wish I hadn't seen this. Though 175k is a lot of miles, that seems like a strong deal pretty local to me. High mileage just means the LS2 swap comes sooner!
wish I hadn't seen this. Though 175k is a lot of miles, that seems like a strong deal pretty local to me. High mileage just means the LS2 swap comes sooner!
I didn't read through the X pages of "bump", but that appears to be a sunroof delete 5-speed sedan. At that price, I'd go look at it if I hadn't just pulled the trigger on something else.
alex wrote: Since I'm not really in the position to buy immediately anyway, I'll go ahead and spill the beans. This is the one that got me thinking really hard about an M3 sedan. http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=136100 What do those of you with some experience think about that car specifically? Unless you all think this is a screaming bargain. In which case: dibs.
Looks like a nice car. I'd check it out, and if anything get a pre-purchase inspection done by a shop.
Most of the stuff people said covers you - key issues are things like cooling system, bushings, guibo, etc. Also expect VANOS to go at some point. Dr. VANOS has replacements for ~$400.
Josh wrote:Brust wrote: I haven't tracked it yet, but hope to soon. Also, I think the money shift is from 5th to 2nd- apparently the Turner motorsports transmission mount enforcers (TME's) really help the cause.UUC makes those, not turner. I run straight UUC urethane mounts without the TMEs, the TMEs aren't really necessary with a urethane mount. I don't mind the (very minimal) added vibration of the urethane mounts, I'd recommend that over the stock mounts with TMEs (the urethane is generally cheaper and better performing).
Do you use the red "race" version or the street version?
I have the isolated red mounts (option 2 on this page):
I will say that the torque specs are crucial though. If you overtorque these they will transmit vibration to the cabin. When I first put them in I just cranked them down with a wrench until they were tight and I got some vibration. Retorqued them to spec and it went right away.
bludroptop wrote: I didn't read through the X pages of "bump", but that appears to be a sunroof delete 5-speed sedan. At that price, I'd go look at it if I hadn't just pulled the trigger on something else.
Are those hen's teeth, or something? I mean it's desirable to me personally, but would that bode well for resale?
Thanks for the info on the mounts!
As to the "hens teeth" of the 5 speed, sunroof delete sedan.... Affirmative. And I think their resale value is higher for it. The sunroof is just another thing you have to fix or do a "self delete" mod on. Seriously, if I hadn't gotten the one I have now, I'd be interested.
It's probably the rarest body/drivetrain configuration of M3 outside of special editions, there were only 4000 4-door manuals, and I'd estimate 10% of them are non-sunroof cars. Add in Estoril (pretty rare on the sedans) and there's probably low double digits of that car in the states.
I've seen this car from about 100 feet. It looks kind of E36 M3ty, but its a cheap E36 M3. Sounds like it needs a cage and a removable hardtop.
1999 BMW M3 Conv - $3000 (Southbury) Date: 2010-01-25, 7:50PM EST Reply to: sale-fzvcx-1570544565@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
1999 BMW M3 Conv. 5 speed project car VT rebuilt title $3000 or best offer please email if interested edscoville@charter.net Car has a 318 top which needs to be replaced. New rear tires.
alex wrote:Brust wrote: Parts are generally reasonable- except for one: the door seals are absolutely outrageous: $320 was the best price I could find.This was my experience with BMW motorcycles, too. Most of the parts (and maintenance) makes you wonder where the reputation for being expensive comes from, but every now and then there's that outlier that makes your wallet hurt. Good information. Thanks.
The bad rep on BMWs comes from people not doing research on the cars and then learning after they have one that they need to spend $500 (or $1500 if they go to a dealership) on the cooling system. Of course they haven't budgeted for it. Then it gets repeated by friend and friends of friends who are outraged because they don't have to do that on their civics.
I have never owned a BMW, but when the poster asked about maintenance, the cooling system and shifter were the first thing that I thought of just from reading about BMWs so much.
$5500 for a car that has 175k on it? Does that seem steep to anyone else? I'm probably full of E36 M3. 
many problems can be cured cheaply. I think window motors and regulators were mentioned. One of the first things you should do is pull the door panels (careful, they are fragile) and scrape and clean out ALL the nasty grease in the bottom traveler for the window.
Over time this grease collects all sorts of gunk and goes from being a lubricant to a glue. Clean it out and regrease.. and you should not have any problems with the windows breaking their sliders and falling down into the door. I used wheel bearing grease on mine.
Definatly replace the waterpump and thermostat for the metal ones. the plastic degrades over time and in the case of the waterpump, the impeller will break off and overheat the car.. and BMWs do not like to be overheated. While you are there, replace the belts, tensioners, and hoses.
BMW radiators are partially plastic and they too degrade. Either replace and not worry about them for another 100,000 miles, or go expensive and get an all metal one.
