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Coldsnap
Coldsnap Reader
6/27/15 3:44 p.m.

Threw in El Camino in there because sometimes you can't find a 80s malibu coup. I'm looking to buy a G-body something. Got about $4,000 and want something to just ride around and make a bunch of noise in and spin some tires, no racing or events. I was looking at monte carlos but I'm not sure if I like that long front in. I sort of prefer the Malibu look, so looking at el camino too. Seems like early 80s malibus are hard to come buy, nothign comes up on ebay when doing a search. So maybe I want to avoid those, not interested in paying Malibu tax.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog SuperDork
6/27/15 4:36 p.m.

They are at least 28 year old cars now, so they aren't as plentiful as they used to be. If you would settle for an El Camino, why not a box S-10? Same front end, easy to swap in a V8, and much easier to find. Unless you are a die hard Chevy guy widen your search to include Regals, Cutlasses, and Grand Prix/Bonneville/LeMans. Careful with the Pontiacs-those names shifted a lot and one year off gets you a completely different car. Many G-bodies (and A-bodies, as they were called until 1981)had a Chevy small block as the V8 regardless of badging.

Good luck.

patgizz
patgizz GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
6/27/15 5:09 p.m.

one does not settle for an el camino. they are the height of autotruck badassitude.

icaneat50eggs
icaneat50eggs Dork
6/27/15 5:53 p.m.

What has to be done to make these things handle decently?

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 6:02 p.m.

Pick the style you want then get it. They all are really the same underneath with mild (inconsequential) differences for Wagon/Sedan, etc. The Elky came on a modified wagon frame, but they are all intensely similar.

They all also have all the bolt holes drilled for any engine/tranny combo you want. The only GM engine for which it isn't pre-drilled is the Caddy but the aftermarket has that covered for $50. Frames are drilled so that the tranny crossmember will fit any GM transmission you can imagine.

Add in GM's parts-bin philosophy and you are just a few junkyard searches away from an AWD, caddy 500, NV3500 monster for salvage prices. I've owned four G-bodies; a Monte, two Elkys, and a Cutlass. I loved them all.

Aftermarket is swimming with parts. Brake upgrades are ridiculously easy with off-the-shelf F-body parts. Junkyard wheels seem easy with the wide array of 5x4.75" bolt patterns out there, but its only easy up to about 15 or 16" diameter. Early F-bodies can get you easy 15" choices. S-trucks get you up to 16" with the LQ9 option. But the only real options for 17" didn't happen until the 93-ish F-body and C4 vettes and they were higher offset.

If you go higher than about 300 hp, prepare to upgrade the 7.5" rear. The ONLY bolt in upgrade is an 8.5" from a 442 or Grand National and they are stoopid expensive. Better bet is to get a B-body 8.5 and narrow it. Another option is to modify an Explorer 8.8" but they are a few inches narrower and may require some really deep dish wheels to get it right.

icaneat50eggs
icaneat50eggs Dork
6/27/15 6:14 p.m.

What has to be done to make these things handle decently?

Coldsnap
Coldsnap Reader
6/27/15 6:22 p.m.

Gotcha. So any of them can be built out pretty easily it seems.

What are some first HP gainer changes to make to a G body?

icaneat50eggs
icaneat50eggs Dork
6/27/15 6:24 p.m.

Get rid of the 305

Coldsnap
Coldsnap Reader
6/27/15 6:31 p.m.

Yea. I hope to get one with a 350 in it or something. Definitely don't wont a almost 30 year old 205.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog SuperDork
6/27/15 6:44 p.m.
Coldsnap wrote: Yea. I hope to get one with a 350 in it or something. Definitely don't wont a almost 30 year old 205.

If you find one with a 305 you're doing pretty good. Lots of them had horrible V6s.

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 6:50 p.m.
icaneat50eggs wrote: What has to be done to make these things handle decently?

A#1 thing... get it down. It helps more with A/G bodies than others because of the short spindle. Getting the upper arm more parallel with the ground will help get a more favorable camber curve. Otherwise, standard stuff does very well; springs, bushings, shocks, bars. The factory control arms are heavy, but pretty stiff.

