Jimmy is coming....$2012

Dave, that's the best news I've heard all day.

I've raced with Bruce a few times (not against him). That "truck" is awesome. The sound it makes is just

Why change the bolt pattern? Just get wheels to fit. You'll have different ones front to rear, but who cares? If you're buying new they'll match appearance wise. Lot's of cheap steel racing wheels out there and it would save drilling axles and rotors.

Chapter 1: Jimmy gets a Heart

It has taken a month, but think I have gathered all the parts I need, and I know the plan/direction toward completion of this build. The motor is very certain. My budget is a whopping outgoing cost of $400 for the motor/parts. I will recoup some of that back with the sale of unneeded parts.

I found a 2002? 5.3l LS 185,000 mile motor out of a wrecked Suburban. Price was right. Came with a 145amp alternator that was worth most of the amount I paid.

Overall, pretty complete engine, with harness, accessories, but that is where my purchase price excitement dies. The front drivers side took a hard shot. The accessory bracket/PS pump was broken and replaced. Four of the exhaust manifold bolts are broken on the driver’s side and 2 on the passenger side. If you have never had the pleasure of LS motor exhaust bolts, you are in for a treat. They break off in the aluminum heads without even trying. It will take me all day to drill and carefully extract these 6 bolts. I'm just glad the threads don't bottom out in the head. Another set of heads would be a big timesaver.

Also what else is broken? Well, at least 1 coil is broken. PS reservoir has a crack. The harmonic balancer is chipped and very questionable. Truthfully, I will probably need another complete core engine (later model a must...2005 or newer, I will explain later) 4.8l/5.3l to scavenge parts from.

Back to this motor, So, what are my plans for it? As simple as possible. I am changing the camshaft out. Getting rid of the .466/.457, 190/191, 114 LSA camshaft and buying a brand spanking new (Part # 12638427) 2011 Corvette LS9 blower camshaft (from www.gmpartsdirect.com) with specs .558/.552, 211/230, and 122.5 LSA. I think it is the best bargain in the horsepower world. All of GM’s current knowledge for $96.50. I will change out the valve springs to a set of yellow or other used LS beehive springs off of EBay. I will also have to change out the front timing cover.

The LS9 camshaft is front read (Gen IV up) and the early LS (Gen III) is rear block read. You can see the timing chain top gear is un-bumped.

Here is my same motor stripped. Looks pretty ugly as compared to a few hours ago. The Gen IV model core motor I need will give up its timing cover with camshaft position sensor. I need a front cover and cam gear like these:

I have a D and need to Change to a C: http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/ls-camshaft-sensor-sprocket-or-gear-amp-crankshaft-relector-id-page Other parts the motor is getting is 72lb injectors run at a fat 65lbs of pressure and a real LS6 intake picked up at the Perry swap meet a couple of weeks ago. The only reason I am using this intake is because they look really pretty.

I need to sell the spare exhaust manifolds, complete truck intake, etc. If you need something just ask.

Right now it is to be twin turbo with a pair of Craigslist T3 57mm turbos. I will pull them apart and check them. Wish me luck. One seems tight and the other has bent fins. I would have liked bigger ones(T4’s/65mm or so), but I will see if these flow what I want. The down pipes are only 2.5”. My goal is intercooled 20lbs on C116. That should bring to life that camshaft. There is always the thought of finding a short stroke 4.8l (less backpressure?, easier on the rod bolts? and more useable rpm? 6800? instead of 6300?) to turbo charge….decisions, decisions.

Stock rods, pistons, rod bolts, everything else. I will even reuse the stock multilayer head gaskets. A shot of RTV and clamp them back down. KMJ performance (www.kmjent.com) sells a LS head stud kit for about $65.00? that I will consider if the budget allows.

Oh, some marginal saving for the build, I bought billet fuel rail material, and a stupid expensive drill bit from Kinser Fuel Injection to drill the fuel rails. When I an done, I will loan it out, if you want to drill your own fuel rails. Just ask.

My thoughts on the oil pan is to take an early C5 Corvette 1 piece batwing oil pan and cutoff the driver’s side batwing and patch the hole. From my measuring it should be low enough to clear the front differential. Loping off the batwing area should give me the room I need to clear the front drive shaft. Later pans seem to be 2 piece and more money.

Gasoline wrote: I'm thinking out loud. One of my big concerns is the rearend. It is the little standard 7.5". It is RPO code G80 and GT4 that translated to the instantly destructible gov-lock, 3.73 gears. I have looked under 100's of S10's, Blazer's, Sonoma's, etc., at the 3 Atlanta PullAParts for a big ZR2 8.5" rearend to no avail. One of the things I really like about building a Jimmy/Blazer/S10 is the standard Chevy 5X4.75" wheel bolt pattern. That gives opportunity for many cheap wide wheel candidates. I could get a 8.5" from a 1500 truck etc., but I lose the 5X4.75 pattern. Any ideas?

being the jimmy is just a blazer, which is just an s10...

