Learn me E30's

I searched, and didn't see a topic on this. I think you guys did a buyers guide to E30s but I can't seem to find it.

I'm in the market for an affordable and reliable DD. If I could get something funish that would be a nice perk. I cannot, and I repeat, CANNOT buy another dog or I lose all car buying privileges for some time.

I've start looking at E30s (which might be the wrong place to start). I've already discarded a few TMU vehicles and automatics. What should I look for, what's a good price? Help me guru's of BMW voodoo!

BTW here's my current potentials

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/cto/2604785045.html

http://treasure.craigslist.org/ctd/2654837466.html (this one is highly suspicious and looks like junk)

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2644178011.html

I've found a few others that are pegging out the BS meter that I'm trying to follow up on right now.

You really want a rust-free 325i or 'is' with a schrick cam, larger injectors, a suspension upgrade, chip (or MS) and exhaust and 4.10 LSD that has been loved and maintained in a state that it could be safely taken to a racetrack tomorrow.

You should pay about $3.5-4k for it. It will cost you more in the long run if you start with less.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: You really want a rust-free 325i or 'is' with a schrick cam, larger injectors, a suspension upgrade, chip (or MS) and exhaust and 4.10 LSD that has been loved and maintained in a state that it could be safely taken to a racetrack tomorrow. You should pay about $3.5-4k for it. It will cost you more in the long run if you start with less.

Orrr...... you should trade a hilariously quick 90 MX6 GT for it?

Not an iS but looks clean.
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2680601657.html
http://panamacity.craigslist.org/cto/2613793446.html

4 cyl
http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/2652110544.html

For what it's worth, I really like my 85 318i. I honestly have never wished for more power while driving it. I'm not saying I don't want more... but you know how when you drive a stock 90s civic, you are constantly thinking... "man I wish this had more go". I'm pretty sure my car is slower than your average 90s stock civic, but I never have that thought go through my head.

Are they all a little sketchy in the rain? Do they have a bit of an oversteer problem?

I have heard this and a friend has confirmed it, but that is just one data point.

Thanks,

Rob R.

I'm with Taiden.

I have an 85 318i as well that's being built as a rallycross car. That said I bought it for $1000 with current emissions, safety inspection, and VERY little rust. I could commute with it today if I wanted to and feel safe. For that $1K it came with an extra engine, tranny, 6 extra wheels (including nice euroweaves), and a ton of other new stuff.

The M10 is pretty wimpy, but the car is so light and balanced it more than makes up for it. Even with a tired old suspension and lousy tires it's alot of fun to drive.

as stated above, look first for rust (e30s are notorious for interior water leaks if not maintained correctly).

The M10 has a timing chain, the sixes (I think) all have belts. And the newer e30s have alot more electronic stuff that can (and will) break if it isn't already broken.

e30 spare/used parts are easy to find and abundent on the forums and some junkyards. There are guys on the forums CONSTANTLY parting out full cars. New parts are pretty cheap too from various vendors.

basically, you should be able to find a good-condition later e30 for well under $4k I would think....

and find one with LSD ;)

I'd get one with the M20 six. Not that the 318i can't be a good car, but the price difference is so small, and the six is so much more fun. Just make sure you get the 2.5 and not the dog 2.7 low rev emissions engine. Yes, they have timing belts, but the replacement interval is pretty long. Do it the minute you get it and just drive.

Drivetrains are robust and fairly trouble free. Electrical 'features' like power locks, check panel, SI boards and so on cause the most trouble but won't keep it from running. Rust can be a problem with them now. Suspension stuff will wear out and they really like new bushings. I wouldn't spend money on cams, chips or anything with the idea of making it faster. Spend money on springs, shocks and sway bars. High mileage means nothing to these cars; we race them with junkyard motors with 200,000 on them and rarely blow them up. Parts are nowhere as expensive as people would have you believe. There are some good people on the various forums that can answer just about any question you'll have but there are lots of really stupid kids that are buying these that are arrogant know-it-alls that you have to sift through. That's probably one of the worst aspects of owning one. I think they are darn near a perfect car for any condition and wished I'd had one years ago.

Well so far the ones I'm finding are turning up duds. And I can't afford to to travel long distances to find a good one.

Sad.

After a long time, I'm finally in a position to buy a fun car, and am finding that good e30s are like houses in the best neighborhoods - they don't come up for sale often. e36 M3s are another option, but anything under $8K or so has invariably been trashed by a procession of punk kids.

Another thing about the e30 are the parts are some of the cheapest (and best quality) I have ever seen.

When people find out I drive an old BMW, the first thing they say is "man it must be expensive to maintain".