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 7:11 p.m.
Coldsnap wrote: Gotcha. So any of them can be built out pretty easily it seems. What are some first HP gainer changes to make to a G body?

There is good news and bad news. The good news is that any of the V8s from GM that go in there are good power waiting to happen. The bad news is that they are all wheezers and its not just a cam or intake away from more ponies. The 305 chevy and 307 Olds will be the more common V8s you'll find. Pontiac's last V8 was 1981 and it was the 301. All of them have tiny head ports, low-8s compression, and tiny cams. The good news is that most of them will have a Qjet on it which will work for nearly anything you put under it from a 3.8 V6 up to a Caddy 500. An example; the 307 Olds that you might find is an 8:1 combo with tiny head ports (as in, they fit your thumb and not much else) and a cam that specs out to something like 181/193 duration. 140 hp and it felt like 100 tops. Many of the chevy 305s will be similar and in the 125-150hp range.

But, like I said, you can plop a Vortec 350 longblock under it, bolt on the intake and Qjet and HEI, and you're a breath away from 300 hp after some tuning and a better cam.

My point is, don't try to upgrade what's in there. You'll spend more money on a comprehensive package of pistons, heads, cam, intake, etc than you would just buying a reman 350 or a used Olds 403, or a buick 455, or a...

Especially don't try to upgrade the 305. Chevy made the 305 by shrinking down the bores. You'll be very limited on how much power you can make because of the poor breathing associated with the small valves to fit in that bore. Plus, once you spend your first $300 on a cam or heads, you've already spent more than you would on a used, running 350.

The easy swaps are same for same; olds for olds, buick for buick, etc since you know the starters, alternators, distributors, fuel lines will all be a direct swap, but it is not hard to extend a fuel hose or starter cable. Just something to consider when swapping an engine. Of course you probably also know that BOP bellhousings are all the same, but different from the chevy bellhousing. If going from chevy to BOP or vice versa, you'll need a correct bellhousing.

... which brings me to the good news about transmissions. GM saw the need for multiple applications of the same chassis and made it easy on themselves. Most of the G-bodies got one of three transmissions; a TH350, a THM200, or a 200-4r. The first two are three speeds and the last is an OD 4 speed. Not only do they all interchange (length, output shaft configuration, shifter style, etc), they almost all came cast with both bellhousing patterns. The only main differences are kickdown style (vacuum or switch), and the 200 types will make you slide the tranny crossmember back to the rear hole in the frame. There is also a wee bit of difference in the shifter throw. I replaced the 200 in my Elky with a TH350 and noticed that it required a lot less shifter movement to go through the gears, but there are adjustments that can be made in the bellcrank to compensate.

Now for the really good news... if you happen to find one with a 700r4 (rare, but they're out there) that means a T56 is nearly a bolt-in as well. That was another GM stroke of genius; to make a T56 fit in where a 700r4/4L60e was. There are also some G-bodies that came with manuals (again, rare) but that means that parts are out there to put a T10 in it.

Edit: one more thing on automatics... The THM200 is fine for daily driver behind a 120-hp engine. It likes to explode at 120.337 hp. Not really, but its a very light duty transmission. The TH350 is bulletproof. The 200-4r is actually quite a nice transmission. In stock form they won't take a ton of abuse, but its what GM put behind the GNX and 442 higer-hp engines. They can be built to take a lot of abuse.

Coldsnap
Coldsnap Reader
6/27/15 7:31 p.m.

Gotcha. Awesome. Thanks for the info, lots of stuff to consider.

Wally
Wally GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/27/15 7:38 p.m.

My first car was a Monte SS. For screwing around it was a blast. It has 3.73 gears so it accelerates hard enough to feel quick, can do some nice donuts, and is fairly bullet proof. With some work they can handle very well but for playing with the SS parts are a nice package. If you don't like the rubber bumpers Cutlesses and Regals are easy to find.

Coldsnap
Coldsnap Reader
6/27/15 7:47 p.m.

