Wally wrote:
I disagree. A quick look at Craigslist shows a very small price difference between SS and non SS model and the SS will already have the better springs, sway bars and steering box and they tend to be better kept with less rust.
There are plenty of different models out there, most inexpensive, so buy the cleanest version of whichever model you like that has the options you want and enjoy.
True, but what I'm saying is that the SS model takes it from "limp noodle" to "al dente noodle." Its still a noodle. Its nothing even remotely considered a performance upgrade by any modern standards. If a person is looking at making a G body perform, they're going to eject all of those parts anyway. I wouldn't pay $20 more for an SS unless I wanted to have the prestige or resale of the SS VIN. As a platform for upgrade, (to me) buying an SS is a complete waste of money.
If anyone's bored, throw some craigslist links to Gbody stuff in my price range. Just so I can see what's out there, outside of North Carolina.
Curtis you bring up some really good points and I definitely agree with you. I'm the type of person who doesn't like to pay extra tax just because something is sought after (My nova in the picture is a four door). Definitely something to consider. I really like your Regal, that's awesome. I need to find someone like you selling their old project car.
This looks clean enough. Would need to talk down to around 3,500k.
http://florencesc.craigslist.org/cto/5049890581.html
Part of me always says dont buy the virgin survivor. But they are SO much easier to flip in 2 years or so when I decide if I want something else. Instead of having to learn what the previous owner did and did not do, then pitch it to a person that it's not a basketcase.
In reply to Coldsnap:
That car is 1. not a virgin survivor and B. way overpriced. It's been repainted-probably twice, the A/C doesn't work, the parking brake doesn't work, and there is bad bodywork on the right side, probably with a water leak. Also at least one of the factory gauges doesn't work.
If you're going to buy a project then buy a project, just don't think that it isn't a project because its shiny.
Junkyard_Dog wrote:
In reply to Coldsnap:
That car is 1. not a virgin survivor and B. way overpriced. It's been repainted-probably twice, the A/C doesn't work, the parking brake doesn't work, and there is bad bodywork on the right side, probably with a water leak. Also at least one of the factory gauges doesn't work.
If you're going to buy a project then buy a project, just don't think that it isn't a project because its shiny.
Gotcha. That explains why it's been on Craigslist for 28 days. You just saved me a trip too. Good call with the parking brake not working. I didn't catch that.
A lot of them get water in the passenger foot wells, check the floors on the passenger side. The heater box will fill with leaves and block the drains causing water inside the car. It's easy to fix but people don't and end up with water in the car.
$3500 supposedly a 350 swap. It would have beem nice to habe pics of the rough interior . replacing the heater core is a 15 min job. https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5060286366.html
I'm sure this regal is a mess but a 455 for $3300 sounds interesting. https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5083958621.html
Yea, having a 350 already in it would be awesome.
Go for it. If you want a cheap, RWD platform that can be set up for drag or autocross, can't fit in a C4, or need extra seats, the G-body is the right car for you.
pres589
UberDork
6/28/15 10:49 a.m.
I looked on the craigslist that I believe is local to you and I found this;
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5095473542.html
All the stock engines, as described above, are parts donors at best if you care about performance.
I would then purchase this;
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5093935510.html
Yeah, it's got a lot of miles, but you get a probably rebuildable 5.7 LT1 with all the accesories you need. F-body brake bits. A 4L60E that is probably also rebuildable or at least good to offset a core charge with a transmission jobber. Maybe something can be done with the rear axle (although it's another 7.5" 10 bolt, but at least it's got discs out back). Etc etc.
That's what I'd be looking for if I wanted one of these things and didn't care if it was an El Camino or not. Personally I'd go for a Camino.
pres589 wrote:
I looked on the craigslist that I believe is local to you and I found this;
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5095473542.html
All the stock engines, as described above, are parts donors at best if you care about performance.
I would then purchase this;
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5093935510.html
Yeah, it's got a lot of miles, but you get a probably rebuildable 5.7 LT1 with all the accesories you need. F-body brake bits. A 4L60E that is probably also rebuildable or at least good to offset a core charge with a transmission jobber. Maybe something can be done with the rear axle (although it's another 7.5" 10 bolt, but at least it's got discs out back). Etc etc.
