One of my friends has one sitting in their driveway and has offered it to me for $2500. It doesn't run, but is in awesome condition. I think that a new battery and some starting fluid would be enough to bring her to life. The body is great and the interior is practically immaculate. What should I look out for with these cars?
Rust. Even if it isn't readily apparent, it may still be there.
Just curious why you think it would be that easy. If it's in great shape and a runner it would be worth a fair bit more and if $50 invested would make it worth several thousand more why wouldn't the existing owner want to do that? Just sayin.
Title?
If you have stumbled on a solid car for that price, it is one hell of a deal. The early 3 main bearing engine cars have the most appeal to the collectors. You can be sure it still has a three bearing engine by looking for the mechanical tach drive on the LH side of the engine under the rear carb.
The early cars are a bit harder to maintain due to lack of some parts, especially trim bits. Gearboxes are also weaker and harder to rebuild than the later 5 bearing cars.
Does it still have the alloy bonnet? Does it still have the 3 synchro gearbox? Does it have overdrive?
If you want an opinion on the body, start taking pictures of the underside of the sills and anything else under there and I can tell you pretty quick what I think about the car. I have a fair bit of experience working on MGB tubs. Rear spring hangers are worth inspecting.
Mechanicals are dead easy on MGBs. Be aware that the best ones on the planet sell for not more than 15k.
As a certified British Leyland mechanic back in the 60s-70s I agree with NOHOME. Check the battery boxes behind the seat under the cover. (2 6 volt batteries and this area always rusted) Depending on how long it has been sitting, this may be more work and money than a battery and starting fluid. Remove the gas cap and take a sniff at the filler. The good news? You will find out what it was like to service and maintain a British car of this era and learn to rebuild/repair rather than replace parts. Good Luck
In reply to bentwrench:
I don't need a title, in Alabama if the car is built before a certain date all you need is a bill of sale. I think the current year is '74.
In reply to oldtin:
It's my friend's parent's car, and I'm positive that they came to inherit it from a deceased family member. They aren't very mechanically minded people either way.
In reply to NOHOME:
I'll go over there soon and snap some pictures. I wouldn't be in it for the resale though, I would want to drive the car as much as I can. it won't be too long before old, raw cars like that are either nonexistent or wayyyyy too expensive for a high-schooler to have.
NoPermitNeeded wrote: In reply to NOHOME: I'll go over there soon and snap some pictures. I wouldn't be in it for the resale though, I would want to drive the car as much as I can. it won't be too long before old, raw cars like that are either nonexistent or wayyyyy too expensive for a high-schooler to have.
My first car was an MG midget that was more rust than car. 42 years later and I have never been without an MG in the stable. My latest project:
I am on my second can of buffing compound with this one.
NOHOME wrote:NoPermitNeeded wrote: In reply to NOHOME: I'll go over there soon and snap some pictures. I wouldn't be in it for the resale though, I would want to drive the car as much as I can. it won't be too long before old, raw cars like that are either nonexistent or wayyyyy too expensive for a high-schooler to have.My first car was an MG midget that was more rust than car. 42 years later and I have never been without an MG in the stable. My latest project:
It'll shine right up
in all seriousness though, that looks like a riot once you've worked your magic. Nothing is more fun to me than a tiny car.
If it is a truly rust free shell, at $2,500 you should run (not walk) to go buy it. I've learned the hard way that there isn't anything more frustrating than an MGB with hidden rust. At some point, you look up, you are in too deep, and realize that it's just not worth the effort to repair. Mechanically, they are about as simple as you can get.
I have hope! I'm picturing you finding amazingly small amounts of rust (making 2,500 is a complete steal!)
Good Luck!
Do Not worry about the stopck S.U. fuel pump.. Those things will last for decades if properly maintained contrary to popular myth.. Here is how. Remove the thumb screw on top of the plastic cover. Take a really fine grit (1000 grit is what I use) and pull it between the set of points. Now put a drop of oil on the pivot point of the spring on each side. Repeat every other oil change.. If done with regularity you will avoid the need to bang on it with a stick (sign of ignorance) in the pouring rain or whenever you are dressed in nice clothes.
In reply to NoPermitNeeded:
PM sent
frenchyd wrote: Do Not worry about the stopck S.U. fuel pump.. Those things will last for decades if properly maintained contrary to popular myth..
And while Frenchyd is absolutely correct, herein lies the rub of owning an MGB (or any classic for that matter)...repeat the time interval and time required do do this particular maintenance item for damn near every single component on the car. "They will last for a long time IF maintained" is an MGB mantra.
Went through the operators manual that came with my GT and came to the conclusion that it would be cheaper to lease a new car than to pay a mechanic today's rate to do the scheduled maintenance on an MGB; it does become a part time job.
As far as learning the basics of car maintenance and repair, the MGB cant be beat. It will expose you to just about every system on the car at some point. People never get tired of driving MGBs, they just get tired of the maintenance. Then they start to skimp on the maintenance until something significant sidelines the car. At that point, the cost of catching up with the deferred maintenance and fixing what stopped the car exceeds the value of the car, and it gets parked until you come along with your dreams. And the cycle repeats.
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