What's the best way to do this? Have the hubs redrilled?
As long as the material is there, thickness, distance from existing lugs, etc, you can just redrill the hubs/rotors.
Having the original holes welded shut and the hubs redrilled has always been a bit dodgy. I've always swapped hubs, whether with OEM from a different year/model or aftermarket. Then again, its always been a GM product (Camaro/Nova/Regal/Chevelle) with Ford rear axle swap that has created my need to do so.
I'd trust bolt on adapters over welded and redrilled, particularly if hub-centric. Good enough for a 1-ton truck for dually front wheels is good enough for me.
I had 4x110 RX7 axles redrilled for 4x100, it cost me around $100 and have had zero problems. That's my personal preference, but I have seen billet steel adapters I would trust. They are NOT cheap!
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Why would you bother on a car already set up for the extremely popular 5x100?
this.
irish44j wrote:Kenny_McCormic wrote: Why would you bother on a car already set up for the extremely popular 5x100?this.
agreed
In reply to Flyin Mikey J:
They were cheap. Rul cheap. Want to fit them on my Subaru for (pretty much) no reason.
Also spotted a set of these at the scrap yard.
I used adapters to fit cheap BMW wheels on my 924. They work great and I can swap back fairly easily.
I would just do the spacer thing, unless the offset won't allow it. Well-made spacers are just as strong as the hub flange, really (especially if you get steel ones). Plenty of them are used on heavy 4x4s doing crazy off-road things, racecars, etc.
In reply to RoughandReady:
That should work, though wobble nuts might work in that case if the hub diameters match.
RoughandReady wrote: What if I used a 114.3 STI hub? It should have meat.
Different axle spline I believe. You're quickly getting into, "more money than the car is worth" territory. I would see if there's enough meat to re-drill the hubs, there probably isnt. Then I would just sell the wheels for a profit.
Don't forget that redrilling the hubs is only half the job. You need to drill the rotors as well and any replacement rotors down the road, etc.
These wheels aren't looking so cheap and easy anymore, are they?
I'd sell them on for what they are actually worth and buy better, lighter and stronger wheels that actually fit your car.
Watching this with interest. I might....er, someone I know might have.....built a car with 5 lug fronts and four lug rears because that's the way the axle came. It sure would be nice to have a spare tire that had better than a 50/50 chance of being useful in the event of a flat.
JoeyM wrote: Watching this with interest. I might....er, someone I know might have.....built a car with 5 lug fronts and four lug rears because that's the way the axle came. It sure would be nice to have a spare tire that had better than a 50/50 chance of being useful in the event of a flat.
Multi bolt pattern wheel?
JoeyM wrote: Watching this with interest. I might....er, someone I know might have.....built a car with 5 lug fronts and four lug rears because that's the way the axle came. It sure would be nice to have a spare tire that had better than a 50/50 chance of being useful in the event of a flat.
Staying with the same number of lugs is fairly easy to build adapters for. Going between different numbers of lugs is another matter and usually requires fairly substantial adapters.
I'd look at if there was a way to change one of the patterns with different parts or make new front hubs with a matching lug pattern to the rear and off the shelf rotors. If you list the car you used for the front and rear parts, the collective might help you find the parts you'd need to get around using adapters.
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