Is this a Dumb Idea?

Another vote for the rattle can idea. I've used these guys (link below) on the web before and the paint match was very good considering being sprayed from a can.

Paint Scratch

mtn wrote: Just think of a BMW M3 that says 318i!

If I ever get another E36 M3, I am SOOO doing this... just the rear badge... leaving all of the other M3 bits alone... should REALLY screw with the fan-bois... especially all of the non-M cars I see around here with ///M badges on the back...

As far as the faux CF, eh... not my cup of tea, but if it floats your boat, why not?

Well, after hearing everyones argument, ive decided to go AGAINST the idea of doing it. I mean, ive found real carbon trunk lids on ebay for less than $400, or ive rattled canned a couple of cars in my past and know how to use spray paint. So, Im thinking i can just keep searching for a blue deck lid, or buy the red one and paint it blue or black, or just save up and buy a real carbon one. Appreciate the input guys and gals...

Maybe I'm missing something here (wouldn't be the first time) but if you tried to wrap the trunk lid, wouldn't you have to slap some bondo on the dents anyway? Otherwise you might end up with them showing anyway...

Unless I got that wrong, you'd be halfway to a rattle can job at that point in time already?

BoxheadTim wrote: Maybe I'm missing something here (wouldn't be the first time) but if you tried to wrap the trunk lid, wouldn't you have to slap some bondo on the dents anyway? Otherwise you might end up with them showing anyway...

i was going to buy a different color trunk lid and wrap it, the trunk lid i was going to buy is dent free...

hey guys. i own that site and i'm the primary installer.

i don't want to plug my site or anything- but i'll answer any questions you have about the product and installing it!

Are there similar wraps available that aren't faux carbon fiber? I might consider wrapping a beater car, but in a solid color as opposed to going for a carbon fiber look.

sure are. i've been dying to test out the wood grain on something ;)

seriously though, there are a bunch. i like flat black & flat silver.

wrapping a full car with a solid is almost as much as a decent Maaco job the carbon is much more expensive. however- repair is easier. maintenance is eaier. etc. etc.

there is an article on full car vinyl wraps in the new hot rod (my brother has a subscription). Looks like a full car wrap would be in the $3k area and would last 5 years.

Doesn't sound like that great a deal to me compared to paint.

A GOOD paint job runs around $2500-$3000.

The only real benefits are the look, and the fact you can repair it yourself.

Really, wrapping a full car is silly. Wrapping a bike is much more economical.

andrave wrote: there is an article on full car vinyl wraps in the new hot rod (my brother has a subscription). Looks like a full car wrap would be in the $3k area and would last 5 years. Doesn't sound like that great a deal to me compared to paint.

We're trying a full vinyl wrap on one of the project cars soon. You'll know it when you see it, it isn't subtle.

andrave wrote: there is an article on full car vinyl wraps in the new hot rod (my brother has a subscription). Looks like a full car wrap would be in the $3k area and would last 5 years. Doesn't sound like that great a deal to me compared to paint.

Wow...that is a lot more than I would have guessed. No full vinyl wrap for me.

You need to look at it this way-

There are various grades of vinyl.

I can wrap an entire car for $1000. It's quality vinyl, the BEST that any sign shop i've seen uses (for lettering, not wraps)

Thing is, its not the best vinyl there is. Its vinyl, you CAN wrap with it, but its not vinyl SPECIFIC for wrapping. It'll harden and crack earlier than products like 3M's Di-NOC. You'll get a good 2 years out of it, but the next two will be filled will replacing pieces one by one- and when using colors like white... it shows.

jbell wrote: You need to look at it this way- There are various grades of vinyl. I can wrap an entire car for $1000. It's quality vinyl, the BEST that any sign shop i've seen uses (for lettering, not wraps) Thing is, its not the best vinyl there is. Its vinyl, you CAN wrap with it, but its not vinyl SPECIFIC for wrapping. It'll harden and crack earlier than products like 3M's Di-NOC. You'll get a good 2 years out of it, but the next two will be filled will replacing pieces one by one- and when using colors like white... it shows.

3M offers some Oracal products with specific (outdoor applications) and claim the vinyl lasts well over 5 years.

How much would you charge for a complete car wrap using that or a similar product?

Inquiring minds want to know!

I may be mistaken, but 3M and Oracal are different companies.

I've worked in the sign industry for quite some time- and in my experience... it's not going to last that long.

The outdoor products aren't designed to be wrapped. They are made to be cut and applied to make things like letters and shapes.

After stretching it to wrap something, the vinyl is compromised- mainly of its lifespan. It's slightly thinner, and WILL not last the full quoted lifespan.

Now, when using vinyl that is DESIGNED with wrapping in mind, you will usually reach that quoted lifespan.

After all my experience, there are two options:

1. Use the right product, pay close to a real paint job, but have something HIGHLY unique, like dry carbon. It will be much easier to repair and maintain. However- you'll need to care for it... just like you would a $3000 paint job. Don't leave it in the sun for days on end. Get a cover, use a garage. etc.