People recomend removing the cooling fan to keep it from "exploding" and taking out the radiator. I would consider at least replacing it. The main problem is that the clearance between the cooling fan and the housing is on the thin side. Work engine and trans mounts can allow the engine to move enough to close this gap, allowing fan to hit shroud and disintergrate.
Low speed steering I heard mentioned. best bang for the Buck is either M3 steering rack.. OR.. even better.. the M roadster/coupe rack. It is a LOT faster and requires less turns from lock to lock. It is a direct bolt in.
I would replace all the bushings with poly. I did this with my Ti and have not really noticed any more vibration.. but it is a LOT more precise. It is an easy to do job on your own. you will need a press for the "lollipop" bushings. The front control arms are easy, but you will hate the driver's side due to a lack of room. I cannot comment on the rear as my Ti uses a different rear suspension.
Shocks and struts are easy. unlike the earlier e30.. the strut is a seperate unit from the spindle. Three bolts at the spindle, three at the top, unclip any wires for the brake sensor and ABS and the brake line. and you can pull them right out. Shocks are even easier. Upgrade the upper rear shock mounts to E46 mounts or go poly as these tend to have short lifespans and cause a nasty clunk when worn.
The interior is where all E36s fail. While a good design, it was rather cheaply made and the door panels can fall off when the glue holding the clips on fails and the fabric headliner will fall down just like any other car from the late 80s through the 90s. At least you do not need to pull the rear and side windows to pull it out like you do in an E30.
Any problems, send me a note. I can help on most as I have had my Ti all but completly apart over the years. My E36 has 140,000 miles on it.. the owner before me totalled it and badly abused it.. but aside from a bad fuel pump, the car has never failed to start and get me where I need to go. It has actually been more reliable than the Hyundai I had before it.
Regarding the exploding fan: my impression is that it tends to happen on vehicles that have worn/broken trans/engine mounts. Same for the money shift....
Nathan
Xceler8x wrote: $5500 for a car that has 175k on it? Does that seem steep to anyone else? I'm probably full of E36 M3.
Not if you watch E36 M3 prices. It seems like it might be a good deal if it doesn't have any huge problems. The lowest I see 100K+ mile M3s dip locally is about $7500. If I were in the market for such a car, I think I'd deffinitely check that one out.
I've seen some good deals on some lately as well:
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/1588642948.html
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/1603594746.html
Both mention the cooling system upgrades. The high mileage on these don't bother me so much because my buddy bought a 98 with 30k miles (back in 2000) and it had lots of small problems as well. Seems the low-mileage doesn't really alleviate the small issues, so might as well by the higher mileage (more affordable) car as long as it's been maintained!
njansenv wrote: Regarding the exploding fan: my impression is that it tends to happen on vehicles that have worn/broken trans/engine mounts. Same for the money shift.... Nathan
exactly. The worn and borked mounts allow the engine and trans to move around too much..
OP: What's your definition of cheap? Compared to the cost of ownership of a new M3, my car is pocket lint.
My tired M3 cost me seven grand two years ago. In the time since I've replaced the back tires twice, replaced the rear struts, replaced the alternator, recharged the a/c, and performed scheduled maintenance - for a total cost of about $750. Next on the agenda are replacement drivetrain and suspension mounts (not unexpected for a car of nearly 170K miles) and a fan delete. The car is my daily driver and gets a thrashing every autocross / DE season. It's the best beater sedan I've owned.
nderwater wrote: OP: What's your definition of cheap? Compared to the cost of ownership of a new M3, my car is pocket lint.
Your description fits my definition of cheap.
Good information here. Thanks, all. Keep it coming and I think we'll have a definitive GRM E36 M3 thread.
njansenv wrote: Regarding the exploding fan: my impression is that it tends to happen on vehicles that have worn/broken trans/engine mounts. Same for the money shift.... Nathan
Yup, I had a blade crack on my cooling fan, and that's how I found a bad engine mount.
Clay wrote: I've seen some good deals on some lately as well: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/1588642948.html http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/1603594746.html Both mention the cooling system upgrades. The high mileage on these don't bother me so much because my buddy bought a 98 with 30k miles (back in 2000) and it had lots of small problems as well. Seems the low-mileage doesn't really alleviate the small issues, so might as well by the higher mileage (more affordable) car as long as it's been maintained!
I feel like condition trumps mileage by a lot on these cars. Any e36 is at the age where the cooling, suspension rubber, and shifter should probably be addressed, and once you do everything else is probably good for 250k. So the difference between a nice 100k car and a nice 170k car is mostly academic.
In reply to njansenv:
Don't worry about C4 work -- that clamshell hood makes most things really accessible. I can bleed all brakes without taking off the wheels.
Alex, did you get the M3?
I called about that car two weeks ago but ended up going for a very special 328i. I'll have pictures and a little background in my readers ride garage in the next few days..
If you did get the car. I want to see pictures, including the new hood mods ;-)
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