On the contrary, I just bought these items brand new, shipped from two different online vendors, for $250

• exhaust hangers
• new oil drain plug and washers
• oil filter
• oil pressure switch
• upper and lower oil pan gaskets
• M3 front control arm bushings
• air intake boot
• some special idle control valve hose
• new front rotors
• axxis metal masters for the front
• two new Boge front strut cartridges
• A fram air filter

I had an 88 325is for almost a year as my first car, it broke a lot, all suspension, no engine trouble(it ran like a top) other then alternator, but it had a good bit of miles on it, 175k with a broken odo so... it could have had a lot. If I could do it over again(which I will someday ) I would look for a 89+ (plastic bumpers) just purely for looks, and make sure I got an is model. The sport seats and limited slip are nice. It was a seriously fun car to drive, so flickable and more umph then a miata.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: You really want a rust-free 325i or 'is' with a schrick cam, larger injectors, a suspension upgrade, chip (or MS) and exhaust and 4.10 LSD that has been loved and maintained in a state that it could be safely taken to a racetrack tomorrow. You should pay about $3.5-4k for it. It will cost you more in the long run if you start with less.

Unfortunately, that car isn't really attainable at that price anymore. I've seen hugely varying interpretations of "rust free", a truly striaght rust-free car with those upgrades already done is becoming a $6k car.

That's why I finally picked up a Miata.

wvumtnbkr wrote: Are they all a little sketchy in the rain? Do they have a bit of an oversteer problem?

I've never heard that one before, and I have two e30s in the garage.

shameless plug for my build thread, where you can see that I'm finding alot of parts for dirt-cheap.

and I agree with alot of what's said above. I can't believe I'm 35 years old and I have never owned (nor even driven!) an e30 before, because it's really the most intuitive-to-drive car I've ever been in. It's slow and beat, but everything "just feels right" about it. Can't wait until it's actually fixed up!

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/mein-e30-mein-sammlungkreuz-baugewinde-my-318i-rallycross-build-thread/40440/page1/

E30s are "Sketchy" in the rain to people who have never driven a rear drive car in the rain.

I have driven my 318ti in the snow... nothing sketchy about it if you know how to do it. You can't just mash the throttle.

z31maniac wrote:

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: You really want a rust-free 325i or 'is' with a schrick cam, larger injectors, a suspension upgrade, chip (or MS) and exhaust and 4.10 LSD that has been loved and maintained in a state that it could be safely taken to a racetrack tomorrow. You should pay about $3.5-4k for it. It will cost you more in the long run if you start with less.

Unfortunately, that car isn't really attainable at that price anymore. I've seen hugely varying interpretations of "rust free", a truly striaght rust-free car with those upgrades already done is becoming a $6k car. That's why I finally picked up a Miata.

That's what I discovered when I was casually looking a couple of years ago... and ended up buying a very nice '88 325is from a local GRM forum member. It's clean. It's black. It was well cared for and came with a folder full of records. It's a nice car.

Sadly, it's not really the car I thought it would be or needed, so it sits a lot. And since buying a '72 GT6 this past spring, it sits even more. And given the choice between the BMW or my TDi getting garage space this winter and the VW wins.

So it will hopefully be for sale in a few weeks. Unfortunately, I'm in PA and I get the impression you're in FL... and my asking price will be a bit more than most of the cars posted.

I paid $900 for mine and have put maybe $500 into it so far. I'm not really complaining yet. My example also has very little rust. It also gave me 165-165-165-165 on a cold compression test. (Did the test cold because I was having a no start problem, which ended up being user error on my part)

I can't find one worth a damn in my area for non-rape prices to save my life.

mad_machine wrote: You can't just mash the throttle unless you have an M10 car, since it ain't going anywhere fast.

fixed for accuracy

Ian F wrote:

z31maniac wrote:

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: You really want a rust-free 325i or 'is' with a schrick cam, larger injectors, a suspension upgrade, chip (or MS) and exhaust and 4.10 LSD that has been loved and maintained in a state that it could be safely taken to a racetrack tomorrow. You should pay about $3.5-4k for it. It will cost you more in the long run if you start with less.

Unfortunately, that car isn't really attainable at that price anymore. I've seen hugely varying interpretations of "rust free", a truly striaght rust-free car with those upgrades already done is becoming a $6k car. That's why I finally picked up a Miata.

That's what I discovered when I was casually looking a couple of years ago... and ended up buying a very nice '88 325is from a local GRM forum member. It's clean. It's black. It was well cared for and came with a folder full of records. It's a nice car. Sadly, it's not really the car I thought it would be or needed, so it sits a lot. And since buying a '72 GT6 this past spring, it sits even more. And given the choice between the BMW or my TDi getting garage space this winter and the VW wins. So it will hopefully be for sale in a few weeks. Unfortunately, I'm in PA and I get the impression you're in FL... and my asking price will be a bit more than most of the cars posted.

damn, and I thought we could start a little (very little) special club for people who have an e30 AND a GT6....

lol.

look around on RevLimited forums. There are plenty for sale on there, some for reasonable prices.

It's pretty funny. On a wet road, in a slow corner (like pulling out of an intersection) the m10 will light up the tire in the back.

Notice "the tire" is singular and not plural.

Taiden wrote: It's pretty funny. On a wet road, in a slow corner (like pulling out of an intersection) the m10 will light up the tire in the back. Notice "the tire" is singular and not plural.

mine has a 3.91 LSD

car has zero mods, and I know the 318i wasn't available with a 3.91 in the smaller case.....but it's there nonetheless. Possibly off of a canadian-market car!