What all would I have to change to do that? Would I need any new fittings or lines?
What all would I have to change to do that? Would I need any new fittings or lines?
OK, I've got the cash and enough minor issues to get the price down a bit...
about that 93 Cobra master cylinder conversion: I need a walkthrough (just in case)
I wanna me a T-Bird TC.
basically you pull the whole teves unit, replace it with a cobra master cylinder and booster, from a 93 cobra mustang. the lines will need new ends, but theres enough material there to cut/bend/reflair. you can't use the current prop valve in the frame, as TC's are factory set up with 3 zones in the ABS, front left, front right, and rear. youll need to merge the front two into one feed line.
-J0N
I can get it for $700, due to the brake issue and some cosmetics, mostly interior being taken apart to remove stereo. All the pieces are still there, just in the rear footwell. No dents, just been skuffed for a recoat of paint.
I would buy the hell out of a $700 TC.
jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: basically you pull the whole teves unit, replace it with a cobra master cylinder and booster, from a 93 cobra mustang. the lines will need new ends, but theres enough material there to cut/bend/reflair. you can't use the current prop valve in the frame, as TC's are factory set up with 3 zones in the ABS, front left, front right, and rear. youll need to merge the front two into one feed line. -J0N
Sounds like what I did with my blue LSC. I didn't realize Turbo Coupes had the Teves system.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/87-lincoln-mark-vii-lsc/54650/page6/
yep. same deal. and yes, i'd totally grab the bitch for $700...
-J0N
I concur, pull the trigger!
Then take lots of pictures and start a build thread! 
^ That is the plan ;)
Car is mine. One Q: on newer cars, you can read the "trouble" lights via plugging into the computer. Is this the same with the 88 TC? If so, would I be able to pinpoint the brake light reason via this method?
The fluid is low, or your emergency brake sensor is thinking the brake is on. Make sure the float in the master isn't stuck. 
^ Thanks, things to check.
I took the car for a spin last night. Got the boost up to 10-12 PSI, seems to work just fine. Brakes most def need looked at. And there's a vibration above 40 MPH. I think that the fact directional Toyos are mismatched in directions (a right and left seem crossed)
The tires being on the wrong side, as well as the vibration and brake issues are going to make me do what I should do anyway... Monday I am putting it up on stands, removing the wheels on all four corners, and do a thorough old school nut-n-bolt check. Just like I used to do a few times a day on every race weekend. This should flush out anything that needs attention, and (if I remember to take pics) be a great jump off point for my Builds and Project Cars thread.
Awesome! Looking forward to the build thread.
Had a bit of a snafu yesterday... seems that a locking lugnut broke way down at the base. Took me a couple hours to drill out the stud, which now I have to replace after work tomorrow... then I can get onto the first mission: make brakes work.
One more little issue I noticed: where is the fuse box on these things???
Drill studs out?!?!?! Hammer and punch them out!
Fuse box is under the dash to the left of the steering column.
or just buy a rotor with new ones, unless the rest of it is already nice.
HAD to drill it out, as you cannot hammer or press a stud out with a lugnut on it. PITA, as the wheel would not come off, stupid brittle chrome locking lug.
Ok... I NEED to know ASAP...
Would absolutely no brake fluid to the rear brakes be an ABS related issue? And would the Mustang Cobra swap fix this? Or is there something else horribly wrong?
Reason is I am working two shifts a day, and the Geeyota's valvetrain is floating around in little bits throughout the valvecover. So, the TC has been pressed into service effective immediately.
No fluid to the rear brakes at all could be an ABS issue. All the fluid runs through the pump and the proportioning block. The rear output might be plugged or have a leak.
So, should I try to pinpoint the issue or do the Cobra swap?
Xceler8x wrote: What's the max boost you can run those Birds to? I think the 2.3 4 cylinder can handle some pretty high boost pressures right?
Friend had one with ~330whp with a rebuilt T3 turbo from a 80s 300ZX and intercooler. I don't recall his boost but there are some epic 2.3l builds out there.
This was when i was in senior year of high school so that's about 13 years ago.
So, instead of ordering the swap over parts today, after work I will disconnect the lines from the proportioning block to see if anything comes out there, then going into it to see if anything is flowing there...
jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: basically you pull the whole teves unit, replace it with a cobra master cylinder and booster, from a 93 cobra mustang. the lines will need new ends, but theres enough material there to cut/bend/reflair. you can't use the current prop valve in the frame, as TC's are factory set up with 3 zones in the ABS, front left, front right, and rear. youll need to merge the front two into one feed line. -J0N
Prop valve in the frame? I thought it was mounted directly to the master cylinder?
And is the Cobra R and SVT the same unit? If not, which one do I need?
Anyone have advice r.e. online parts sources? I am looking for cheap prices and fast delivery. Aren't we all?
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