That's what I'd be looking for if I wanted one of these things and didn't care if it was an El Camino or not. Personally I'd go for a Camino.
I agree with all of this except the Firebird. You can find one with an already dead trans for even less. You're going to need to rebuild the trans soon anyway so you might as well save a bit up front.
pres589
UberDork
6/28/15 11:15 a.m.
In reply to Junkyard_Dog:
I agree; this was what I found in about 3 minutes of craigslist searching that was local to the guy asking for ideas. The Monte I listed could probably be talked down to $1k but I wouldn't think much less than that. A decent condition save for dead trans LT1 F-body should be about the same I think.
With some creativity and deal cutting this should be a good Challenge project assuming mechanical ability is there to pull it off.
Good thinking pres589. Except I'm a shade tree mechanic and limited to two parking spaces, my daily driver takes up one. So can't do any donor cars anymore. But that would be a great package for around three grand.
Go Malibu wagon or go home.
If you get a wagon or 4 door keep in mind the rear windows don't open. That was why my dad went with the Fairmont when we were kids.
slowride wrote:
I have nothing to add except this picture.
Which is a great lesson on why monochrome paint jobs don't always work.
Really though, as Curtis already alluded to, the sky truly is the limit. I will only add that really, if you get an Olds, source yourself a nice Olds 350. Sure, you can go 455, but they weigh more than the 350. Yeah, you can use a Chevy 350, but where's the fun in that? But Nixon, surely it's cheaper than sourcing an Olds 350! Yeah, you're right. But the Olds 350 is cooler. Trust me.
And now the part where I mention that I have owned four A/G bodies: a 71 Cutlass S with a 358 Olds, an 80 Cutlass LS four door with a 260 Olds (rubbish!); an 81 Cutlass Calais with a built 403; and an 87 Cutlass Supreme Brougham four door with the 307. The 80 and the 87 wore a set of the Rallye III wheels pictured on Curtis' 87.
Re Wagon: I already have a land yatch car.
Got any pictures to share Esoteric?
Sadly, I only have one of my `71. The others were owned when I was young and not equipped with a camera.
I had an 80 Malibu cop call used by the local police dept., 305 w/4 barrel, coolers, low lockout, F41 suspension. Made it a stealth car. I'd buy a wagon and upgrade suspension and engine.
Of all the GM engines that will fit in there, I have some faves. I personally prefer the big bore/short stroke V8s like the Buick 455 and Olds 403. I'm truly a huge fan of the Caddy 500. Its massive but it only weighs a few more pounds than an all-iron SBC.
And just to throw it out there: a Duramax fits as well. I'll just leave this 1200-hp demonstration here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPw1iJXAH6I
IIRC a Caddy 472/500 with an aluminum intake weighs less than an all iron SBC.
Mines a typical Malibu. Purchased for $300.00 back in the mid nineties with the 229 V6 auto combo. When I got it I gave it a quick paint job, added a rear swaybar, Rallye wheels, and used it as my DD for several years. This time round it got a better paint job and is being treated to a Turbo hood, 357 SBC, turbo 400, 8.5 Posi rear W 3.73's, and a full Hotchkis suspension with Bilsteins. Once complete it's going back to being the DD.
[URL=http://s240.photobucket.com/user/NOTATA/media/81%20Malibu/81Malibu127.jpg.html][/URL]
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
IIRC a Caddy 472/500 with an aluminum intake weighs less than an all iron SBC.
I forget, but I think the stock iron/iron caddy weighs 40 lbs more than a stock iron/iron SBC. I think until you lighten up a Caddy with headers and an aluminum intake its about the same as an SBC. Either way... 40 lbs is more than eclipsed by the extra 150 cubes.
The really nice thing about a Caddy is the torque. A Powerglide or TH350 is all you need. No need for all the gears to overcome peaky torque curves. Caddy 500 + Powerglide + 2.73 gears = more torque than your tires can handle. They are also one of the more efficient GM engines. I got a consistent 18 mpg highway with a Caddy 500 in my 66 Bonneville and had 300hp/550tq. It was basically a gas-powered diesel.