Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
4/21/18 9:40 p.m.

The last time I dealt with wheel hop, other than in my SRT4, was in my 56 Chev, way back on the 70's.  Chrome traction bars and pinion snubbers were the best answer back then.  Is there a better, modern answer, and is it spelled Cal Tracs?

  

barefootskater
barefootskater Reader
4/21/18 10:45 p.m.

Thats a bingo. They can be built fairly cheaply though. Plans exist online detailing how to find all your measurements and such. Slapper bars still work fairly well though and are simpler and easier.

Appleseed
Appleseed MegaDork
4/22/18 12:22 a.m.

Cal-Tracs are the drones you're looking for. 

GTXVette
GTXVette SuperDork
4/22/18 7:50 a.m.

  If You are going to Make something and do not need a Back seat, A top link set up like a 3 link is simple and can be set to change for C/g  you just use the leaf front eye mounts as the Forward Lower link  attatchment  point. and the Leaf is the lower link .

jimbbski
jimbbski Dork
4/22/18 8:41 a.m.

An alternative is to stiffen the front half of the leaf spring since that's where wheel hop starts. The spring flexes under load (acceleration or braking) and then snaps back to shape.  Keep this from happening and you will be better off. Adding a "half leaf" to the top of the leaf springs works.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
4/22/18 10:21 a.m.
GTXVette said:

  If You are going to Make something and do not need a Back seat, A top link set up like a 3 link is simple and can be set to change for C/g  you just use the leaf front eye mounts as the Forward Lower link  attatchment  point. and the Leaf is the lower link .

Too much.  Fine idea, not for this application.

Ranger50
Ranger50 UltimaDork
4/22/18 11:41 a.m.
Streetwiseguy said:

 Is there a better, modern answer, and is it spelled Cal Tracs?

  

Only if you’re using mono leafs and if you spell caltracs as assassin bars.

iceracer
iceracer UltimaDork
4/22/18 12:50 p.m.

In reply to jimbbski :

Chrysler (Dodge/Plymouth) did this .  They shortened the front to rear letting the rear do the springing and the front as a traction bar.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
4/22/18 1:42 p.m.

Spring clamps, half leaf on top of the main leaf, and sliders instead of shackles is very effective as well. And turns/rides better than caltracs in my experience. 

barefootskater
barefootskater Reader
4/22/18 2:17 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

+1 to sliders. Though my s10 still wraps the axle with reckless abandon. I guess the limited slip and 255 section 300tw tires don't help though.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
4/22/18 2:35 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

So in effect, bind up the front of the spring so it can't slide or warp under power.  Even with multi leaf springs, add another half leaf on top?

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
4/22/18 2:35 p.m.

In reply to barefootskater :

Sliders?  

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
4/22/18 2:44 p.m.

Yes. The half leaf on top, when clemped to the pack, fully suppots the main leaf not allowing it to turn s-shaped under throttle or brake. Clamping the rest of the leaves effectively adds rate and further reduces wheel hop. Hiwever, in most cases the half leaf will do 90% of what youre looking for. 

As far as sliders: they replace the rear shackle, allowing free and consistent movement of the main leaf under compression and rebound. It feels (by itself) as if you softened the rear springs. Smoots ride quality. It also reduces lateral movement if the pack, and allows the springs to twist a little less for less rear roll steer.

 

All of these tricks in unisone should come close to a 3 link with panhard in terms of ride/handling/wheelhop.

noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
4/23/18 8:09 p.m.
jimbbski said:

An alternative is to stiffen the front half of the leaf spring since that's where wheel hop starts. The spring flexes under load (acceleration or braking) and then snaps back to shape.  Keep this from happening and you will be better off. Adding a "half leaf" to the top of the leaf springs works.

Been pondering this.  Wheels turn in the forward direction, this would cause the nose of the pinion to attempt to rotate up towards the floor.  So wouldn't you want the 1/2 leaf on the bottom of the spring stack?  Or doesn't it make a difference?  (Sorry to jump in on the thread.)

barefootskater
barefootskater Reader
4/23/18 9:46 p.m.

In reply to Streetwiseguy :

Leaf spring sliders. They replace rear shackles and look like this:

Basically what Dusterbd13 said. The other benefit is eliminating any lateral movement allowed by flimsy shackles and rubber bushings.

Ransom
Ransom GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
4/23/18 11:41 p.m.

I wonder what the wacky leaf spring math is on what sliders do to rate...

The more a leaf flattens, the more a shackle rotates; given enough travel it could go flat opposite the front spring mount and not let the leaf expand/flatten further. At the same time, the flatter it goes up to that point, the more the vertical load has the shackle trying to stretch the leaf...

Leaf springs are just weird from a car suspension standpoint. I know, I know, they've been made to work really well on a lot of cars, but I still think they're weird.

It's one of those topics that appears to have people of many and varied misunderstandings arguing vigorously across the Internet.

Ranger50
Ranger50 UltimaDork
4/24/18 6:40 a.m.

In reply to Ransom :

I really don't think much changes with sliders, it just changes the friction within the system. You still measure rate the same as a pressure/weight for a given amount of deflection. If it does anything, it's going to make the spring "feel" softer, as you have eliminated a bunch of built in bind in the OEM effort to have reduced NVH/increased ride quality.

iceracer
iceracer UltimaDork
4/24/18 10:59 a.m.

Another thing is a pinion bump stop.   It was used on a lot to limit  axle twist.

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