And for the next chapter of "Nohome does stuff he does not know how to do", we have a jag e-type rear suspension that needs to be assembled. I did not take it apart and have no idea how it goes together. What could go wrong?
I do know that it should look like this when done
This is what it looks like now only picture it like the table fell over and all the parts got tossed in a dozen unlabeled boxes.
Wish me luck
Do yourself a favor and install remote bleeders now. There is no reason not to.
The Bentley manual will have all the deets. Have fun!
I want to say VolvoClearingHome recently did one and has offered advice in the past.
In reply to Trent :
Those are on the list. Plenty of manuals on hand and plenty of YouTube stuff to give me the overall sense of how it might go together. I have learned the hard way that "order of operation awareness" is key to this game.
I wonder what a rear brake job cost on one of these things?
Its almost funny...Every time I think that the Brits could not do worse at production engineering, they come out and prove me wrong!
Will see if I can find VolvoClearinghouse's thread. I don't recall it from recent times?
In reply to NOHOME :
I have one apart presently as well. The most important thing you need is the dummy outer pivot alignment tool, it is just 5/8" steel rod 6.15"long, and do not hammer the real pivot through, make some way to push it without shocking. If you don't have the factory manual, don't try.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
First I have heard of the dummy shaft. I am guessing this is so that you do not disturb the bearing and shim stack on the one side while the pivot shaft transitions from the other side?
These guys sure like their shims dont they?
On the subject of camber setting. I realize that it is done with shims stacked against the disc, effectively changing the length of the upper control arm. Good idea to leave what was there in place when reassembling. What is the process for when those shims were removed by the person who took it apart who was not me? How did the factory baseline camber?
I just distribute the shims evenly and let the alignment tech take it from there. The car has to be at ride height to get a proper measurement
In reply to Trent :
That was kind of my thought. Of course I also thought that I would make it so the shims slide in without having to fully remove the axle. Or maybe "Why did the engineers not put an eccentric on the lower control arm inner pivot?"
This bad boy put me on notice today when I went to remove the inner pivots from the differential. That is an easy two minute job of removing 4 easy to reach bolts. Nope. The heads rounded and or the bolts broke due to being necked down by corrosion.
I won in the end. Two hours later.
Trent said:The Bentley manual will have all the deets. Have fun!
I would avoid the Haynes manual
"Assembly is a reversal of dismantling"
I never learned to swear backwards when using a Haynes manual.
JoeTR6 said:I never learned to swear backwards when using a Haynes manual.
It's probably for the best. There were a lot of magickians in England at the time, swearing backwards while spilling blood on old English steel may call up some demon.
On the other hand, maybe it could be persuaded with an offering of beer to get the SUs sorted out for you.
So, apropos of nothing other than British engineering always leaving me amused.
What is with all the bolts being safery wired? The ones on this rear end have been done by someone who had no concept of how it was meant to work. And yet all the fasteners are present and accounted for.
Is it possible that it is more of an affectation, based on E-Type racing lore and marketing than of any real need to avoid auto-disasembly? I gotz the pliers and know the method, but wager that a drop of blue Loctite would serve as well and not leave all the fastener heads in a weak condition due to the swiss cheese effects of safety wire. Fear not, Tradition will prevail in this case but I do wonder.
Ever see safety wired connecting rod nuts?
Logically, if the nuts are loose enough that safety wire is keeping them in place, you already have problems... but that didn't stop engineers from back then to wire the nuts to keep the shoemaker gnomes or whoever from loosening the nuts.
Jags still had safety wired caliper bolts on the last of the XJs. Why? Because tradition, I guess.
So today was fun.
What I found out today was that in all of the assorted boxes of assorted parts that I did not take apart, there are components from TWO Jag rear suspensions. One is E-type and one is XJ6
The fun bit is sorting out what exactly CAN be built with the parts on hand. Lots of nuances to sort out like seals and seal surface/spacers. Good question is if the driveshaft and lower control arm are E type or XJ6; pretty sure that track width will be different. Already found out the stub-axles are not the same spline. Close but not the same.
The halfshaft ( driveshaft?) Has the marking 15487b and BRD . No luck finding out if this is the XJ6 halfshaft or the e-type. Same for the Fulcrum.
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