https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/5943283609.html
I've decided to open my mind to more than aircooleds for the challenge. Afterall, for me it's more about the event than the car at the moment. This led me to finding this gem. Is there anything big I need to know about these?
I had one, and I miss it. The GTS has trailing arm rear suspension, the other versions have a live axle. The 22re is a truck engine and feels like it, but is reliable. The trunk area rusts out really fast.
To be reliable and fun for the challenge, all you need to do is make sure it's got oil and coolant in it and that they're not mixing with eachother. To be competitive, it would need an engine swap.
If you have specific questions ask away, I think Trackmouse has one too. Mine was a GTS, maybe I'll have one again some day.
Same body as Supra (though Supra did not offer a coupe.)
Supra got 6cyl.
Celica only got 4cyl. Same stout, reliable 4cyl as in the Toyota pickup truck at the time.
This gen is the last of the rwd Celica. Sporty but not fast.
In reply to JohnRW1621:
Not quite the same, the Celica wheelbase is a bit shorter. The handling difference is noticeable.
At this point in time having fun and making it to the challenge are my top priorities. 
are oem replacement parts cheap and plentiful? The car in question has 308k miles so I'm sure some stuff might need replacing, and I can't throw the entire budget away on bushings and ball joints...
In reply to NoPermitNeeded:
When I bought mine I immediately did all of the bushings, ball joints, and shocks. I think it was $300 on Rock Auto? They're super easy to work on too.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: In reply to NoPermitNeeded: When I bought mine I immediately did all of the bushings, ball joints, and shocks. I think it was $300 on Rock Auto? They're super easy to work on too.
If I could score the car for less than $1500 that leaves some money in the budget for fun
Also when I would want to get more ponies under the hood is it worth it to modify the 22re?
I'm in Nashville dude if you need some eyes on it. Just let me know.
The motor (22R) is good for 300 HP with boost. More than 300 and you need to start modifying stuff. Up to that point, just add boost. So they say, from a couple decades of my reading what others have done with them. My 22RE is megasquirted and has a torquer cam.
t25torx wrote: I'm in Nashville dude if you need some eyes on it. Just let me know.
My grandad lives in nasvegas so he'll probably check it out for me; but if he can't for whatever reason I'll for sure hit you up.
Dr. Hess wrote: The motor (22R) is good for 300 HP with boost. More than 300 and you need to start modifying stuff. Up to that point, just add boost. So they say, from a couple decades of my reading what others have done with them. My 22RE is megasquirted and has a torquer cam.
How difficult is megasquirt to work with? because boost til' explosion sounds enticing
It's pretty straight forward. I've MS'ed 3 vehicles: The RN Truck, a 20v Rolla and a Harley Sportster. On deck is a 1nzfe in a Europa with boost. That one will get a wide band. I think that given the consequences of "oops" when there is boost involved, wide band is a must for at least the tuning stage. If you're under a strict budget of say, $2017 or so, then put the wide band on, tune it, take it off and run it with the narrow band. No budget constraints then, right?
Dr. Hess wrote: It's pretty straight forward. I've MS'ed 3 vehicles: The RN Truck, a 20v Rolla and a Harley Sportster. On deck is a 1nzfe in a Europa with boost. That one will get a wide band. I think that given the consequences of "oops" when there is boost involved, wide band is a must for at least the tuning stage. If you're under a strict budget of say, $2017 or so, then put the wide band on, tune it, take it off and run it with the narrow band. No budget constraints then, right?
would there be any need for the stock ECU
No, not at all. Especially on a 1984 vehicle. Keep the harness, of course, especially for all the connectors. You might even be able to buy a plug-n-play Megasquirt for it, but that will cost more than a build it yourself. I did the Truck with the DIYAutoTune labeled harness. Real easy. Pick up a wire, read what's printed on it, run it to that sensor, etc., pick up the next wire.
In reply to Dr. Hess:
That would definitely be something to consider, 300hp sounds pretty stout to me; but that's coming off a 50hp beetle
I used to be on a mailing list (before the days of teh WWW) called Toyota Mods. 300 HP is about the upper limit of stock internals/bottom end on a 22R motor. There were some guys running 350, but to get it to hold together, they needed to go inside. I forget what, probably pistons and rods. But 300, no problem. Some of them on a blow through setup, but doing it with EFI would be the way to go. One guy that was running 350 with a modded bottom end in an old Celica like that moved to the PRC (People's Republic of California) and that vehicle was massively illegal there. He swapped in a stock 1UZFE with stock ECU, cats, and I think the transmission. Then he was "legal" again.
What about the rear-end and transmission; if I go MS+turbo; what will the upper limits of the rest of the drivetrain be? I heard something somewhere, maybe on here, about someone having a ford 8.8 stuffed in theirs?
The (manual) transmission would be no problem at 300 HP. Probably a W55, I think. They use them behind V8 swaps with adapter plates. I'm not sure on the rear end. I don't recall people having to swap them out at that power level. Even when people swap in 1uzfe's in trucks, which are about 300 HP, they use the original truck rear end, from what I've read. And I think that Celi has the same rear end as a RN Truck, or very similar.
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