I know the s10 guys like to swap ford 8.8 rear ends into em... they sell "conversion U joints" and it's bolt in (for the RWD ones at least)... i'm fairly certian it's not far off for 4x4... but does give disimilar bolt patterns front to rear

donalson wrote:

Gasoline wrote: I'm thinking out loud. One of my big concerns is the rearend. It is the little standard 7.5". It is RPO code G80 and GT4 that translated to the instantly destructible gov-lock, 3.73 gears. I have looked under 100's of S10's, Blazer's, Sonoma's, etc., at the 3 Atlanta PullAParts for a big ZR2 8.5" rearend to no avail. One of the things I really like about building a Jimmy/Blazer/S10 is the standard Chevy 5X4.75" wheel bolt pattern. That gives opportunity for many cheap wide wheel candidates. I could get a 8.5" from a 1500 truck etc., but I lose the 5X4.75 pattern. Any ideas?

being the jimmy is just a blazer, which is just an s10... I know the s10 guys like to swap ford 8.8 rear ends into em... they sell "conversion U joints" and it's bolt in (for the RWD ones at least)... i'm fairly certian it's not far off for 4x4... but does give disimilar bolt patterns front to rear

Yep! That is pretty close to the best plan I have come up with. I was looking hard for a Sonoma/Blazer/Other? ZR2 8.5 rear-end, but had no luck at all.

I ended picking up a 2000 Ford Explorer rear-end (grand total $65.00 PullAPart) with almost 13" rear disc brakes. It is kind of cool. I get fat 31 spline axles, 3.25 tubes, factory posi, and 3.73 gears. I think the GM 8.5" is 28 spline axles. I re-drilled the rotors and axles already for Corvette 5X4.75 wheels.

Here is where I thought I would run into problems with AWD and different tire sizes front to back. There has been a set of take off Corvette Grand Sport wheels sitting at a local tire shop for sale. Owner went to some sort of cheaper common C6 size wheels and much more affordable tires. That is what Gerald said.

They are monster 19x12" and 18x9.5". With the free Kumho tire benefit I bought 26.9" diameter rear tires and 24.8" diameter front tires. The factory gears in the Jimmy are actually 3.42. If I run the 3.42 in the front differential, and a 24.8" diameter front tire, and in the back the Explorer 3.73 gears with 26.9" diameter rear tires @ 6500 rpm it turned out to be 149 mph and 150 mph. There has got to be a little slip in the viscous coupler in the BW4472 transfer case anyway?....I have not come up with a problem yet. Just run it and see what happens. That is what I am thinking......and I get sharp aluminum wheels that actually match front to back....

subscribed

i don't see a problem with the different gears and using tire diameter to make it work, it's been done before. i did it for a whole winter on a plow truck with 3.08 in front and 3.73 in rear when the 10 bolt exploded.

FYI on the manifold bolts. heat head around bolt with propane torch, left hand drill bit (5/16ish) with drill set on slow, push hard to bite. the 2 broken ones on my 5.3(with 160k miles less than yours) came right out. then i used ARP stainless header bolts with anti seize and lock washers.

Panademic

I had in mind that the C5 stamped stainless exhaust manifolds would work great, but I am having second thoughts. For ease of packaging, I am running the turbo's topside. Doing so with the stamped ones puts the air tubes on the bottom in the way of the spark plugs. I could grind out half moons and weld them back up, but that is more work. I think the cast ones may be Cadillac CTS? The seller must have had 20 pair...I wish I had bought more.

This morning I made some little teapots as go betweens from the exhaust manifolds to the T3 turbo's. TIGged first time with a nickel rod. Mild steel flanges and some sort of scrap stainless exhaust. Still need to add a wastegate port in the outside bend.

Mock up, as they currently roost. I don't know what to think.....? I suppose that will work for now. Going back out and start bending up the roll cage.

Gasoline wrote: Mock up, as they currently roost. I don't know what to think.....? I suppose that will work for now. Going back out and start bending up the roll cage.

I believe this is what they call:

Doing it Right.

This is berkeleying glorious.

Fan-damn-tastic.

Gasoline wrote: Mock up, as they currently roost. I don't know what to think.....? I suppose that will work for now. Going back out and start bending up the roll cage.

Looks like the engine is flexing . . .

"Yea . . . I'm a berkeleying badass"

Javelin wrote: Subscribed!

+1

More inspiration from the black hill climb gmc: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-WMA1s6Gw0&feature=related

looking forward to this!

rickdiculous...

bluej wrote: More inspiration from the black hill climb gmc: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-WMA1s6Gw0&feature=related looking forward to this!

Cool! Keep them coming! Your wants I will build toward.

Out with the old, in with the new, ZR1 blower camshaft

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com GM PART # 12638427 CATEGORY: Engine Camshaft

Price: $97.93