2. Use a cheaper product, get the job done for about $1000. Its quoted for 7-9 year outdoor life. You'll have a vinyl wrapped car, it will look good. You'll have to replace panels as they deteriorate in 3-4 years though. It may have a winkle on an edge here or there. It may crack on complex corners. It's the Maaco job of vinyl.

jbell wrote: I may be mistaken, but 3M and Oracal are different companies. I've worked in the sign industry for quite some time- and in my experience... it's not going to last that long. The outdoor products aren't designed to be wrapped. They are made to be cut and applied to make things like letters and shapes. After stretching it to wrap something, the vinyl is compromised- mainly of its lifespan. It's slightly thinner, and WILL not last the full quoted lifespan. Now, when using vinyl that is DESIGNED with wrapping in mind, you will usually reach that quoted lifespan. After all my experience, there are two options: 1. Use the right product, pay close to a real paint job, but have something HIGHLY unique, like dry carbon. It will be much easier to repair and maintain. However- you'll need to care for it... just like you would a $3000 paint job. Don't leave it in the sun for days on end. Get a cover, use a garage. etc. 2. Use a cheaper product, get the job done for about $1000. Its quoted for 7-9 year outdoor life. You'll have a vinyl wrapped car, it will look good. You'll have to replace panels as they deteriorate in 3-4 years though. It may have a winkle on an edge here or there. It may crack on complex corners. It's the Maaco job of vinyl.

Thanks, jbell!

Any recommendations for applying auto-spec vinyl on the flat surfaces that have suffered mightily from constant sun exposure? Specifically, the sections would be the hood, roof and rear deck of a Prelude and the hood and roof of a Civic hatch.

As for wrinkles on complex corners, I've acquired some over the years and it's just not an issue.

Does application entail a steep learning curve, as this is something I'd to try on my own?

Thanks, again, for all info!

In reply to oldsaw:

As for sitting in the sun... if it's gonna happen, its gonna happen. Nothing you can really do will help it. Just get the best quality stuff you can.

Application can be tricky, but for beginners or really complex jobs, I use liquid to help ease the application.

Basically, take a water bottle, spritz the entire roof, and apply the vinyl that way. It'll allow you to lift it easier, and reposition it while you work.

This is especially useful when applying in the heat, when the vinyl likes to stick as soon as it touches the surface

You need to be sure to get all the bubbles out, since most will have water behind them though. Again, this is made easier by applying liquid in the first place.

my site will have tons of install info soon. I have a few pictures of applications though: www.drycarbonwrap.com/gallery.html

Applying it is a skill much like painting. I partially wrapped my E30 and my P71. It was fun. It was quiet, not smelly, not toxic, easy to do a panel at a time if you are limited on time, and it looked really cool in the Gerber Scientific satin black that I bought.

It peeled easily off the 325 with some heat but the crummy Earl Scheiby respray on the cop car pulled off with a bunch of the vinyl.

I will definitely try it again. I was thinking matte yellow on the turbo brick.

In reply to Lugnut:

for a volvo... go matte gold. much more satisfying in the end. i'd do matte gold with flat black accents- maybe the upper half.

resprays and vinyl are no good together. a full on repaint should have no problems though.

I was thinking more like the yellow of a Breitling Emergency. Something safety oriented and completely obnoxious! :)

jbell wrote: In reply to oldsaw: As for sitting in the sun... if it's gonna happen, its gonna happen. Nothing you can really do will help it. Just get the best quality stuff you can. Application can be tricky, but for beginners or really complex jobs, I use liquid to help ease the application. Basically, take a water bottle, spritz the entire roof, and apply the vinyl that way. It'll allow you to lift it easier, and reposition it while you work. This is especially useful when applying in the heat, when the vinyl likes to stick as soon as it touches the surface You need to be sure to get all the bubbles out, since most will have water behind them though. Again, this is made easier by applying liquid in the first place. my site will have tons of install info soon. I have a few pictures of applications though: www.drycarbonwrap.com/gallery.html

You are great!

I was considering cutting templates to avoid making too many mistakes and to save on the vinyl use.

This will be a project restricted to cooler seasons as Georgia gets rather hot and I do not have a garage.

Your site is bookmarked for constant reference! I'll be glad to forward my experiences once the install begins.

Thanks, again!

oldsaw wrote:

jbell wrote: In reply to oldsaw: As for sitting in the sun... if it's gonna happen, its gonna happen. Nothing you can really do will help it. Just get the best quality stuff you can. Application can be tricky, but for beginners or really complex jobs, I use liquid to help ease the application. Basically, take a water bottle, spritz the entire roof, and apply the vinyl that way. It'll allow you to lift it easier, and reposition it while you work. This is especially useful when applying in the heat, when the vinyl likes to stick as soon as it touches the surface You need to be sure to get all the bubbles out, since most will have water behind them though. Again, this is made easier by applying liquid in the first place. my site will have tons of install info soon. I have a few pictures of applications though: www.drycarbonwrap.com/gallery.html

You are great! I was considering cutting templates to avoid making too many mistakes and to save on the vinyl use. This will be a project restricted to cooler seasons as Georgia gets rather hot and I do not have a garage. Your site is bookmarked for constant reference! I'll be glad to forward my experiences once the install begins. Thanks, again!

Templates are more hassle than they're worth.

Just use square pieces, and trim the excess once the panel is smooth and done. Trim with enough to wrap to the other side.

Also- lets say you're using a template for a fender. the templates will give you a fender sized piece of vinyl. You have no excess to grab when you're stretching and stuff. That means your fingers will be all over the vinyl that will eventually be on the surface.

Leave the excess as "handes". Once you cut it off, see if the glue is still good, and if so... they are great for little patches, interior bits, etc.

Oh, and when applying in the cold, be sure to go over EVERYTHING with a heat gun or good hair dryer then a squeegee. This is especially important because the glue in most quality vinyl is heat/pressure activated. It will 'stick' without the heat/pressure, but it's not really APPLIED yet... hope that makes sense.