Learn me 2nd Gen Turbo RX-7

SWMBO likes the Miata too much for me to do too much more with it in regards to racing, so I'm looking for a vehicle to hold me over until I can build my Locost - a build that so far includes me buying an engine, fuel cell and getting the garage rewired for 220. We're talking a couple years.

I'd like to get something that could serve as a donor vehicle for the Locost should I meet a tree during a hillclimb, which has me looking at Miatas and RX-7's.

I looked at an '84 GS on Sunday (SWMBO likes it), but I'm not terribly interested in the 12A and swapping in a 13B would be counter productive to this vehicle being a hold-over. I want to add a cage, suspension and tires and run it until I break something - then upgrade it. Finding a GSL-SE seems to be tricky, so I'm looking at second gen models under $3k.

I found this: http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/3045300862.html

I know Miatas pretty well and I've been under enough cars to know when one looks bad, but rotary engines, beyond the obvious stuff, are something of black magic to me. What can I check for when I go look at these things to know I'm not buying a fancy three-sided paperweight?

For starters, make sure it starts well hot or cold. Low compression usually means trouble starting when it's hot.

Also, check if it has the "shakes" when it's running. One with even compression should not exhibit a lot of sideways movement at idle.

Great cars once you scrape the turbo off of the engine and the body off of the subframe, and stick them under an FB.

Really, the Turbo II makes an awesome nonturbo engine.

Check compression, make sure it doesn't overheat, make sure it is oiled properly (either the oil metering pump needs to be in place or the owner must add premix when fueling EVERY time he fuels it). The wiper switch and backup lights/horn circuit boards often have bad contacts that will need to be resoldered (this is the most likely explanation for any weirdness like the brake lights not working or the wipers having only one speed).

Here's a couple of more detailed buyer's guides:

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm

BTW, if you are new to rotaries, I would highly suggest an N/A FB or N/A FC. The above still applies, but N/A rotaries are easier to care and feed for. In fact, I have a N/A FC for sale...

In reply to RexSeven: Tell me more of this FC.

Don't discount the 12A. They are super durable, and in my humble opinion just as fun. I have both a 13B in my truck, and a 12A in my RX-7, and I am not unhappy with either.

PM sent.

Oh snap I didn't realize you were a local rex. We board our horse in Dracut.

I heart rotaries, love 12A's but unfortunately need to point out that Mazda has not made new rotors, rotor housings or irons for ages. That means the supply of good used stuff is going to dry up (dammit). So my suggestion (and it seems you are already leaning this way) is an FC with a 13B. There's still a metric E36 M3 ton of stuff around for them, like new rotors and housings. Someone has even built an all aluminum version (feather light). Not to mention you get fuel infection.

Buy an FC swap, buy a grannies speed shop ls-1 kit and swap in a 5.3 out of the junk yard with a cam and ls-6 intake you'll make 350hp or better and be a hell of a lot better off in the long run

I've wanted an FC since high school. Love the shape.

I also have the desire for a high revving, rotary at some point.

I suspect clean, maintained FC Turbo's are hard to find? Command a decent premium?

In reply to Caleb:

That would counter productive since this vehicle will be a holdover.

z31maniac wrote: I've wanted an FC since high school. Love the shape. I also have the desire for a high revving, rotary at some point. I suspect clean, maintained FC Turbo's are hard to find? Command a decent premium?

My understanding of it is that finding a well maintained model is a challenge.

Lots of 7s for sale at www.rx7club.com in the classifieds section. Very active forum with a lot of cars available. If nothing else, good for market research.

Our first Challenge car was an FC Turbo II. Granted it was gutted and had a FMIC, but, basically no engine tuning and no trick suspension, the car placed 8th on raw time in the auto-x. It was a fun car to fling around.

How is the signal to noise ratio on that forum?

DaveEstey wrote: How is the signal to noise ratio on that forum?

Not great, from what little time I've spent there. That said, there are some rotary gurus there for sure. Regardless, lots of cars for sale!

Once Icemark passed on the 2nd gen knowledge on rx7club dropped dramatically. He was The Man on FC's.

Curmudgeon wrote: Once Icemark passed on the 2nd gen knowledge on rx7club dropped dramatically. He was The Man on FC's.

THIS. Icemark was a human encyclopedia on 2nd. gens.

On the bright side, Synaptic 3 Peformance in Candia, NH specializes in rotary engine tuning and is not that far away from either of us. Once I get my turbo-swapped FC back on the road I plan to make use of their expertise, esp. if/when I upgrade to Megasquirt 3 or Haltech. I think Dent Sport Garage in Norwood also has some rotary experience.

dyintorace wrote: Lots of 7s for sale at www.rx7club.com in the classifieds section. Very active forum with a lot of cars available. If nothing else, good for market research. Our first Challenge car was an FC Turbo II. Granted it was gutted and had a FMIC, but, basically no engine tuning and no trick suspension, the car placed 8th on raw time in the auto-x. It was a fun car to fling around.

The FC chassis will win the challenge again someday soon. It is just too good at all parts of the challenge with so little investment.

About 10 years ago I bought my last TII out of a field with over 150,000 miles on it. While not ideal, I proceeded to put a hybrid turbo, GSL-SE injectors, FCD, full exhaust, e-fan, etc. on it. A switch on the fuel pump was a lifesaver since it had pretty poor compression. The thing ran (fast!) for years like that.

TIIs are great cars and a lot of fun.

One of the great things about them is that they're so easy to get power out of. Stock power is 182hp, but you can easily produce more with minor exhaust and intake modifications. A mid-200s HP 2800lbs car with torque is pretty quick (with a FCD, fuel pump rewire, wastegate enlarged, etc). Close to 300hp is possible with the stock turbo (injectors). They come with great brakes (4-piston aluminum calipers), good suspension, beefy suspension and subframes etc. which make it a tough car. The oil cooler is massive, the rad is adequatish for casual racing, the transmission and differential are nearly indestructible. Aluminum lower control arms, wheel hubs, hood. There is a very good support community for information.

What can go wrong. We're talking about an old performance car, so obviously you don't expect it to compare to a Yaris. A few off the top of my head: Check the metering oil pump and lines, check the spark plugs to ensure they're the right color and the engine is running well. Be ware of cars that were modified improperly (eg. intake/exhuast without the above mentioned changes). There are a LOT of hacked together cars out there. Is the AFM in correct orientation? Secondary injectors kick in ~3700-3800RPM. Make sure this is a smooth transition. Make sure it starts well when hot.