Most importantly, how I can chop one off and shorten my factory throttle cable by pinching or screwing a new one in place.
I don’t own a torch, I don’t want to “solder” a new one in place. And that’s my problem, every stinking video or write up out there comes from the motor/bicycle world and it depicts “soldering” (using a torch to melt some metal into the barrel.)
Is something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-03337?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dorman&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6vkw5i12QIVSpV-Ch2lSQZ_EAQYBiABEgIOe_D_BwE
feasible and safe?
Propane torch is $15. Just FYI.
That will be plenty safe. The failure mode is no throttle actuation in a pull cable, or a partial actuation, if it slips.
You should make sure when you get it all set up that the pedal stop is what actually stop the the throttle movement and not the stops on the throttle body/carb, but you do want that really close. Also make sure the cable is not really in tension at idle, let the idle stop on the throttle body do that work.
I drilled mine for a small set screw, one on each side of the stop. Set them in place with loctite. Done and it hasn't slipped.
You can also very easily solder them in place with a torch as mentioned, they are often fairly soft material and mostly lead.
I can crimp a Nicopress stop onto a wire rope or cable; it'll be about 1/2 the maximum breaking strength of the cable. If it can be looped around I can use a Nicopress splice that reaches the full strength of the cable.
Don't be a wuss. I did three cables on a bike. Tin/lead traditional solder is easiest to work and can be found in the stained glass window area of your local craft store. Do eeiiiit.
Appleseed said:
Don't be a wuss. I did three cables on a bike. Tin/lead traditional solder is easiest to work and can be found in the stained glass window area of your local craft store. Do eeiiiit.
Careful, people who need something to help them are weak. Or so I've heard 
Stefan said:
Appleseed said:
Don't be a wuss. I did three cables on a bike. Tin/lead traditional solder is easiest to work and can be found in the stained glass window area of your local craft store. Do eeiiiit.
Careful, people who need something to help them are weak. Or so I've heard
Your staunch opposition to my opinions only breathes on the coals of my convictions.
I'd rather solder but those bug nuts do work.
I've had the bug nuts (great term) slip too many times. I suppose it depends on the diameter of the cable and the stiffness of the return spring.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Return spring is pretty tight. Cable diameter is unknown. It seems like any Japanese car I’ve ever owned.
My point was don't be afraid of the solder. It's relatively easy and permanent. I've had the set-screw one slip on me, too. If I can do it, anyone can. I'm an idiot.