I sort of want to get something that wont need a ton of work for it to be fun. As I'm a shadetree mechanic with limited tools. So I'm sort of leaning towards the Monte Carlo SS. As you mentioned it's a sport package so comes with better gearing and a few other things. It seems like the Regal/Malibu will immediately need a new engine and back end (I need to re-read their wikis, maybe some of their factory options come equipped).

Wally
Wally GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/27/15 7:53 p.m.

In spite of being beaten the way you'd expect a 17 yr old boy would I had few problems aside from a water pump, a radiator when I left a ratchet in the fan shroud after changing the water pump. blowing the tranny at about 125,000 miles.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic PowerDork
6/27/15 8:13 p.m.

They'll all need a new engine and rear to be "spin some tires" fun. If it came with a TH200 (not to be confused with the TH200-4R four speed), a different trans too. These are some of the easiest to wrench on vehicles ever built though.

Wally
Wally GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/27/15 8:18 p.m.

The 3.73s let it spin cheap tires pretty easy. It felt like a quick car up to about 60.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic PowerDork
6/27/15 8:52 p.m.

In reply to Wally:

The Monte Carlo SS with the 3.73 (and posi too IIRC) rear end excluded. I'll hazard a guess that's the most collectible one though, turbo cars aside, and you probably can't get a decent one for under $4k anymore.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog SuperDork
6/27/15 9:12 p.m.

i KNOW OF AN ss LOCALLY FOR UNDER $2K. dEPENDS ON WHAT YOU CONSIDER "DECENT"

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 9:13 p.m.

The thing you have to understand about G-bodies is that the SS or 442 or any of the "special" option packages mean that they were 10% less wheezy than their vanilla counterparts.

So you have a 140 hp Cutlass instead of a 170 hp 442. You can buy the former for $500 instead of $5000 for the 442. Then you put $500 in it and make it into a fun driver instead of a poser museum piece that performs like a turd. Its the reason I wanted a 67 LeMans instead of a GTO. I could have spent $20,000 on a museum piece, but instead I spent less for something I don't mind modifying and driving.

All of the G-bodies are slow noodles. The "special" ones are just really expensive slow noodles.

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 9:19 p.m.
Coldsnap wrote: I sort of want to get something that wont need a ton of work for it to be fun. As I'm a shadetree mechanic with limited tools. So I'm sort of leaning towards the Monte Carlo SS. As you mentioned it's a sport package so comes with better gearing and a few other things. It seems like the Regal/Malibu will immediately need a new engine and back end (I need to re-read their wikis, maybe some of their factory options come equipped).

Be careful how you spend your money on G-bodies. If you want an SS, get an SS, but I can almost guarantee it that you will spend way more money on an SS than you would an LS and put in 3.73 gears. The actual upgrades that the SS got from the factory are very superficial and mostly cosmetic.

If you want to drive around in an SS because its an SS, then do the SS. If you want to have fun in a car, buy an LS and put 3.73s in it. You'll have more fun and keep more money in your pocket.

curtis73
curtis73 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/27/15 9:27 p.m.

My Cutlass was an 87. It had the 442 appearance package. That means it got the wheels, gold striping, rally gauges, and floor shifter. The only things it was missing from the actual 442 was the 170-hp engine, (who cares) the 8.5" rear axle, (who cares at 170hp) and the 442 badges. (they were ugly anyway) It had 36,000 miles on it, it was pristine, and I paid just over $3k for it. If it had been an actual 442, it would have brought $15k. For the money I had leftover, I could have made it into something that could challenge an LT1 C4 easily.

Wally
Wally GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/27/15 9:28 p.m.

I disagree. A quick look at Craigslist shows a very small price difference between SS and non SS model and the SS will already have the better springs, sway bars and steering box and they tend to be better kept with less rust.

There are plenty of different models out there, most inexpensive, so buy the cleanest version of whichever model you like that has the options you want and enjoy.

slowride
slowride HalfDork
6/27/15 9:45 p.m.

I have nothing to add except this picture.

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