Learn Me: Everything Used Trailers (In 2 Hours)

Going to go check out some used trailers in a couple hours. What do I need to know? They're all enclosed 8x18'. All bumper-pull. 2 are v-nose. Prices are $2800-3000. I'm looking to move a car and a bunch of my garage crap ~600 miles.

What do I look for in axles? Other than obvious leaks/damage, what else is important?

I've towed a bunch before but always someone else's truck/trailer.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks!

It's all probably similar to checking out an old car.

• Rust (probably not an issue in Georgia)
• Damage to the outside or inside
• Look for water damage on the interior showing signs of leakage
• Make sure all the lights/brakes/etc. work
• Look for the rating sticker near the nose telling how much it weighs and is supposed to safely handle
• Dual axles are preferred to singles for towing large amounts (they're probably all dual, but just in case)
• From the rear of the trailer, look at the camber of the wheels. If there is any negative camber, the trailer has probably been overloaded during use.
• Tires. Are they mismatched (might indicate poor upkeep). Tread good? No splits or cracks
• Check that the wheels spin freely. If you get a chance to tow it, check for the hubs to be warm afterwards
• Do a cursory check of the wiring. Does it look factory or has it been spliced and cut and hacked over multiple owners?

Honestly, it's a big box on wheels. I don't know that there's anything specific to a trailer that would be different from any big purchase. I'd go with V-Nose if the price and size are the same. It's doubtful whether or not it helps fuel mileage, but does and an extra section of enclosed space to store stuff.

-Rob

Cool, thanks!

Rob nailed pretty much everything. For the most part trailers are pretty simple.

Electrical is important, so take the time to examine thoroughly.

Also, for tires check the load range. Good tires with a high load rating are prefeable. With used trailers owners someti.es just throw on what fits rather than the proper choice for application.

Also check the tires for age. Trailers are often used infrequently and then sit for long periods of time, and then the tires can break down and fail.

stuart in mn wrote: Also check the tires for age. Trailers are often used infrequently and then sit for long periods of time, and then the tires can break down and fail.

Ditto. Older than 6 years (pre-2009 now) I start paying close attention to the condition of the tire. Older than 10 years (pre-2005 now) I replace the tires regardless of condition.

stuart in mn wrote: Also check the tires for age. Trailers are often used infrequently and then sit for long periods of time, and then the tires can break down and fail.

Also, check the wear. If you saw my trailer, you'd note the wear on the inside shoulder of the tires- that was a result on worn wheel bearings.

Ok, so I went to take a look. It was listed by a smaller construction company that's selling off their older trailers (I didn't press the guy, but maybe they're closing the business?) Anyway, most of them have damage to the roofs, which I'm not at all interested in messing with. They're also generally taller (9 ft?) and I don't want that because I suspect it will affect the fuel economy, and I can't imagine needing the extra height.

They did have one trailer that wasn't so tall and didn't have any roof damage (closest in this picture):

It's a 2012 or 2013 model year. It has 2 5200 lb axles, 8'x18', roof isn't leaking, 4 new tires, and they will throw in a basically-new spare. 10,000 lb gross weight rating.

Downsides:
- barn doors in the back so I'd need to make ramps (not a huge issue)
- doesn't have any serious tie-down hardware either, so I'll need to install some D-rings
- needs some work on the break-away system; didn't have the pull-out key for the break away and the brakes weren't working - some of the running lights were out

Guy was asking $2800. Think I could get it for $2500.

What do you guys think - worth it?

Relocation movers won't touch the Wrexus, eh?

Sounds like they will. But I think the '77 celica is out of the question. I'm also looking to move up my pressure washer, and a bunch of other garage stuff that they don't want to deal with, and it would be nice to have something enclosed.

In reply to maschinenbau:

BTW, I'll probably be in Columbus this weekend if you want to meet up. I'll shoot you an email when I have my plans all set.

Were are you thinking of moving to? Marnie and I looking around Franklin.

Brakes not working can be a big headache... The rest doesn't sound too bad to deal with.

In reply to java230:

Yeah, I'm reasonably sure the brake issue is just with the break-away system.

Is the price reasonable? It seems pretty good for here in Atlanta, but I haven't been looking too seriously.

In reply to JohnyHachi6:

If its not, its a huge pain... But hopefully thats it.

Price seems good to me, but the PNW is a totally different market. I dont think I have seen an 8x18 that cheap.

Tires, brakes, bearings. Title.

Enclosed trailers may be the exception, but when it comes to open car haulers I've found that you might as well just buy a new one because they don't depreciate.

It's a pretty good price.

Not a deal killer- but I'd check for 2 or 4 wheel brakes. New laws require 4 wheel (you don't have to upgrade them, but 2 is not enough for a trailer that size).

10,000 GVWR is an odd size. The axles should mean it's a 10,400 GVWR, but sometimes manufacturers de-rate them to 9900, because different licenses are required for 10,000 in some states, but there would be no point in de-rating to 10,000 GVWR.

18' is also a little bit unusual. Enclosed trailers are measured by the square box length (ignoring the hitch and/or V-nose). Sometimes people call 16' trailers 18 footers because they count the hitch. Doesn't really matter if it meets your needs.

Did you check the bearings?

If you are going to install D-rings, make sure they are welded rings and attached (welded) to the frame, not screwed to the floor.