline into the thing and over time the internal parts seem to have broken down. I need to rebuild the thing, which is a feature of the metal unit. Not sure if you go the plastic one or the metal one.

They're super handy to have around but if they're a tool that either works great or is trash.

I've got a plastic non-Mightyvac HF special that was about $25 or so, and it's worked great for 3 cars now. Next year we'll see what's left of it when I take it out of the toolchest.

By the way, I would pay $100 to a world-champ-at-brake-bleeding GRMer in the St. Louis area who'd like to travel to Mascoutah Illinois and bleed the brakes on my 3rd-gen RX7. I've been working at this for a long time and can't get the system to bleed thoroughly such that there is resistance in the pedal. At one point the system was pretty much entirely empty because I re-plumbed the front half of the car.

What kind of car?

Duke wrote: What kind of car?

JamesMcD wrote: bleed the brakes on my 3rd-gen RX7.

I pressure bleed. Vacuum tends to just pull air around the bleed nipples.

Google how to build a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer and finally enjoy bleeding and flushing brakes. Cost? About $15, maybe more if you buy the special Motive adapter for the master cylinder reservoir.

I have a Mighty-vac that I bought in the late 80's, and it still works great. I just used it on my brakes a few weeks ago.

It creates a vacuum. Its supposed to suck.

I also have a metal mity-vac, but I've only used it once to bleed brakes and it worked well enough. The canister assembly on mine has broken as well, but you can replace it with a Lisle version from your FLAPS. I mainly use it to prime the new fuel filter on my TDi every 20K miles and don't use the canister.

In reply to turboswede:

When you pressure bleed you're forcing air into the fluid, vacuum bleeding does not do that. Why would you worry about pulling air bubbles into your bleed bottle?

I've been using a (Griots) vacuum bleeder 10-15 times a year for the last 7 seasons without a problem. Just make sure you keep the MC topped off during the process.

In reply to Dashpot: because you'll be there all day trying to pull fluid out and just getting air bubbles around the bleeders.

If you follow the proper procedures for pressure bleeding, you'll finish with no air in the system and a topped off reservoir. Why? Because you're not forcing air into the reservoir, you're pushing fluid into it and the end of the line that goes into the reservoir is below the top of the fluid.

At work I use a pressure bleeder that has a diaphragm between the fluid and the air pressure. I find it to be much faster and better at bleeding then my mighty vac.
In fact, at home, I just use a one-man bleed kit made out of a gatorade bottle and vacuum hose before I use the mighty-vac. NEVER have had a problem with my recycled bleed kit.

Once I installed speed bleeders, the whole brake bleeding job became so easy. Here is just one link. These are readily available from different retailers.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Russell-Performance/Product-Line/Russell-Speed-Bleeders/?autoview=sku

Cone_Junky wrote: At work I use a pressure bleeder that has a diaphragm between the fluid and the air pressure. I find it to be much faster and better at bleeding then my mighty vac.

The pro-version ain't cheap...

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-12848-branick-g300.aspx

My experience with speed bleeders has been positive as well, so far... but some have commented they stop working if the thread sealant wears away or don't work well at all if the caliper threads are a tad sloppy.

I had a plastic real mighty-vac unit for 15 years when it broke i got the all metal one for HF and it works well but like yours the jar seal sucks only seals 4 out of 5 times... and it only has one port unlike the mighty -vac that had a presure port so you could check things like carb float pop off etc. but i also have home made electric vac pump bleaer and a presure bleeder too

Quick hijack on this. Explain to me the need for pressure/vacuum bleeders? I have to replace one of the calipers on my Tahoe and was going to bleed the brakes the old fashion pump, hold, "floor" method.

Is there something about new cars that requires the use of one of these things? Or, is it just the convenience of being able to bleed brakes with one person?

-Rob

I made a blake breeder using fish tank parts. The one-way valves are the same as those used in the "one man" bleed setups for a fraction of the price. Just use some gas line teflon tape on the bleed screws and go to town. If you build four of them, you can do the whole system simultaneously.

Some ABS cars require a pressure bleeder as well as a computer to set the system so the ABS control valve is bled.

That said, I use the 2-person method when I can. Usually faster.

With some cars its nearly impossible to bleed the brakes without a pressure bleeder after major disassembley. Most of the time just changing a caliper shouldnt be too big a deal to do it the normal way.

JamesMcD wrote: Is there another Mighty-Vac type of product that doesn't suck?

Actually, I think you're looking for another Mity-Vac type unit that does suck. You already own one that doesn't.

trucke wrote: Once I installed speed bleeders, the whole brake bleeding job became so easy. Here is just one link. These are readily available from different retailers. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Russell-Performance/Product-Line/Russell-Speed-Bleeders/?autoview=sku

Where have those things been all my life?

friedgreencorrado wrote:

trucke wrote: Once I installed speed bleeders, the whole brake bleeding job became so easy. Here is just one link. These are readily available from different retailers. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Russell-Performance/Product-Line/Russell-Speed-Bleeders/?autoview=sku

Where have *those* things been all my life?

In the Help! section of your local Pep Boys. About $12/pair the last time I checked.

I've had two MV's and they suck, in a bad way. I've used the pro-style pressure bleeders and there is no way a competent tech that knows what is going on is going to put air into the system.
I'll google the DIY garden sprayer, sounds interesting.